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Does it make any difference if you raise or lower the front wheel considerably? That is a tell if the float height is off. for example: it bogs out every time the front wheel is down in a hole, float height is likely off. Inspect the reed valves might also be advised, if there is fuel leak down past the reed valves they must not be sealing very well.

I'm having a mare of a time trying to get the carb to stop *issing out petrol that ultimately causes blk oil to leak out of the exhausat header when kicking the bike over! Let me explain the bike was running ok until I switched over to reserve one day , after a few minutes of running it cut out and has not run properly ever since, I thought there was crap in the carb so refuled the bike and clesaned the carb out , a thousand kicks later still no good so cleaned the carb again and then a while later drained some fuel and even with tha fuel filter there was debris in the sample. I traced this back to a damaged fuel filter so replaced it and clenaed carb again abut still no luck , the bike feels like its binding a bit when i kick it over but still get blak crap out of the header. I cleaned the carb and set the float height and also had the choke to pieces but still it does not fire up , cleaned and checked the plug and still nothing. Weeks later I'm wondering if the floatr height is the issue as looking on the net there seems to be conflicting advice on float height , some say 15mm some say 20mm , some say level tangs with float tangs , I'm confused now and wonder if someone with a working techno on a mikuni carb with plastic floats that slide up and down on pins can give me some advice on how to best set the float height please. I like the techno but now this bike is like the Tardis and i'm losing time not getting anywhere. The carb is now off the bike and I can add photos to check the float setting when I've adjusted it correctly just to confirm. TIA

If you bought it through Mid Atlantic Trials, their guy Roger Annable could undoubtedly give you good advice. If you bought elsewhere, it may be an OKO copy, which are pretty useless.

https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/HUA-1003-PWK 28 jet block oring.html

Ive worked on the Sherco version and yes you remove the trials tank and the longride seat/tank unit replaces the tank and sits over the existing seat. So to go from longride to trials you just need the trials tank. Less than a 5 minute job

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone has fitted an OKO 24mm flatslide carb (copy of Kehin PKW) to their TLR? If just fitted one (with a lot of mucking about) pilot is #55, main is #118. Needle on centre groove. Runs ok to mid throttle, then like ***** above that. Just wondering what others have done.

Pictures would really help, otherwise we're just guessing. Every picture I can find of a TRS has the valve stem and rim lock 180° apart.

Can you get a panel beater to plastic weld?

The Montesa Cota 348 Facebook page has lots of 348 documentation available to download, under the Files tab

Try italjet UK spares

If the rim has no rim lock hole it is designed for tubeless. You want a Radial tubeless rear and a tube type front that has a rim lock.

The barrel need a new plating.

To me stock means how they leave the factory, and like 99.99% of all trials bikes across all brands leave the factory, with a conventional front tube. If it does indeed have a tubliss system installed, I can't say for sure as I haven't seen your bike (but it really sounds like it), then imo it's not stock. If you want to think your bike is stock, come on a forum and ask why your front wheel is different than every other trials bike, and still be adamant yours is stock, by all means you are free to do so. It just means every other person who owns a trials bike with a conventional front tube has the non stock option fitted, because yours is the stock option. The stock option of 1 in a 1000

I can't really advise having never owned nor ridden a pre 06 gg, but at the time I remember people saying it made a noticeable difference when the light spring came in 06. There's also the chance someone has fitted the later spring to your 05. As for modifying or replacing the plates I wouldn't be in a rush to do that if the clutch is functioning ok

Ive had both, rebought the older design when they went with formula in 2012 ish, never noticed much difference. Its lies in the toolbox as a spare

I've been looking through the available lit, and searching the forum. I'm still not positive what tires to put on this bike. The giant knobbys have to go. Are the stock rims meant for tubeless tires? Even though this bike is 20 years old, it's light years ahead of my tl125. I've never owned anything this new. Thanks for putting up with these noob questions.

the rear finish plate is cracked on my Italjet Shopping 50, found out the model is niche and there isn’t any research online about it, basically lost to the internet any other enthusiasts with info I would love any info you have I have the original owners manual but it’s in Italian and that doesn’t help with finding parts does anyone know if the parts are interchangeable on any other Italjet scooters for this model

Every new bike came with a nice printed service manual, so you are looking for somebody that owned one since new and still has it.

I hope this helps. https://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=1074

I have an ad somewhere from a 1964 magazine advertising Sprite trials bikes.

Looking for crankshaft specs for spacing and truing. Would like to find service manual. Appreciate any leads.

Just picked up an 88 303. Plan on riding it as a volunter checker @ a local club. It needs some TLC, but that's the fun.

Little work to machine a M9x100 bolt.

The effective length of my lever setup provides very near double the leverage of a "close to the fulcrum point" setup. 105mm vs 55mm. ... just measured it Setup works best for old veteran smashed up arthritic hands. If you experience arm pump you likely need to adjust the start of the clutch lever friction zone even closer to the bars, shown in the picture is ideal such that your finger can curl one knuckle from the bars, like a comfortable trigger.

If the clutch works nice right now, I would modify the lever to address your lever problem. Shorty levers with perches moved way in on the bars and the lever adjusted so your finger can comfortably be at the clutch friction point. You will rarely bend or bust levers in a crash and never crush your grip fingers behind the lever in a fall 🤓 inexpensive modification to try.