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You also need to remove the primary drive and the clutch. Basically everything on the primary side. David forgot to mention that. Don`t lose the small washer on the kickstart gear inside the center cases.

did you figure it out? I'm having similar issue with my rear brake on 2017 txt 250. lmk how you did it please. thanks!

I replaced the inside of master cylinder with a new rebuild kit. came with a new spring, I don't know what it's called but the long metal cylinder thing that pushes in and out and finally the circlip, then the rubber boot. everything in there works fine. so when you say better off with clear tube over fender, is it just a long hose connected to the bleeder screw?

I phoned both GasGas main dealers here in the U.K. and they said that since KTM took over the kit comes without the pin. John Lee motorcycles had one left ( MT280218009 ) so I bought that one. The reason for change was a corroded pump drive shaft but the old pin was a very tight interference fit and I thought a new one was a better option than trying to reuse the old pin although it did come out with a bit of heat and not so gentle persuasion !

Don't normally need hot air gun for Bultaco unless someone has used sealant on the centre gasket. gearbox output sprocket and seal spacer cylinder shift drum external mechanism shift drum indexing plunger all the nuts and screws - one screw is tricky to see

Trailercamp the issue you are describing is you had the lever adjustment too far in which stops the piston from traveling its full range. You fixed a 27 yr old problem?

Remove the rear brake pedal comepletely. Use a phillips screw driver to pump it. You are far better off with a clear tube over the rear fender. The air will not move until the fluid is above the master cylinder about 8 inches.

The water pump drive pin is a solid pin, rather than a hollow roll pin. The original GG part number is MT280218009 for the pin, and the original Waterpump shafts were MT280218006 - which was just the shaft with no pin, but then in 2004 GasGas updated the part so it was delivered with the pin, this was then part number MT280418006. So check your invoice, you must have been given one of the old 2002-2003 one without the pin.

Hi, I want to share my experience, it may be of value as our bikes are from the same era. I have a 1998 GG TX270, when bleeding the front brake I found that the passage hole from reservoir to piston of the brake master cyl. was not drilled all the way through at the factory. As the brake pads wore the lever kept moving closer to the handle bar and eventually not applying enough force on the pads to be effective. I assumed air got in the line. In actuality there was no new fluid coming down from the reservoir to take up the fluid volume of the caliper piston pushout. I disassembled the master cyl. and tried to push a needle through the passage assuming it was just plugged. With careful inspection looking in the cylinder I could tell there was no passage hole breaking through. I carefully drilled and deburred a small hole finishing the hole from the factory. perhaps this could be the issue with your clutch master cyl. Of course, I had to do this the night before a trials event. It's always that way. Good luck with yours.

Is it not just a standard spring pin/spring cotter pin, sometimes called a roll pin ? (Hollow tubular pin made from spring steel with a split down its length allowing for it to be a spring fit through the hole in the shaft & gear). If it is then it should be easy to source from an engineers suppliers just by specifying diameter & length. And it’ll be cheaper than the price loaded brand labelled item.

The project continues to move forward very slowly. I made up a little jump loom and fitted it in the Y-piece in place of the FRB. It seems to work but I used a potentiometer with about 3/4 turn from max to min and it is super-sensitive so not useable as it stands. I've got to look again to find a multi-turn pot that is solderable and will package nicely.

I haven't contacted Talon but followed the link from ChrisCH to motorcycleraceparts.

As I cannot see what you are doing I may be wrong but as you describe the problem being that fluid will not push or pull through the system it would seem that the piston in the master cylinder is not against the clip that retains it in the bore and as such is blocking the fluids return to the reservoir. Regards Alan.

Yeah I did some quick calcs and they are very close, equivalent to about 1/2 tooth at the rear. The fact you already know you like the 51 and you aren't shooting in the dark, getting one made is probably the way to go. I take it you've tried contacting talon directly?

I did calculate all the permutations, though I've lost them now. Going up one tooth on the front would also give suitable gearing but space is tight. I think it would fit but it would require the chain to be threaded on to the sprocket rather than just looped on sideways (and turning the sprocket by hand is extremely hard). I'm hoping a custom-made sprocket will be the way to go, which I think will cost about £30-£40 more than an off-the-shelf.

Need to do engine inspection .. advice for splitting crank case . What needs to be removed ? Clutch ,crank weight . Mag off, oil seal carrier . Kick and gear off already hot air gun help?

1. you said check the caliper? did you mean the master cylinder? 3. hose banjo bolt from the master cylinder? I'm trying to bleed my rear brakes on 2017 txt 250 and am frustrated. I tried rebuilding master cylinder. vacuum bleeder on caliper bleeder but doesnt draw any fluid. back bleeding , fluid wont go into bleeder screw, feels like I try to push fluid in but it wont go. next I'm going to try rebuild the caliper. any ideas? thanks!

An original new gear lever.

Just bought the official GG repair kit for a 2012 TXT and was surprised to find that they don’t come with the round pin that connects the shaft to the drive so if you are changing yours make sure you don’t damage the pin when removing it. Rang around and nobody has the pin in stock in the U.K.

Steve Wilson is very active in Facebook.

Question about your new footpegs: are they actually lower as in the product description compared to the OEM pegs? I recently bought a 2024 EVO 250 factory and looking to try slightly lower pegs. Thanks!

I don't have an EM so not sure what the standard front sprocket is but if you run a 10/51, it's virtually identical to 11/55, and I see above 55 is available. 11/51 is also very similar to 12/55. Not ideal, you would probably have to buy another chain aswell as the front sprocket, but an option albeit an expensive one

I bought the first one from Splat Shop. They have been very helpful in trying to find me another, but no success.

Hmmmph The Jitsie site no longer shows the 51T variant. Neither does S3 (don't think they ever did one) I did look when we had the old bike with the smaller chain and remember a 51 in Jitsie for sure. There is a 52T listed. You might have to bite the bullet and get one made. https://www.motorcycleraceparts.co.uk/motorcycle-chains-and-sprockets/bespoke-custom-made-one-off-special-rear-motorcycle-sprockets/