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Yes but they have done the research on what works. Its not a TRS kit from what it says. I've emailed them to see if they have the other two parts, spring and friction.

Moto Moto Big and chunky

There are an awful lot of Trials shops all around the world , you probably will find one of them has some old stock sat around.

Did you lubricate the Xiu bearings before fitting them , I mean the bearing races not the bearing housing , Have you seen the Jim Snell video.

@PapaWheelie The video titled 'Jim Snell-USA-GASGAS TRIALS ENGINE REPAIR , PRO KICK-START SYSTEM' that is 11.09 mins long shows very clearly where the kick stop is positioned in various images , starting at 4m 46s. It is clear to me how it should be fitted. Perhaps you are seeing a different video?

Trail , Trial.

Hello everyone! I’d like to share my choice of tyres for the Honda Transalp 750. I used to have a Yamaha FZ6, but I fancied switching to a proper adventure bike. I looked at various options and settled on the Transalp 750 – I’ve always liked it for its balance of power, comfort and capability. I wanted a versatile bike that I could ride comfortably on the motorway for long distances, yet still handle light off-road terrain gravel, forest tracks, and dirt roads without any issues. So I could get out into the countryside, rather than just pottering around town and on the motorway. The Yamaha FZ6 wasn’t comfortable on gravel and dirt: the low ground clearance meant the narrow tyres got stuck, the suspension bottomed out, and the handling became twitchy. Of all the tyres I considered, I went for the Metzeler Karoo STR (Karoo Street) My experience: On tarmac, the tyre performs excellently: it offers good grip on both dry and wet surfaces, and handles corners and high speeds with confidence. It’s slightly noisier than pure road tyres (especially on the motorway), but is perfectly comfortable for its class. In terms of handling and stability, it is one of the strongest options among all-round tyres. On dirt tracks and light off-road terrain, the Karoo STR performs admirably: decent grip on gravel and hard ground, better than that of pure road tyres. The motorbike feels noticeably more confident and stable when leaving the tarmac. However, this is not an aggressive off-road tyre in deep sand or wet mud, it clogs up more quickly and is outperformed by more ‘aggressive’ models. The result is a good balance that suits my riding style perfectly: 70–80% tarmac and 20–30% light off-road. It’s comfortable on the motorway, and when I want to head off-road, the tyres let me do so without any real hassle. What else I considered: The Continental TKC 70 Rocks is an excellent all-round tyre with slightly better off-road capabilities. But I preferred the Karoo STR for its road handling and comfort. The Michelin Anakee Wild is very strong off-road, but for my use (non-extreme off-road) it seemed a bit over the top it wears out faster on the road. Dunlop Trailmax Mission very versatile and durable tyres, with good grip on tarmac. They’re not bad on dirt either, but according to reviews, they sometimes fall short in mud and self-cleaning. Conclusion: Choose tyres strictly according to your riding style. If you need a comfortable option with a focus on tarmac, but with the ability to handle light off-road terrain comfortably the Metzeler Karoo STR will be a good choice for the Transalp 750. I hope my experience proves useful to someone. If you have your own experience with these tyres or any objections, please write in the comments – I’d love to read them! Happy riding to all and have a great season!

140g lighter. thanks to this upper triple clamp. By examining the components of the first-generation of 4RT models, we can see how much Montesa did to offer a 4-stroke with a weight similar to the 2-stroke. Approximately 3.5kg are saved this way. (Frame/wheels/triple clamps, etc.) The handlebars are 5mm further forward and 6mm higher with the 4rt upper triple clamp. So, I swapped the 5" handlebar with the same Renthal 4.5". It's perfect.

I'm working on adapting a Sachs shock absorber. I'm having a rough clevis made, which I'll then machine on a lathe.

