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Hi, I have a 1 year old 4rt which I’ve owned since new without any issue. Today the kill switch has stopped working (bike still runs when the magnet is removed) and the fan runs permanently even from a cold start. The bike works perfectly otherwise. Anyone have any ideas?

SlowDave, I recently bought '74 TY250 which probably has a top candidate for "Ugliest Seat In The World" type of seat. Has a home made seat base of plywood on the flat portion, and some sorta plastic for the part that molds/curves over the rear fender/seat pan hump at the back of the seat. I'm kinda fortunate in that my bike's yellow fiberglass seat pan is actually in decent shape, but with some very funky mounts from the seat pan to the upper/inner rear shock mount. These will reqire some mild "engineering" and fab work, as decent used parts are tough to come by, as you know. I have had no luck finding very many parts here locally in the NW part of Oregon. One Vintage parts dealer in Portland tells me the fiberglass pan and the seat are among the first thing he sells when he gets a TY in........ I don't know how YOU plan to use a rear seat on YOUR bike, regarding whether you mostly stand while riding, or plan on sitting a lot while, say, trail riding. That would probably determine just how good of a seat you'll need. Mine will be a minimalist type of seat, since 1), I mostly stand while riding anyway, and 2), my last modern trials bike had no seat, so that's what I'm used to......... I've decided to make my own seat base from sheet thermoplastic. I'm still in the "Research Phase" of this, but it seems "doable". I watched a youtube video of a guy that did this for a road bike, which was helpful. Our seats have what is a fairly simple base. Mostly flat, with an angled portion that molds over part of the seat pan. Heat a sheet of thermoplastic cut just slightly larger than what is needed in an oven at 325-350 degrees, and place it on the fiberglass pan to form to the seat's base. Wear gloves for this. If any parts of the thermoplastic cool too quickly to form correctly, a heat gun will give enough heat to form as needed. It will need to be trimmed a bit after it's formed and cooled. A bandsaw will be helpful for that, but a handheld jigsaw will work also. This stuff can be heated, formed and cooled, and reheated several times. A fairly understanding wife may be necessary to heat plastic in the oven, so the heat gun might be the best way to do the whole enchilada. I've heated and formed a part for the airbox on my pukey little '92 Suzuki DR200 (needed this after a carb swap), and made several holsters for my handguns with this stuff. This plastic can be cut, drilled, sanded, and etc.. It's not too hard to work with. I've found seat material/fabric at Guts Racing and Parts Unlimited (some fabric called "Texhide", which I know nothing about, but is cheaper than what's available at Guts Racing...... ) for the cover itself. I still need to find some suitable foam. Assembly will, hopefully, consist of stretching the seat fabric over the foam, folding it under the base, and stapling it similar to how other dirt bike's seats get re-covered. Anyway, that's my plan for my bike's seat, for now. I should have some time to start on it in a few weeks, and hopefully will be able to report on any progress I may have made on the deal, if anyone is interested. Wish we didn't have to jump through these kinda hoops for parts for our bikes, but that's part of the charm, I'm told....... Hope this might help some, or at least give some ideas and options! Jimmie Added in EDIT: A link to the video of making a seat base I mentioned above:

New bushings need to be modified but after that, it is perfect. Exit the old rusty tubes.

Welcome to the site in sunny GREAT BRITAIN , AKA ,The UNITED KINGDOM.

Hey Tim, Welcome aboard from NorCal.

RAL 1002 from Sprido 2K

Hi, My name is Tim. I live in Los Angeles. I just bought my first bike since buying my 1975 Kawasaki MC-1 90, when I was 14 (I got into cars since). I'm 64 now. I just bought a mint 400 original-mile 1987 Honda TLR200. It just arrived. Waiting for helmet in the post and I'll be riding again. After waiting 60-years, what's a few more days? lol. Exciting!

Without actually seeing what everything looks like in your build it would be difficult to say , perhaps if you took photos of all the parts as they are ready to be assembled and up load on here , then it may become clear what the cause is.

@Nigel_Mercer I guess that some one put the wrong numbers into the machine on the batch you bought and they somehow ended up for sale.

