joeninety

Bloody hell... they're expensive.

This lid that Mark Webber is wearing looks a reasonable comprimise but not sure who the manufacturer is...

Cheers Guys. I was hoping someone would just say its Honda part number ......... or RS part number ....... etc.... but I can work it out. When I took the forks apart one circlip shattered on removal and the other bent so I just binned them as when I've done Paoli and Marzocci seals on modern machines the clip has come with the seals but not for the TLR Showa's.

Hi, Does anyone know the circlip number or size for seal retaining on TLR 35mm forks? Cheers, Gary.

I'm not to sure be honest. I've posted this on behalf of a club member. At the moment its just important to get it out there so folks can keep a eye out... If I hear anymore about security I'll let you know.

Hi All, PLEASE SHARE WITH EVERYONE AND MAKE THESE BIKES TOO HOT TO HANDLE! Last night, 20/8/15, my pride and joy TLR 200 along with my son's TL 125 were stolen from Bransgore, Hampshire. Attached is a photo of the TLR, reg no A522 BHL, engine number MD09E-1024961, frame number MD09-1024961. Regrettably I don't have details on the TL 125 other than it was in original condition but hadn't been run for several years. If you hear about a bike for sale or are looking at a TLR please check the frame number and give me a call, perhaps asking if they have any other old Honda's for sale. Kind regards, Jon Macklin 07764 320519

I've loosely wirelocked the red stop cap to the handle bars with enough length for it to come off but restricts it from hitting me. The elastic lanyard has a plastic clip that come detached so I don't get dragged down with the big in the event of a big crash. It also ensures I turn upto the trial with the red cutout cap! Gotta be on the left as it allows selection of neutral using your hand as these modern bikes are almost impossible to find it with your feet...

Hi, I've managed to get hold of a TLR rear hub, looked okay but needed a bit of a clean up but after bead blasting I noticed cracking around the spoke holes on the brake lining side of the hub. Had I used it as is I would have not noticed these cracks due to the paint covering them but now I know I'm wary about using it. So... whats the options? The cracks don't appear to go into the spoke counter bore holes and aren't visable on the internal diameter of the hub flange so are these surface cracks? could they be machined off by turning down that flange diameter as I don't think this is a stressed feature? what about welding? I thought about turning the diameter parallel and shrinking a stainless ring on it? Whats people thoughts and I'd be interested to know how many other TLR hubs are like this with people unaware... Cheers, Gary.

Just from a cable bend perpective I'd have thought the drum on left side (nearside) as the front brake lever is on the right hence the cable radius being not so tight and an better brake action.

Hi, I've just been given a 36 spoke tubeless rim from a mid 90's gasser in good condition. I'm looking to lace this to a TLR hub but don't want to use my existing TLR hub as the wheel & hub are good and I want to keep as spare. So I'm looking out for a used TLR hub from the usual places but in the meantime I'm wondering is there are any alternatives that will fit and might be better than the TLR hub / brake? e.g. Will a TY250 mono hub fit? how much modding required? any gains for the amount of work etc? Cheers, Gary.

The disposal document I received through the post which is also registered at a goverment office has no mention of fly tipping! It was disposed of in the correct manner. The company I used does private jobs at a reasonable cost due to being able to piggy back them onto a larger industrial contracts. I almiost feel insulted that you think I would engage into a contract knowing it might be fly tipped...

As with most things in life you should shop around and get more quotes. Some places might not really want the job for some reason but rather than decline they quote a high cost and in the event the customer accepts they are quids in. Off topic a bit, but last year I had my asbestos garage roof removed and had quotes ranging from £350 to £1800 and the largest quote was the first one I got back and I nearly fell over when I saw the price... If it were me I'd be trying to get 3 quotes for your chroming.

Just a note that this weekend (22nd Feb) is not a Waltham Chase Trial at Hut Hill but a open to centre Southampton & District MCC trial and they don't tend to have a beginners route as Waltham Chase do. By all means still ride it but if its a bit servere don't let that put either of you off trials as Waltham Chase cater better for newbies...

