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Hi What are the differences between a 1982 Fantic 125 and a 240. Is the frame etc the same with just the capacity increase ? thank you

Hi can someone advise on the correct chain tension and what is the correct rear wheel nut torque (possibly 60NM) ? Also I’ve just replaced the chain tensioner bush which had worn where the chain had rubbed. After refitting chain it looks like it might still rub on the new one, is this normal ? thanks

This video will show you where the oil filler port is. You have the “older” clutch cover described in the video. At least I think it will. https://youtu.be/SKPCCsKOgr4?si=zsZasnYuUxNHTCfD

Hello, I have a gas gas 321 txt and unsure of the year, either a 98 or 99? Im wanting to do an oil change however can’t seem to find a fill port? Iv seen the drain plug underneath in the bash plate hole, however can’t seem to find a fill port? Looking on forums eveyone seems to say it’s behind the kick start with an Allen key nut however mine does not seem to have that?? picture below for guidence, any help would be appreciated. cheers

My dad is looking for a Bultaco Sherpa Trials 125 cc, engine number VM18501877-A 1977 barrel and piston and the piston is 55 mil can you advise how I help him find please

Thank both of you guys, you have put my mind to rest. A few people have told me the clicking is something to do with the chain or sprockets so I will try get replacements tomorrow and update if this fixes it. As for the whine i will take it thats me being paranoid. I have changed the oil and there was a little sludge but nothing I believe to be concerning. I guess when I buy new to me things Im just so scared that something will be wrong with it that I look for things that aren’t there. Ive made a few bad purchases that put me into that mindset, plus I sort of bought the bike without test riding it due to not being in an appropriate place for it so that didn’t help. But thank you again it’s much appreciated

Good outcome. I suggest you re-torque the cylinder hold-down nuts after a couple of heat cycles. There's a good chance of generating another base gasket leak unless this is done.

The clicking sound is not normal. But it seems the repetition rate is too slow to be something in the gearbox. I'd look for something external like Zippy's problem first. Inspecting the drain oil is a good idea, but knowing the true history of the bike is more valuable. Did the prior owner sell because there was debris in the drain oil? Is there a chipped tooth somewhere? Out of curiosity, I looked for gearbox parts. It appears KTM is good about making GG parts available. You can buy individual gears and even a complete transmission assembly (MT40000CT-CSV-1) for $840 USD. https://trialssuperstore.com/products/gasgas-transmission-complete-19

Minus the clicking, that sounds normal to me

2021 Sherco ty 125f Adventure. This bike is fitted as standard with a Jianshe Yamaha TTR 125 engine, made in China. I had serious issues with the kickstart and gearbox mechanisms, so I have now replaced the entire bottom end (apart from the flywheel, stator and flywheel housing) with the complete bottom end from a Japanese made 2006 YBR 125. I retained the up-rated 150cc barrel and piston. I also kept the complete Jianshe-Yamaha head. I can detect no difference in performance between the two motors. Differences include: the two stators are different. The old flywheel is 300g heavier than the new one. The crank shaft cam chain sprocket on the old motor has one tooth less (or more) than the new one. They are not compatible, so you have to change BOTH for one or the other (the ratios remain the same).

It may be nothing and just me being paranoid then, I’ll include a link to another video I have taken and if that doesn’t help I’ll try get one like you requested. Thank you for your help though You can hear a kind of meshing noise on deceleration, as I say though it could be normal

I could not tell much from listening to your video at 1x, 0.75x, and 0.5x speed. I think a better diagnostic would be to video the bike running on a stand in 4th (probably would have to load the motor by using the back brake) and slowly letting it rev. Note that both 1st gear and 4th gear use three gear-pairs to transmit power though the box. So the whine should be similar for 1st and 4th. There is a large ratio change between 4th and 5th, and this will make a clunk and not be smooth. The farther apart the ratios are, the more pronounced this will be.

Check your rear wheel bearings for play. I was in an event and had a horrible clicking noise, so much I thought something was wrong in the clutch / transmission. I went so far as to pull the clutch cover off in the paddock to investigate. I found nothing, DNF the event. later discovered the rear wheel bearings were sloppy as all hell and was causing the rear sprocket to move out of alignment enough that the chain would "click" off the edge of the sprocket. I couldn't really hear the whine, so I would say it's probably normal. I can't remember if you state you changed gearbox oil or not, watch for tremendous amount of metal shavings or chunks on the drain magnet. Some small gook type build up is normal.

Hi again, after stripping head and barrel I discovered back two barrel bolts were able to be loosened by hand and a very thin and compromised base gasket. Manufactured a nice thicker new gasket, reassembled and torqued everything to spec and started 2nd kick and after warm up idled nicely, Hopefully bullet dodged. Cheers Rob.

Hi, sorry about the jumping between posts I’ll try keep it on this one now, I’ve uploaded a video to YouTube in case you or anybody with either a similar issue or similar experience can listen to. Thanks in advance to anyone who gives it a listen and helps and hopefully this helps you too if you’re here for answers 🙂 hopefully it works. I should mention I’ve been told the clicking is a worn chain or sprockets so replacing the lot.

It may not exactly sound like it’s going to blow up, but it is very whiny. I would include a video but cannot post iPhone videos. I can hear it whine when in 4th but 5 and 6 are fine I believe however the change up is clunky 4/5 I put it on “trials bikes uk” Facebook group on Sunday afternoon and the general idea is that it’s normal anyway

At first, I was going to say the "assembly" number is the service limit. But viewing that table in the context of the other displacements, it makes no sense at all. It's a horrible table!

Thanks for the feedback. It's been both enjoyable and annoying at the same time. Not sure if I'll do another that needs quite so much work. 👍

that looks a nice job, well done.

I was curious so looked at the manual. It looks like the minimum piston clearance for the 250 is 0.050 and the maximum is 0.080. What is the 0.100 "Assembly" number?

Just thought I'd share a few photos of my 349. Just needs a couple of tweaks to get the gear change sorted and rear brake adjustment. Then get it registered. It's only taken 15 or so years!

wix-one... I have an ePure Race with a similar noise.....Did you ever resolve this issue?

I had a "Goldfinger Sprite" and the pictures shown here are just the standard 125cc Sprite. The Goldfinger had a deep glitter gold fibre glass tank, gold painted frame and the Sach's Sunburst engine with the large radial fins on the head and barrel. It was a brilliant little bike, light as a feather and quite responsive. I have been looking for one for years but they are like Hobby Horse pooh.

Paint shops can usually match a colour by scanning what you are wanting to match

Hi all, Beta Evo 2009 250 2T owner, but too many pies mean I am about 100kg. The shock is almost bottomed out with my weight on it, maybe at 16 years old the spring is tired, as well as being too light for me. I think I can get a 'heavy duty' spring new for around £90, but these are stated as being for 80kg riders. Can anyone recommend what I need, and where from? Ideally... has anyone got a second hand heavy spring I could buy? I am in Scotland by the way - but happy to pay shipping.