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Hi guys, how do I remover the black plastic inlet fitting from a grimeca rear master cylinder? I'm rebuild it and I think there may be a leak from it. Thanks

24’ mc 250. Bike ran fine last time i rode it, pressure washed it and now when the bike is off the fi light is on and solid along with the hour meter (hour meter runs if I don’t disconnect battery). Every 2 minutes or so while the bike is off and lights are on, it sounds like the fuel pump starts up for a second then will do it again in another 2 minutes.But the bike starts and runs fine. Only an issue when it’s off and sitting. Anyone ever have this happen? Any tips ?

I find this counterintuitive, but if you blip the throttle, the clutch will release better. I've only ever noticed this on trials bikes. If anyone has an explanation or theory, I'd love to hear it. I've also found that dimpling the clutch steel plates has a very positive effect on clutch release. But this is a well-know trick, that I probably first saw on circa 1970s Suzuki OE plates.

Hi I reverse bled the clutch however it still surges a bit when I select a gear although I find it weird that with the engine running in gear and the clutch pulled fully I can push the bike forward and back but if I stop the engine it won’t freewheel

Here are some footpegs that i cobbled together. They are crude and heavy but allow me to try different peg placement, they are about 1/2 inch (12-13mm) forward and lowered the same amount. I also did away with the forward slant of the stock pegs. They are much more conducive to sitting on the seat and transitioning between sitting and standing, they affect ground clearance very little. They are a big improvement for me, I hope to have a nicer set made, I'm happy with the forward position but I'd like them another 5-8mm lower.

I think you have only one choice nowadays that is the set made by SURFLEX approx £130.00 from a Trials specialist.

Hi all, I have a pair of TY250 mono forks model 38V, but the left fork leg doesn’t have a thread cut into it for the axle bolt, the plain hole is small enough diameter to tap a thread into. I’m just wondering why it wouldn’t have had the thread in it already?. Has anyone come across this before? thanks

IP booking now open. https://experience.inchperfecttrials.co.uk/em-test-ride-selby-trials-park-wimborne-dorset-bh21-3qz/ Don't forget to bring your bike and have a ride with us as well.

'98 TX270 purchase last week. I removed the clutch cover to add oil and found the fiber squeezing out the side of the pressure plate. Remove the pressure plate and found the fiber in four pieces. Any aftermarket brands recommended for this model? I'll begin my Google search after posting. Thank you all in advance!

Hi thank you I will have a look again tomorrow, when I pull the lever I would estimate the salve cylinder is moving 3-4mm

Something is wrong with your clutch mastercylinder or the slave or the hose has a hole in it. If your standard clutch isn't working then putting a new clutch in it is very unlikely to rectify that. https://youtu.be/hdHmiNNgL2I?si=SQVmrH_Ud1a_

So tonight I bled the clutch to no avail I am now thinking I will put a new clutch in it I will order the clutch tool, total pain in the a*** especially as the bike has very low hours that’s why I bought it as it looked like it had just come out of the showroom.

97 octane

again that's not unusual, give the bike time to warm up, I don't attempt to put my 4RT into gear before the fan kicks in, this also helps keep the ECU in check I believe but I don't know why.... I don't think your clutch will need re-bleeding some people get on their bike & push off gently before putting it into gear & this frees off the clutch bit this has never been a problem for me hope this helps

Hi, thanks for all the responses, Tonight I have refilled with elf gearbox oil and adjusted the lever however when I select a gear from neutral the bike jerks forward also I can’t push it while in gear with the clutch pulled. Next step for me is a clutch bleed if that doesn’t solve it I might look at a new Mitani clutch.

We have a 300 Beta Evo and it’s too much bike for my talent! On the other hand, I have an older Beta Rev3 250, lovely bike to ride.

I’ve fitted the dimpled apico clutch plates on my 4RT & along with the elf oil my clutch is nice & progressive neutral is still hard to find but in my experience all the modern trials bikes I’ve owned are the same

Our local club put on a demo at the Canadian Vintage Motorcycle Group rally in Paris, Ontario. I took a POV lap of the demo setup aboard my TY175, and was a ton of fun! The second video is another perspective taken by another club member showing the excellent riding by the other club members. Enjoy!

I used a hand pump to pull the gas out. When leaning left on the stand some gas leaked when removing the petcock but not a large amount. I was then able to lean it right to get most of the gas into a funnel. The back part of the little black plastic lever had broken so was non functional. The parts list just shows the entire petcock assembly which is not cheap. Is the little lever available somewhere, maybe in a rebuild kit? This would be a really annoying failure mode to happen if you show up to a trial and need to manually get gas to the carb.

Ignition coil will be under the seat next to the throttle body , that is where mine is.

Clutch adjustment on both of the Montesa's I have 2007 and 2017 have just enough clutch drag even when I adjust the levers to my preference when riding are hard to shift into neutral for me ELF oil helps as well but still can be a bit hard to find. Good luck.

Trials bikes are normally fairly difficult to change into neutral, I normally just turn my bike off then put it into neutral. On the odd occasion you can knock it into neutral with it running but its certainly not really easy.

Thank you all, this advice is exactly what I was hoping for. I’ll continue to look at 250 and maybe a Beta 300. Still very much a beginner so keen to enjoy it rather than ruin it for myself or risk wasting money. thanks all!