As Burns said its probably dirt or water in the carb and it needs cleaning out, but a little tip if it happens again while riding is to get the bike going on tickover then put the choke on which can "sometimes" allow you to rev it past the bogging down point and and give it a handful and this can pull whats causing your issue through the carb. If it works don't forget to turn your choke off... I had this problem a while ago after the first lap of a trial and this worked and managed to complete the event.

Or as a mate of mine used to say... "One swallow does not make her my girlfiend..."

... and the Standard machine is 0.5kg lighter than the repsol?! Its like buying a Raga Gas Gas and getting to a trial and finding out its heavier than the Standard Pro... With the £1500ish saving you could also add a titainium exhaust system, bolt kit & some X-Lites and its even lighter for the the same money!

If you go for a fast action throttle and don't get on with it but don't want to go back to the slow action then modify the fast action to a "medium" action... (see below) Put 2 hacksaw blades together in a hacksaw frame and carefully from where the throttle cable starts, hacksaw down around 3mm and gradually lead the cut out to around 45 degrees from the cable anchor and then clean up with a small file / emery tape. The deeper you cut the slower the take up will be but you still have the fast action diameter when you open it right up. This mod makes the bike more manageable off the bottom. Do this little by little until you acheive the desired result.

I've seen some of the paint jobs that Steve does and can vouch he does a fantastic job... Steve - Post a couple of pics of the before and after paint job of the "Repsol Small Wheeler" you done a couple of months back?

Isn't it one of those optional extras that BMW drivers can order to get some grip when it snows...?

My mate who has a Jotagas had this issue and he had a new head insert sent to him which helped but didn't cure it. He ended up bending the float valve in the carb to raise the height about 3mm if memory serves me correct and this totally cured it and made the response better though the rev range...

I had a Spada and found it to be okay but was quite heavy and I found this a problem in trials with obstacles that caused the bike to go from nose up to nose down quickly and the weight would crick my neck sometimes. I tried the Airoh and they seemed nice but were expensive and didn't seem to suit my head shape. I ended up with a MOTS, lighter than the Spada and much cheaper than the Airoh at around £75. Try not to buy without trying as helmet fit is the key...

Or you could sell it and buy a road registered 4RT...

My mate's 156cc Fantic thread started to strip and he couldn't get the original plug to seal. We tapped it out to M12 x 1.75 (standard pitch) then got a hex head M12 bolt and machined the head down to 3mm thick and tapped a M6 thread through the centre. He then cut the thread to the required length and bonded this into the existing drain plug hole. When then sourced an M6 pan head and a 1/8 BSPP bonded seal (dowty seal) and this screws into the permanent plug that allows you to drain the oil and seals really well. Note, all bolts are stainless steel. Cheers...

If its a slower action off the bottom you're after and already have a fast action (white tube) throttle then try this... Put 2 hacksaw blades together in a hacksaw frame and carefully from where the throttle cable starts, hacksaw down around 3mm and gradually lead the cut out to around 45 degrees from the cable anchor and then clean up with a small file / emery tape. The deeper you cut the slower the take up will be but you still have the fast action diameter when you open it right up. This mod makes the bike more manageable off the bottom. Do this little by little until you acheive the desired result. For the price of the XPRO you could have 3 tubes all cut for different trials conditions. The XPRO's look nicely engineered but the biggest problem is you are buying blind and £25 + p+p is a lot for something you may not like and can't return. Cheers...

If I was you I would save the money on getting it set-up professionally and find someone in your club who knows about these things (there's always someone, expert or ex-experts who have been riding for years etc), buy them a case or beer in exchange for their help. Hopefully they can watch you ride various obstacles and from watching how the bike is reacting start tweaking. You would also learn from them to allow you to adjust future bikes or impart this info to others. Lastly they should also be setting it up with the venues you ride in mind, i.e. northern rocks or southern mud may have a different settings. Also look at all the controls, clutch bite point, lever position, bar positions, rear brake position as its gotta be a whole package. Cheers, Gary.