dadof2

Damage sufficient to cause bearing drag (and will result in premature bearing failure) can be too small to see without magnifying glass and good light

Try JK Hirst, I got a new set of clutch plates for a 95 gasser for about £50

Can;t advise on rear shocks but on standard TL it was worth removing the fork springs and fitting adjustable air pressure fork caps. Can't remember optimum PSI but I think it was between 5 and 15

The colour on titanium and steel pipe is dependent on the temperature where they are exposed to oxygen. The colour is an oxide film. Putting it simply the darker the colour the hotter the oxide film was formed at. If you heat steel or titanium in pure argon they stay bright silver because there is no oxygen to form the coloured oxide.

Do ypu meean the clutch case or clutch basket? You will probably need to phone or email BETA UK on Tuesday, you bike is probably too old for online parts listing

You do need to mix oil with the fuel. I suggest shell VSX2 mixed at 150 cc of oil to 5 litres of petrol. Ordinary unleaded should be OK. Contact Sandifords at Bury in lancashire for more info. You probably need to clean the contact points and reset them at 0.4 mm. I advise replacing the condenser - you can just remove it to see if you get a spark but don't run the bike for long without it - the points will burn. Condensers fail with age and will prevent the bike sparking. It would be a good idea to flush the engine with petrol / oil mix (same as fuel) Replace the air filter - old one will probably fall to pieces. Primary drive oil ATF or 10w 30 about 300 CCs Gearbox oil EP90 - Try 600 ccs but it may only be 450ccs. Edit - may need to flush the petrol tank and you will need to strip and clean the carburettor Easi start will hepl bike start first time Give the whole bike a good spray with WD40 or contect duck oil to loosen rust and free things up

It is probable the spacers are pressed into the bearings making them look as if they are part of it. Some bearings do have an extended inner race but I have never seen these on a motorcycle wheel. Have a look at the BETA UK website, you should be able to find a parts diagram for your bike which will give you the answer.

Well no, trials may not be quite tennis but it is insofar as an observer / line judge is at time required to make a difficult judgement that others sometime disagree with, occasionally very abusively. Have a look at the Penrith observers thread where an observer at this years event is vowing never to observe again. i believe observing should be strict - if not riders scores are / look too low and the clerk of the course may make future events harder unreasonably putting off poorer riders. Perhaps if WT marking was stricter the top class would have more participants. Where WTC riders get away with observer abuse to lower their scores this encourages some riders to employ the same tactics at lower level trials resulting in a loss of observers. Then trials are run on a "mark yourself basis" and some riders resort to cheating spoiling the event for all. Another consequence of loss of experienced observers is that the standard of observing drops. I have ridden in 2 trials where the use of very young inexperienced observers made the result a lottery. Trials can be a sport where good natured sportsmanship is the norm, participants just have to accept that judgements do not always go their way but over time things tend to even up. The alternative is a rather unpleasant win at all cost mentality. Having said the above there does need to be a system where a rider can protest a genuine grievance but that should not mean tolerating observer abuse.

ESP = extra sensory perception. I was joking about 2 of us posting the same solution (kill switch) at the same time (10:05) On your photo there is a little black thingy bolted to the crankcase at the top right hand side of the flywheel. This is the trigger that tells the spark when to fire. trace the wires from this and connect to a digital multimeter on a low ac volts setting kick the bike over and look for a brief indication of voltage. If you look at the flywheel photo the flywheel has a raised portion at about 11 O'clock position. The black trigger should be adjusted so there is only a small gap between it and the raised bit on the flywheel. It is usually about 0.4mm but hopefully someone willpost an exact gap for you model of bike. If you remove the flywheel (puller needed) one of the coils on the stator will look different to the rest. It has finer wire windings and may be clad in varnished cloth tape. Trace the wires from this and connect a multimeter set on the 0 to 20 volts ac range. Replace the flywheel and kick the bike over, should see clear indication of voltage. If you push the bike in bottom or second gear with the plug out you should see see 20 to 30 volts ac. Cheers

I think some are looking back at "stop permitted" with rose tinted glasses. Under those rules there were arguments about whether a foot was down or not, particularly when urging a bike stuck on its sump plate, had the rider moved back or not etc. Then there was the time limit which heavily penalised a rider for being slightly over time The problem that needs addressing is rider / minder abuse of observers. At championship level each rider could be given say 3 or 5 "disagree cards" (a bit like calls in tennis) If they are not satisfied with given score they write the section number on the card and hand it out to the observer. The observer then briefly writes reason for score, signs it and hands it back to rider. No verbal discussion allowed or automatic 5 or 10 mark penalty in addition to section score. Rider then can had card it at end of lap if he still wishes to challenge observers decision.

Coincidence or ESP????

Disconnect the kill switch then clean all the wiring connections. Check no wired are necked off where they are crimped or pushed into back of connectors, and that none are cut , insulation missing or shorting onto the frame or metal parts. Try swapping your coil with a known good one. Can you post a photo of your stator with the flywheel removed Cheers

Very nice they are, there was one at the Lancs Normandale this weekend.

