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Biggest difference to some people is the kick starter on the opposite side.

Have to balance out financial side too. Up to you if you want to justify paying cash or needing finance, Beta should just need routine servicing TRS depends on how its been maintained and ridden, bearings linkeages etc. Even needing a set of tyres adds up quickly. Some do start on a 300 and cope well.. My brother in law at 63 started on a beta 200, everyone says it's perfect for a new starter.. But he tried my 250 vertigo and loved it so bought it off me. some said it was way too much bike but he did better and has come on quicker on that. Be good if you could try the TRS

That's why there are so many burn marks on the inside right leg of all my riding pants, there is raw flame going through that little single walled header pipe.

Thank you very much for the info, in that case I’ll see what I can do about the financial side as the beta seems to be the logical choice. Didn’t want to rush into buying the 300 (RR model, Raga replica) and then not being able to use it, or dropping it more often than not..:)

I had a 2018 250 trsRR, very nice bike, more "snappy" than 250 beta but v nice bike to ride, great brakes and suspension. Felt very p!anted, tried a 300, tons of lovely low end torque and great for an expert but it would of easily got away from me. Is the one you're looking at a RR or a one. You could also look at adding a base gasket. Side by side if they were same price/condition the beta would get most peoples recommendation in your situation. Sometimes you don't have the luxury of buying the perfect bike, but if you plan on keeping it long term then the newer beta also makes sense.. It will always be able to do anything you want it too, extra spec of factory model is a bonus

The exhaust system of all 4-strokes runs much hotter than 2-strokes. I did very few mods to my 4RT, but one was applying “header wrap” to the exhaust system between the heat shield and muffler to prevent melting nylon riding pants. As suggested, checking the oil and coolant levels is a good idea. Also check for a blockage in the radiator: mud, collapsed fins, etc. How soon the fan turns on depends on engine load and airflow through the rad. For a given ambient temperature, high load and slow ground speed turns the fan on quicker than light load and a lot of airflow. The bike is new to you, but how new is the bike? Due to friction, the entire engine will dissipate more heat during the break-in period than afterwards. Scariest of all, it's possible you may have a mis-drilled oiling system. See: https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/78761-montesa-4-ride-oil-filtration-issues/

Are you in North America?

Thanks Konrad / Lemur, Noted on your points... I had already checked similar bikes being sold locally (South London area), and as you said there isn't much more to go off of after that other than the bikes condition... Luckily the owner currently has the entire bikes worth in spare/ new parts including a clutch and forks which he is also throwing in. Appreciate your responses! Hopefully I'll make a deal on it soon.

Thanks for your suggestions. Oil level looks ok could probably do with a change but that’s all. Will also check coolant level as i haven’t checked that recently

With that number, it started out as an A model TY250. Hard to say more without photos

If price wasn’t an issue, I wouldn’t even have opened the topic I was basically curious whether the fact that the beta is a new bike, worth the extra cost or since the trs seems to be a fair deal for 3000€ (maybe can negotiate a slightly lower price), would I be able to start on it with slow throttle, etc? So far it seems that you guys are pushing me towards the beta 🙂 Some background, not too much off road experience, but riding bikes since I was 12, now I’m 42. Worked as a motorbike courier and for 6 years as an instructor.

Wouldn't recommend the 300 as a starter bike.250 beta perfect in terms of power delivery. Factory has better brakes/suspension. I would recommend making sure it has a black tube slow throttle under the grip. The TRS is a lovely bike but the 300 is a lot more "feisty"

I know my 4RT exhaust gets hot a lot faster than all of the 2t bikes I have owned but I don't think I have ever checked how quick so can't say if its seconds after startup or not. Other than a very hot day I don't think the fan starts up as fast as your indicating yours is doing. Have you checked the coolant level to be sure you are not running a bit low? Also make sure the engine oil level is good as low oil can also contribute to running a bit hot. I have a busy week so will not be running the bike tell Saturday but I will try and remember to check the thread to see if you have a better answer before I ride as well as try and remember to keep an eye on how soon and how hot it seems to get for comparison. Here is to the hope someone else can chime in and confirm with a better response before then.

I have a Ty 250 serial number 434-007144 it has chrome fenders and chrome rear rack. Anyone know anything about it?

In the link you posted it says upper adjustment of the right leg is rebound...like in the old manuals ( Before 2021 ).

