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I just had a thought actually - the tyre has barely been used but it’s been sitting on another rim with no air in it for 15 odd years, the Dunlop was even older. Wondering if actually the tyre is misshapen? The rim looked in good condition. Hoping I can use this tyre as they’ve gone up in price a lot since I last bought one 😂

With more than one tire and re-seating it I would sure think the rim has an issue. Last time I had that issue (08 Gas Gas) myself it was a combination of rim and tire, cleaned up the rim a bit better and change to a new tire and it stopped. Still had some rim-band issues so had to clean it up even more before it was really good but no rim leak after it was all sorted. Good luck.

Hi, My rear tyre leaks air from between the edge of the rim and the tyre itself (not spokes or valve have confirmed in a tub of water). Ive reseated it twice and tried two tyres (very old Dunlop) and an IRC. is there likely an issue with the rim or is there anything else I can try? It gets worse as the pressure goes down I’m this close to going tubed as I’ve got an old rear wheel that does leak through the spokes and this is stopping me riding. New rims are far too expensive vs the value of the bike. cheers

Thought of another thing I will add for completeness. Pure water has the best heat transfer properties, but we typically use antifreeze for a variety of reasons. A 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol / water has very good heat transfer properties. Pure ethylene glycol has quite bad heat transfer properties and why it's not used above 70% concentration. Straight ethylene glycol as coolant would definitely cause the fan to run much sooner than normal.

On my last pair of trials pants I got The Boss to sew a felt patch on the inside of the right leg, by the knee. This stopped the melting. Surprised that the trials pant manufacturers don't do this.

There are other mistakes, it seems like they just cut and pasted info from the TXT manual to Pro manual. Fuel mix says 2% (50:1) the TXT crank bearings were lubricated by the fuel mix but Pro crank bearings are lubricated by the gear oil so you don't need as much in the fuel. Many people on here run between 65:1 or 75:1.

Can old Sherpas be registered for road use in the UK? I guess with frame and chassis numbers a logbook can be requested, I have a lighting coil so could easily fit on a set of high/low front and rear/stop lights. Cant imagine an old Sherpa 250 would be great on the road except for short runs to get to the trails but it would save having to trailer it about. Any thoughts on if you can get them road legal or if it's just daft?

Biggest difference to some people is the kick starter on the opposite side.

Have to balance out financial side too. Up to you if you want to justify paying cash or needing finance, Beta should just need routine servicing TRS depends on how its been maintained and ridden, bearings linkeages etc. Even needing a set of tyres adds up quickly. Some do start on a 300 and cope well.. My brother in law at 63 started on a beta 200, everyone says it's perfect for a new starter.. But he tried my 250 vertigo and loved it so bought it off me. some said it was way too much bike but he did better and has come on quicker on that. Be good if you could try the TRS

That's why there are so many burn marks on the inside right leg of all my riding pants, there is raw flame going through that little single walled header pipe.

Thank you very much for the info, in that case I’ll see what I can do about the financial side as the beta seems to be the logical choice. Didn’t want to rush into buying the 300 (RR model, Raga replica) and then not being able to use it, or dropping it more often than not..:)

I had a 2018 250 trsRR, very nice bike, more "snappy" than 250 beta but v nice bike to ride, great brakes and suspension. Felt very p!anted, tried a 300, tons of lovely low end torque and great for an expert but it would of easily got away from me. Is the one you're looking at a RR or a one. You could also look at adding a base gasket. Side by side if they were same price/condition the beta would get most peoples recommendation in your situation. Sometimes you don't have the luxury of buying the perfect bike, but if you plan on keeping it long term then the newer beta also makes sense.. It will always be able to do anything you want it too, extra spec of factory model is a bonus

The exhaust system of all 4-strokes runs much hotter than 2-strokes. I did very few mods to my 4RT, but one was applying “header wrap” to the exhaust system between the heat shield and muffler to prevent melting nylon riding pants. As suggested, checking the oil and coolant levels is a good idea. Also check for a blockage in the radiator: mud, collapsed fins, etc. How soon the fan turns on depends on engine load and airflow through the rad. For a given ambient temperature, high load and slow ground speed turns the fan on quicker than light load and a lot of airflow. The bike is new to you, but how new is the bike? Due to friction, the entire engine will dissipate more heat during the break-in period than afterwards. Scariest of all, it's possible you may have a mis-drilled oiling system. See: https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/78761-montesa-4-ride-oil-filtration-issues/

Are you in North America?

Thanks Konrad / Lemur, Noted on your points... I had already checked similar bikes being sold locally (South London area), and as you said there isn't much more to go off of after that other than the bikes condition... Luckily the owner currently has the entire bikes worth in spare/ new parts including a clutch and forks which he is also throwing in. Appreciate your responses! Hopefully I'll make a deal on it soon.

Thanks for your suggestions. Oil level looks ok could probably do with a change but that’s all. Will also check coolant level as i haven’t checked that recently

With that number, it started out as an A model TY250. Hard to say more without photos

If price wasn’t an issue, I wouldn’t even have opened the topic I was basically curious whether the fact that the beta is a new bike, worth the extra cost or since the trs seems to be a fair deal for 3000€ (maybe can negotiate a slightly lower price), would I be able to start on it with slow throttle, etc? So far it seems that you guys are pushing me towards the beta 🙂 Some background, not too much off road experience, but riding bikes since I was 12, now I’m 42. Worked as a motorbike courier and for 6 years as an instructor.

Wouldn't recommend the 300 as a starter bike.250 beta perfect in terms of power delivery. Factory has better brakes/suspension. I would recommend making sure it has a black tube slow throttle under the grip. The TRS is a lovely bike but the 300 is a lot more "feisty"

I know my 4RT exhaust gets hot a lot faster than all of the 2t bikes I have owned but I don't think I have ever checked how quick so can't say if its seconds after startup or not. Other than a very hot day I don't think the fan starts up as fast as your indicating yours is doing. Have you checked the coolant level to be sure you are not running a bit low? Also make sure the engine oil level is good as low oil can also contribute to running a bit hot. I have a busy week so will not be running the bike tell Saturday but I will try and remember to check the thread to see if you have a better answer before I ride as well as try and remember to keep an eye on how soon and how hot it seems to get for comparison. Here is to the hope someone else can chime in and confirm with a better response before then.

I have a Ty 250 serial number 434-007144 it has chrome fenders and chrome rear rack. Anyone know anything about it?

In the link you posted it says upper adjustment of the right leg is rebound...like in the old manuals ( Before 2021 ).

Thank you mate. Read a lot on both bikes, what I understood is that both are reliable bikes, but my concern is more the power and the previous owner of the trs.