Check the location of the fine wire clip that holds the float valve to the float arm. It needs to be in the fine groove that you can hardly see, not the deeper groove that only goes part way round the valve. If it is in the wrong groove it causes male part of valve to drag on female part causing erratic fuel level and the symptoms you describe. i think quite a number of carbs may have come with this fault being mis assembled when new. cheers

Look up gas gas reiger rear shock set up on youtube - same principles apply to Beta

I was a decent hand at trials having made expert, done a few nationals and finished the Scott when I got my first mx at the age of 26. The mx bike felt like a right handful at first but I soon got the hang of it and occasionally got centre championship points and even the odd local club win. What you need is a few mates to practice with (I had Mayson Wear and some other good riders). Riders who just go to meetings without practice in between tend to progress very slowly. Don't get on a crosser unless you are prepared to break bones. I suggest you go to a meeting at Great Salkeld (near Nord View) and ask around the paddock. You may find someone prepared to hire you a bike and gear. Quite a few have spare gear and even a second bike they are hoping to sell. Cheers PS when I first saw the photo of the Yam I thought common sense had prevailed and Yam were launching a new 500 2 stroke!!

i have always sold from my workplace or somewhere they could have a test ride. Always take car registration and photo of prospective purchaser. I do know a bloke who got caught out selling his road bike - purchasers vehicle was stolen and he never came back from test ride

Metal thickness? Near impossible to answer, depends if its in tension, compression or subject to torque etc. If your tube has a wall thickness of say 1.6mm then a good guide is to make the brackets about 1mm thicker, ie 2.5 or 3mm. As a previous poster says a frquent MIG problem is lack of fusion or cold lapping by not melting into the metal. As a general guide use 40 to 50 amps per mm of metal thickness. Get some metal same thickness as on you sidecar and practice. Flex your practice welds until they break. the break should occur in the metal, not the weld. Clean the metal thoroughly and heat it with a propane torch before welding. Heat it until is is dark straw colour and then weld fast before it cools. Argon with 5 % CO2 is probably the best gas. Cheers Edit added - suggest you read Performance Welding by Richard Finch.

A couple of members have posted "if plug is black you hve a rich issue". I do agree to some extent and certianly its best to check / fix the simple cheap things first. I know an expoerienced mechanic who replaced the coils and CDI on a 4 stroke Kawasaki (at considerable expense) when the real cause was the cold start enrichment valve not seating properly. A failing coil can however cause exactly the symptoms, including sooty plug you have, its as if giving it a rest whilst changing the plug gives it time to cool down or whatever and work again. The soot (conducting carbon readily ionizable) on the plug actually helps the weak coil to fire right up to the point so much is deposited it provides an alternative path (to jumping the plug gap) along the centre electrode insulator. Cheers

Try http://www.uk-motopl...om/contact.html I know it says motoplat but he knows a fair bit about gasgas boys as well. Can you post a photo of your stator. Boys had a history of poor igntions and there are a number of variants fitted. If it is the same as the earler selettra stators a poor earth is likely but also is a poor contact between the stator coil windings and the wires that come off them. some have a very poor design of wire joint and just moving it off and back onto the bike could have caused it to fail.

I do not know the correct order specific to your bike, but whenever I have this gasket / shim combination I put the shim in the middle and bond all 3 together with hylomar and use hy;omar on the faces to barrel and crankcase as well.

Just want to clarify / correct a couple of points on my previous post. The section I referred to was actually 3rd from last, not 2nd from last. I was stood at 90 degrees to the line of the section therefor I had a clear view of Bou and Rag stopping. The observers were all at the top of the hollow looking more or less head on at the riders with trees in the way. Another thing I notice was on one of the middle section on the easy course, a fairly innocuos step about 3 to 4 ft high with a straight approach on flat ground. A great many riders fived or made a mess of this whereas 20 / 30 years ago a lot of club / centre riders on Bultos and Ty250s would have got upo fairly easy. It seemed to be mistimig releasing the clutch that was the problem, whereas in the ol;d days it was just a matter of lofting the frot wheel with the throttle. Another observation - Burger vans not doing much trade - too expensive? If its Nord View next year I will probably only go on the practice day. Less crowds, cheaper and very interesting. Cheers

From what I saw on Saturday stopping did not necessarily result in a 5. On next to last section Bou reversed at least 3 inch and Raga a bit less but the both got away with it. Just my opinion but I thought Dabill produced some of the best flowing rides in the true spirit of no stop whereas many of the others are still stopping and getting away with it far too often. I know of two riders with about 80 years experience and many awards between them who were unwilling to observe at Nord View this year because of previous rider / minder abuse arguing or interfering with an observer should incur an automatic 10 in addition to section score. the rock shifting incident on section 2 involving Fajardo was pretty entertaining - bit like trying to put a snooker ball back in exactly the right place. Some of the section layouts made observing difficult with riders choosing unforeseen lines. Nord View is an easy drive for me but I think it needs arrest. It would be good to see the riders on a traditional course round Bainbridge / semmerwater for instance. Cheers

Gasser gets my vote at this time, depreciation severe on ossas

If the lacquer on the barrel has turned brown or tinted its a fair bet the engine has been severely overheated. CAVEAT EMPTOR