Thank you mate. Read a lot on both bikes, what I understood is that both are reliable bikes, but my concern is more the power and the previous owner of the trs.

Hi all, I have just noticed how hot my exhaust / manifold gets seconds after startup. The bike idles well and doesn’t seem to be missing a beat. Not sure if that’s how 4 stokes are after coming from 2t Following this…. The fan on my 4rt starts up within 1-2 minutes of riding. Not sure if this is correct or it’s getting too hot too quickly, any closure would be appreciated. Also i ride in the uk so very hot weather is not the issue before someone comments that 😂🤣

The 250 Beta is a very mellow machine. Much better first bike than the 300 TRS. The bike in the best condition is usually the better buy no matter the price. It will last longer and you will be riding instead of waiting for parts.

Can you post a picture of the part you need?

Hi guys, I would like to buy my first trials bike, but here (in Malta) we are not spoilt for choice, basically there’s 3 second hand trials bikes for sale on the whole island. One is beaten up, the other two are the beta evo 250 factory with 4-5 hours on it (!) practically new, the other one is the trs 300r 2018 model, used by a local competitor guy. I wish I could find a 125/200cc bike to start on, but it’s not an option. the difference between the bikes is the price, the TRS i could buy, the Evo factory is 2500€ more expensive, and that difference I don’t have unless I get a loan. i’m planning to keep the bike long term, would appreciate some input, subjective opinions, who would buy which one and for what reason. thanks, Ben

Some info here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0457/0886/9800/files/MANUAL-EXTENSION-SETTINGS.pdf?v=1660508694

Hi Guys, I have a 2023 TRS One RR. On the upper left fork spring preload can be adjusted. What is on the upper right leg, please ? On newer online manuals it is written compression adjustment on older ones rebound? What is on the lower part of the forks? On all manuals it's written that both legs have extension adjustments to be turned 1 turn out from all closed but it seems very odd as one leg has the spring ( left ) and the other ( right ) the oil ( correct me if I'm wrong ). Thanks, Kasty

I would think the most easy way to lower the compression is to shim the spark plug. All you will have to do is to put a washer on the spark plug so the spark plug sits higher. Having said that i do not know if putting a washer on the spark plug is not recomended but i am sure other members here on the forum knows. I have read about people doing this to lower the compression but if it works it is not much job to lower the compression just by putting on a washer on the spark plug. My 2006 Gas Gas TXT 125 Pro and a 2006 Gas Gas TXT 250 Pro starts really easy. When the bike is cold i put the choke on and the bike usually starts on the first or second try. When the bike is warm i jus give it a little throttle and it starts on the first try

There are incorrect descriptions both in the paper manual that came with the bike when new and also the PDF owner's manual for 2006 Gas Gas TXT Pro. I noticed this the first time i had a look at the manual. There might be more wrong stuff in the manual for what i know. Is it typical for Gas Gas to have incorrect info in the owners manual? Does other years of Gas Gas TXT have incorrect info as well? Have a look at the 3 pictures posted below. The pictures below is of page 20, 22 and 29 in the manual.

A follow up on my hard to start Gasgas. I purchased a s3 head and low compression insert for my 2023 gasgas 300 GP. It made it a little easier to kick. I would buy it again, but it wasn’t a huge game changer. I think the bike broke in a little also. Before the head It would always start 2 or 3 kicks when cold with the choke on. But the compression when the bike was warm was really tough on me. Sometimes I couldn’t get a full kick. I would look for a tree to lean on to get a solid kick. Truly wore me out. I’m an intermediate rider, I couldn’t feel any power differences. Still plenty of power. But I can’t stress enough what a game changer the following starting procedure is when warm, put the bike in gear. Roll it back Pull in the clutch Kick The bike will kick easier, No compression kick back The bike will start first kick 9 out of 10 times. Never more than 2 kicks using this procedure. And if it doesn’t start first kick the compression doesn’t wear you out, I’m 66 years old and 150 pounds. If I was bigger and stronger maybe the original compression wouldn’t have been a issue. I now have zero thoughts of converting to a 250. I’ve kicked a 2023 Gasgas 250 GP and those bikes are much easier to kick. I’ve ordered a fly wheel weight, and a slower throttle. I’ll follow up with these parts.