thesolidman1

Michelin X11's have been discontinued for quite a while now, and are no longer available unless you find a shop that still has some.

Alpinestars are the only boot I have ever used, and I really like them. I find them very comfortable. They don't last forever, however. I usually get about about 1.5 - 2 years out of them. I probably ride on average once a week. Not sure if others last longer, but I am satisfied with their longevity. Your footpegs are a huge factor with how long the soles last. Once I switched to Raptor pegs, the soles lasted about 2-3 times longer.

I would try a leaner pilot jet

It's the OEM specified plug. Also for some reason, Beta has changed the spec for the plug to the projected tip version. Must be a reason for it. That said, I just checked my '15 and it has the regular BR7ES version in it. I'll give the project tip one a try. Here's what NGK says about it: A projected spark plug protrudes into the combustion chamber further and provides higher ignitability and improved performance. Simply this can be understood by representing the combustion chamber as a circle. A projected spark plug in effect produces a spark in the middle of the circle (or combustion chamber) allowing for an even flame spread. Conversely, a non-projected spark plug means the flame spread is not even.

The owner manual (CD) for the '15 models states 125-200 cc use BR7ES, 250-300 cc use BPR7ES

I've owned 3 Evo 250's, currently a '15. Beta does incremental changes that do improve the models, especially to the suspension. I agree that unless you are an expert doing BIG ups, a 250 is best. Yes, a 300 can be toned down. But to me, they just feel more bulky and harder to finesse. I believe that this is a result of the gyroscopic effect of the bigger top end. I have been trying out a friends '15 125 and feels like featherweight toy. Everyone who rides it swears it must be 20 lbs lighter. The weight difference is only ONE POUND, which goes to support the gyroscopic theory.

Thanks for sharing what you have learned and your effort with the pdf instructions, interesting.

Here in the US, apparently the x11 is no longer available. All of the major suppliers are listing the tire as not available. Not sure if they have stopped production, or what the deal is. I'm surprised this icon of tire has so quietly gone away.

I hope I didn't disappoint you!

I don't think the stock shock is that great. They don't last and aren't rebuildable. I had shock failures on the my last 2 Evos. My friend's went bad right away as well. The older Evo's in the club have no damping. They are like pogo sticks. Yes, they have tweaked the valving. They do work decent when new. Especially the '13. There is a reason why the '15's have a new design shock that holds more oil and is serviceable. It's still can't hold a candle to the performance of a TRP.

Don't worry about that, it is just the effect of air being trapped in a closed space. Vacuum or pressure can occur depending on what the air space does. Once everything is on the bike and the front wheel on, with the bike on a stand and the forks extended, open the the cap so air pressure can equalize with the fork in the correct extended position.

If I understand correctly, is sounds like you have not removed the cap from the damping rod? That would be a must do. Generally oil levels are set with everything completely collapsed.

If the bike still has the headlight on, try unplugging it. I just resolved an electrical glitch on my '15 Evo. Fan wouldn't come on, headlight wouldn't work. Started checking things and found the wires to the headlight very hot. I unplugged the headlight and the fan started working normally. Apparently there was an intermittant short in the headlight.

I rode my 2015 Evo 2t for the first time. I tried to tell the difference between the 2 maps. Not a huge difference. I felt that it ran better with the button down. With the button up, engine had a raspy sound and rough spot off idle. I couldn't tell any difference up top. So I think button down is full power mode.

The sticker says button up for full boost. The manual says down. BillyT says open circuit for full boost. Overdale says wires connected. What's Steve to do? Hopefully the real life difference in performance is enough to feel so testing can confirm.

Is it a 2T? If so, baseline is 1.5 turns out from fully in. I'm usually running about 1 turn out.

My mistake, you're correct. I didn't see the whole other parts listing for the Factory models at first glance. I'm impressed that they are so different. Anybody know how they compare to the performance of the STD model forks?

The forks are the same for the Factory vs Std model Evo. Same part #'s for internal components. Stock oil level for 2013 is 70 and 130.

Try Lewisportusa.com they have used bikes

Hi, the trials club for Northern California is PITS. website is http://www.sactopits.org/ There is a great event this weekend at Bear Valley, you should go up there and check it out!! Info for event can be found on PITS website. Mike

Would you guys say it is different, and easier to ride than the previous 300's? I rode a '12 300 and thought it was a bit much for me, currently on a '13 250. Curious if the '14 Factory is a different animal... thanks

What makes you say the same theory is suggested? I'm suggesting NOT using the dirt bike theory of 1/3 of the wheel travel.

No, I would go 85-90mm

Rear wheel travel is 7.1" or 180 mm. I would not set it at 1/3 of travel <not shock length> unless you are extremely light, that is a dirt bike setting, not a trials bike setting.

I agree with Copemech regarding sag. I know many will disagree with this, but setting sag at 1/3 of the travel does not apply to trials bikes. Ohlins specs 45 -50% of wheel travel with their trials shocks. Don't take my word for it - set your sag at 1/3 of the travel and test it, then set it at 1/2 of the travel and see for your self.