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Sure thing! I also picked up this little beauty the other day! By the way, they both have titles!

Hey guys thanks for your advice. I will split the case before my son takes off and see if I can't get him to bring the parts home with him in mid November. My summer starts soon and I want to be riding asap.

https://trialssuperstore.com/collections/engine/products/gasgas-shift-shaft-center-locator-and-spring This is the first part to check. that little thin piece of metal is designed to shear. The spring is included and zipped tied as it`s hard to install the spring. Its possible to weld this back together, just the spring is hard to deal with. Good luck, it`s probably one of these parts have failed. The top hat is the easiest to fix.

Shaft Shaft MT280238043 https://trialssuperstore.com/products/gasgas-pro-gear-selector-shaft But the shift drum may be damaged as well. Shift Drum MT280238031 https://trialssuperstore.com/products/gasgas-gear-selector-drum I would disassemble and inspect prior to buying any parts. Trials Superstore is only one example vendor. KTM dealers can also sell those parts.

New member. I wish I had found this form years ago. I have a 2012 TXT 250 I ride near every day. Went to town for milk and bread and when I tried to gear down to 3rd it would not click in. I rode home in forth and drained the oil. It was clean. Topped up the gear oil and went for a short ride. 3rd 2nd 1st now work but no 4th or 5th. It's now parked. I'm in Central America. Parts are limited. My son is going to California in a week and thought maybe he can get what I need to fix my gym on wheels. This bike keeps this old man healthy and fit. Any advice much appreciated. I'm thinking this is the problem in the screenshot attached

you mean this is problem or not because i dont uderstand can u help me if u have same problem?

The weld broke on the shift shaft. You need to take the clutch off to get the shaft assembly out.

I have a problem with the gear shifter. When I shift up, it stalls and the shifter gets stuck up and doesn't go down, but from up to down it goes easily. What could be the problem?

hello cona i have the same problem can u tell me how can i changeo or to contact u if its the same problem

If it didn't need the ball bearing then they could have made the rod in one piece, if there was no bearing then the ends of the 2 actuator rods would at the very least be rounded and hardened where they contact each other similar to a valve pushrod end. The ball bearing in theory reduces the friction significantly and only needs to spin at half the rate of the 2 rods, it's actually brilliant to have it in there and would serve no purpose to leave it out. How about measuring the straight rod length and have somebody confirm the straight rod part is original 🤓

The parts list shows one but I don't remember if mine has one. https://www.tytrials.com/trailandtrialsuk/cat_57217-Clutch.html

I just wanted to give a shout-out for Custom Hoses (customhouses.co.uk). I ordered a special brake hose at lunchtime on Friday. It was made on Friday afternoon and delivered by Royal Mail on Saturday morning. No connection except as a very satisfied customer.

Best two trials focused helmets with good venting in my opinion is the Hebo Zone 4 and the AIROH TRR/TRRS. I have both and find them nearly the same over all performance on a hot day if I had to pick one as the best I would lean on the AIROH but only just.

Did this get resolved as I seem to have the same issue

Thanks for that. As I mentioned I added a ball bearing but then the clutch pressure plate did not engage with the central hub. You are right though, every other Yamaha I have owned, and there’s been a few of many types has the ball between the Rod and mushroom. Somethings up that’s for sure

Yup. Cap to stop the lights from flickering. Would also provide starting current for the fan if the lights are all on. The fan needs an instantaneous startup current of about 10 Amps but only for a very brief time. It drops to about an amp when it is in constant operation.

You need the bearing in there because during operation the T shaped shaft spins relative to the straight shaft, the bearing turns that pressure into point loads in the centre of the 2 shafts, without the bearing between them the shafts will experience considerable more friction. Your clutch is out of engagement by the same diameter as the clutch rod 🤓 add a bearing the same diameter as the clutch rods measure and it should work.

Hi. I have an ongoing problem with the clutch on my TY175. In a nutshell when in gear and with the lever in, the clutch is not quite disengaging. There is the correct amount of play at the lever and at the adjuster behind the case on the left hand side. I understand there is a couple of different pushrod options with the TY. Some drawings show a Rod, ball and mushroom and some without the ball bearing. I’ve taken the clutch off and there is no ball bearing. However adding a ball bearing means that the pressure plate sits too high. I'm also led to understand that the washers that sit under the inner and outer baskets are different sizes. Could it be that I have these around the wrong way? If so which one goes where (assuming they are different thickness)? Any advice appreciated as I’ve had this thing apart plenty of times trying to sort it. Thanks

The 4700mF 25V (part# 037.40.022.00.00) capacitor/condenser I made reference to is shown on the homologated version wiring diagram.

This is the engine fitted, the exhaust and carb in place. I found a guy who's got a MAR 350 partially broken in parts in his garage but doesn't seem happy to sell the kickstart lever etc. without the whole engine block. 🤨 I still need the kickstart lever and the 2pins Motoplat coilpack to try to start it... from there I'd at least know for sure the engine works and could start looking for a better clutch cable, rear brake cable, silencer etc.

Thank Konrad. Better presentation than what I had.😃

Hey Tybone, would you be willing to post a photo or two of your TY? I’d love to see it!

Dan, I can add some detail about variable-reluctance pickups. The one shown here is from a Chinese pitbike, but it's representative of what's commonly used. The coil has a DC resistance of 145 ohms. Inductance is 63 mH in air. Inductance is 61 mH when contacting steel. (Both measured at 1 kHz.) The magnet has its North pole facing out. The oscilloscope capture shows the waveform when a block of steel is repeatedly brought into contact with the pickup magnet and withdrawn (by hand). Each positive pulse is contact, each negative pulse is the withdrawal. The waveform is asymmetric because the rate of change in the magnetic flux is faster when making contact (magnet pulls on the steel) than when moving the steel away. EDIT: Just noticed that the scope probe I used did not automatically change the display settings. So the vertical axis is 2 volts per division, not 0.2V per division.