I've replaced the broken nylon part with the metal one, but not sure where to position it. I've watched Jim Snell vid (thanks Jim, hope your vids will live forever), but it's still not clear. Anybody here know? After watching the vid, this position looks like what Jim says, but my gut feeling is that it should rest up against the case to help support it. (slightly more clockwise that the attached pic) TIA

Hey Nigel, Tell me you were able to re-assemble and find happiness, as I am EXACTLY where you were at the beginning of Feb. My story is your story, 3 months later. - Daren

Well cash flow issue has finally eased and a trial yesterday had me thinking that I must order a kit. And wouldn't you know it? Out of stock. Hopefully they do another run.

The ID of the flywheels for Sherpa Ts with original points FEMSA ignitions are all the same. The flywheels on different Sherpa Ts are different weights and this is achieved by using different materials for the body of the flywheels. Light ones are cast aluminium and heavy ones are cast zinc. There are quite a few different modern electronic ignitions available to suit the Bultaco Femsa flwheel and some have the stator coil position adjustable to minimise the magnet/winding gap. However I have recently fitted two ignitions from In Motion on Bultacos and neither required any sort of adjustment to work well. i did not measure the magnet to stator coil gap on either. It would help you work out what is going on if you post up the flywheel markings or even a photo of the flywheel. Maybe yours had a different type of flywheel fitted before you got it.

Mickeyg - Not entirely sure what your problem may be but you may have introduced some confusion in the title of your query, and possibly the details you supplied to In.motion ;- model 91 is a 250 Sherpa, 350 would be a model 92 (for bikes of same age and model range.) Femsa original equipment for the two bikes used different weight flywheels, although I had always thought they were similar (identical?) internal diameters. More detail required - pics. possibly ? Ah, I see you refer to Model 92 350 in your very first post............... so which is it ?

Hi everyone I have a question to ask ? Are there different size magneto,flywheels ( internal),I ordered an electronic ignition system from in motion to replace my FEMSA ignition system,I have not been able to ride for 5 years now and wanted to upgrade to make starting easier. On receiving the parts I set about removing and replacing ignition system as directed only to find on trying to start no spark, checked wiring,plug etc,no spark .on removing everything again I looked at the original fitment to flywheel/ magneto to find the electronic system doesn’t fit anywhere near as snugly hence no electrical connection so no spark

EbC ck 1171 friction plates. Plus spring kit from japan.

Thanks guys, I'll take a further look and see what I can find.

Adapter plate to fit XT660 fan on Trialshttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7345885Carb parts organizerhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7345885Sherco silencer caphttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7321067Piston ring compression toolhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7292486

i suspect you might have blown the head gasket when it overheated

IRC still do tubed type tyres with exelent grip

No you're right I never cooked a wet clutch in 60 years. I do have a set of brand new 4RT corks and papers in my toolbox that I never needed.

Lemur, you don’t experience the drag because you are using a similar viscosity to the HTX which works perfectly on a cold engine. If you’ve never experienced the clutch failing due to heat and stress then you haven’t reached the limit. It is a common issue for the expert riders that require the clutch to do more work. Montesa301 has asked why he has a particular problem when the bike is hot using new oil and a new clutch plate kit. This problem is experienced when using particular oils

Keep in mind ATF is considered to be less slippery (has a higher coefficient of friction) compared to industrial machine oil lubricants. What ATF does contain is detergents, friction modifiers, anti-foaming agents and a slew of special chemical additives in ~80% thin machine oil, perfect for a hydraulic torque converter that a 4RT transmission does not have 🤔 If the shifting does get stiff switch to 100% oil. Steel plates should last a lifetime if you never cook the oil in the frictions.

Today I juste replaced the metal plates with Apico and used Valvoline Dexron VI AFT oil and the bike is completely different. The best modif I did!

I don't experience clutch drag on cold startup. 4RT won't start at all if the engine oil is below 0C but the transmission will work just fine at ~-7C right up to as hot as you can stand to be riding it. I do know this, if the clutch makes noise it's time to change the oil and if the old oil comes out opaque or milky, you have lots of water in it. Water swells the cork or paper fibre material in clutch plates.