So a quick update on this. I discovered thankfully that the source of the oil leak was not the seal on the flywheel side bearing, it was a bad copper washer on the case bolt. Easily solved. However, the tight mains are noisy. They shouldnt be of course, but I think I have figured out why. The chamfer on the inner race where they butt up against the crank is very small. MUCH smaller than the chamfer found on the OEM bearings. I was kindly sent pictures showing the difference in the chamfers (not having any of these available anymore). The XIU bearing chamfer is far too small in my opinion. What ends up happening is that the mains cannot get as close to the crank webs as they should. The wafer thin center gasket doesnt help. If they has used a normal thickness gasket, this wouldnt be an issue. So the whole lot ends up very tight and puts a lateral load on those mains which in my case is causing them to be noisy. I am expecting them to fail at some point and when that happens, I will be going back to the old style bearings for sure. The XIU's are way too tight prior to installation anyway. Even my supplier was shocked at how tight they were.

Looking for some advice please. I've striped my daughters txt125 07 engine to replace all the bearings, I've come to close casing up but as soon as I get them approximately 5mm or less from closed together the gearbox locks up, I've been through the gearbox diagrams multiple times and everything look right and turns freely prior to that last few mm. The only thing that looks odd to me is the way the clutch shaft butt's up against the casing needle bearing without a washer, up there wasn't one in there and there's non in the diagrams, any advice would be appreciated.

Steering bearings, wheels bearings, o-rings, bolts & nuts, fork gaskets and new tubes, 2k spray paint, spokes, exhaust, clutch & throttle cables, handlebar, grips, kickstart axle ...

I lightly touched up the bead ID as per feetupfun's suggestion, and used self tapping screws instead of rimlocks. After several rides it's still firmly in place 😄. When this tyre wears out I'll replace the rim with a tubeless type; I imagine the options for tubed tyres will dwindle even more in the future. Thanks for everyones help!

Custom sprockets: https://www.rebelgears.com/ https://www.supersprox.com/supersprox-custom/

Look on eBay for a sprocket blank you find the number of teeth and pitch but they normally have a small centre hole then get it machined out to suit your hub

Hi All, I am in need of a new alloy ( if possible ) rear sprocket for my 1969 AJS 37AT that I am busy building. I have attached a sketch of what I need. If I can get only get one that is close, then I am sure I can modify it to suit. The existing sprocket has been made from two steel sprockets and weighs the same as a baby hippo !! Has anyone had a bespoke sprocket made, and if so, where. Or can anyone point me in the right direction. Thks Bruce Watts AJS 37A Rear Sprocket.pdf

Have it re-anodized because they didn't do a good enough job the first time. Not just a 4RT problem, it can happen on any alloy rim when quality control lets something slide, such as on the pink rims that were suppose to be anodize red.

Simple green is NOT safe on anodized aluminum. It is too alkaline. Just Google the question and you’ll see. I once used it on a red anodized cassette on a bike and it faded it considerably.

I use Simple Green on everything. "has a mildly alkaline pH of 8.5 to 9.5." Can that corrode anodize? I have not seen this on other bikes.

As standard, parts book lists 4 studs with nuts, 4 bolts (2 different lengths). There is an increased possibility of stripped threads in the cylinder casting with bolts, maybe,

On the anodisation? What cleaner do you use? Sounds like oxidation. Id try some t-cut, cleaner wax doesn't have much abrasive in it

Could try a maroon scotch brite pad

Just buy a new rim and get the wheel rebuilt, Its the only way its going to be great again.

There is some kind of white residue primarily on the front wheel of my 2018. It looks sort of like mineral deposits from where water dried. Detergent, Isopropyl alcohol and acetone do not remove it. A carnauba cleaner wax removes some but is way too much work for old hands. The rag with cleaner turns black so maybe it is some kind of oxidation. Is there an easy way to remove it?

Failing to see how that could possibly work, to start with the coating is on the outside surface so this bushing is designed to slide against the lower leg bore and that would make it attached to the stanchion tube. Any reason nobody ever shows the stanchion tube?