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I’ve heard good things from all of them except the Heidenau. Heidenau makes tires for older or vintage bikes and have a good reputation but not so much for their trial tires. I’m also pretty sure you’re running a tubeless tire on the back and, I believe, Heidenau only makes tube tires. If cost is an issue I’d go with the IRC because they’re much less expensive and many reports rave about them and say they do everything a trial tire needs to. That’s (IRC T-R-11) what I’m getting next. The difference between the Michelin tires and Dunlops is like spitting hairs. They all have excellent reputations. The Dunlop TL01 is their newest version. The difference between them are in how soft the tread is, weight and sidewall stiffness. The differences are minimal, however. You’ll need to decide which will work best for where you ride and style of riding. Mitas has a new version of trials tire that I’d like to try, but they’re not available near me. This new version is reputed to be a big step up from their older version. Who knows if it’s true though?

Dunlop is good...! , but i love Michelin X-licht rear...

Sorry, no specify knowledge. But in general, if you raise the rear, the bike will turn sharper and be more reluctant to wheelie. I took a look at the Rock Shocks website. Seems like an excellent choice. I like the fact you can buy rebuild parts.

The last rear tire I bought for my 2015 Sherco was a Dunlop 803 GP rear and I still run the original Michelin front, it's time to refresh them. Here is a list of what's avalable in the area : Rear Dunlop K950, Geomax TL01 and D803GP - Michelin Comp - IRC TR-11. Front Michelin Light and Heidenau K67 ( never heard of that ). What is your experience

Thanks Konrad I’ve decided to go with the HFS and Rock shocks Perhaps you might know? I’ve read somewhere that 400mm are a well known mod for the Fantic 200 shocks instead of the usual 350mm Have you come across this mod and is there really any benefit apart from a smidge in ground clearance?

Good quality gear oil to suit a trials bike. Moving the lever location on the bars so you are pulling further out on the lever. Depending on how low low hours is 2017 is also old enough you might want to consider filing any ridges that exist in the clutch basket tabs from wear with the clutch plates.

Hello friends. I recently purchased a 2017 Evo 300 with low hours. I love the bike but would like better slippage on the clutch. It does slip but is mostly on/off engagement. I’m new to Trials bikes. Is there an adjustment for this? Thanks for your help.

Glad you found it helpful. I should also mention something about all emulators that may not be readily apparent. 1. You must enlarge the compression hole in the damper rod enough that it's no longer an effective restriction. The emulator then controls the compression-damping orifice. If you ever want to remove the emulator, that enlarged hole must be welded or brazed and re-drilled to its original size. 2. The emulator sits on top of the damper rod. It must be removed from the fork to make any adjustments.

Id check all your engine bolts are tight and not loose. The bottom engine mount was kind of prone to breaking on those magnesium casings. Im not aiming to scare you, just a word of warning.

Thanks Konrad being new to trials, twinshock mods can be a minefield

How much do these links raise the bike? Does it provide a softer ride? The H&D description is hard to interpret. I'm not a trick rider but would like something more compliant so easier on an old body. The Montesa rear suspension also feels quite dead compared to my Beta 4T. "uprates the soft rear end and aids the ability to 'trick' ride and hop around the rear end by providing an even more progressive shock."

I have experience with YSS emulators. They provide the same benefits as Race Tech's emulators -- variable compression damping. I was unfamiliar with HFS Expert, and had to do a search. https://suspensionhfs.com/en/ https://suspensionhfs.com/en/ This appears to offer the benefits of a modern cartridge fork, which is a huge advantage over damper-rod forks. I would not hesitate to try them. Being 155 pound in your riding gear means you will want their light springs. (I'm about the same weight.) If you go with YSS emulators, you will still need to source softer fork springs. Whatever you choose for the rear, make sure there are springs available for your weight -- especially if you have softer than standard springs in front.

Hi guys could do with some opinions please. Over the last few years I’ve lost abit of weight and fitness, im now 155 with kit on. It’s got it’s downsides this getting old malarkey Anyhow, I’ve decided I’m going to go full on with a refurb starting with the suspension F/R on my Fantic 200 So opinions please on … Front - HFS Expert or YSS Emulators Rear - Falcon or Rock Shocks Or feel free to say if you think there are better options?

Are we going to get an early water cooled class in EVT?

Took the Climber to our vintage trials last weekend. Worked great 👍 Fun bike!

Nice looking bike!

thanks it was spark plug indeed!

Hello everyone, My name is Eddie and I just picked up my first trials bike. I live in Denver, Colorado. Have experience riding a KTM 300 on mountain and desert singletrack, but never ridden trials before. Excited to get started! If anyone wants to show a newbie the ropes or suggest places to ride, let me know!

Spark plug

my gasgas 300 txt developed hiccups while on throttle, idle is fine where to look first?

Thanks so much! I was happy to have found them both. They are very original machines that have not been abused. Well, not yet

Restoring my one owner 1976 TY175C Yamaha purchased in Japan. I am installing a new piston & rings tomorrow. 80% done

I love all three of your beauties! Your TY looks fantastic (so does the Honda), it still has the tail and headlight on it along with the original plastics. Plus, I can see that awesome, pristine saddle you didn’t know you had. Thanks so much for the photos!

Hey gasaxe You DO NOT need to split the cases. You do not need to remove the engine. You can check, and fix, this quite easily with just the removal of the clutch side cover and the clutch pack. Under the clutch pack you will see were the shift shaft comes right through into the clutch case. On the end of it you will find a top hat shaped piece and spring (see link below for image) https://www.thehellteam.com/gearbox-selector-spring-assy It is more than likely this is the only piece that will need replacing, but even if the shaft is damaged (less likely) from 2012 GG made the bikes so the shaft could be removed with the removal of a small retaining screw and washer, and the hole thing can be wiggled out the right hand side. If you are stuck please feel free to PM or email me for help. Paul. The Hell Team

Sure thing! I also picked up this little beauty the other day! By the way, they both have titles!