0007

Ditto, the better you get the slower you go Kinda the opposite of MX and XC

Bingo, Ditto on the lapping and Ditto on the key being only for indexing

I mix em Some stuff like the most common sizes get the good wrench (especially in smaller sizes) and just fill in the less common sizes with low dollar stuff Things like Philips screwdrivers, don't cheep out, better quality just works better for longer Ratchet and socket sets just go mid grade and look around for sales There are a lot of brand names out there but not so many tool factories, a lot of stuff rolls out the same door with a different look

Power is only an advantage to those skilled enough to use it properly I have been in the Japanese bike world all my life and have enjoyed soooo much Jenglish that translations always make me chuckle If you get late 70's owners manuals or service manuals they are absolutely full of gems like that

Ya I agree, I have tried a few and it seems like many are good but some seem to have some property that increases drag regardless of viscosity Weird thing

I kinda like the compilation stuff, but it would be way better with some really intense Dubstep kinda Rave music ......

There are probable a dozen real good reasons Patent infringement Expense Physical dimensions Enormous fuel pressure Electrical output (turn over a modern DI 2 stroke by hand and feel the mag drag, WOW!) It's just Not easy to make a direct injected 2T 4T is over 100 years old, it's easy and cheep and it's the future til electric comes of age

If pressed, the manufacturers could develop technology to make anything quiet It's amazing what happens when necessity rears it's ugly head

I enjoy weird camera angles and would like to see more of that, but keep the camera low on the bike or body so the terrain does not look flat And don't delete the crashes You could try placing e camera in different places and film the same section from different angles, then take the time to edit them so it looks like real time

I like the camera angles and fly cam and editing and riding Good job I don't think every video needs music......was that music? ......I remember the days when bands played instruments like guitars and drums Try a little AcDc or Mettalica or iron maiden on Maybe an intro and outro but listen to the bikes in the middle Oh and do some backflips, I like backflips

LOL, I sold my 17 year old Beta and the guy flipped out and wanted his money back cuz the kick start slips the ratchet every once in a while, always started for me, he is a dirt bike guy and I'm guessing was jumping up and down on it or something I took it back and told him used trials bikes are not for him He drove 300km to return the bike with a 1 ton diesel truck rather than take my offer of paying for the parts to fix whatever was slipping

What is the resistance now? Also measure the resistance as far from the stator as you can so you measure the integrity of the wire harness and harness ground Do two tests, isolate the stator and then test it again through the harness

Don't forget Ridden mostly on Sundays

Ya I get what you are saying and it makes sense All I would say is impact to a spinning flywheel so far away from the bearing has the possibility of bending the crank stub Which one is worse

It's really the best kind of pain, it was fun getting it and keeps reminding you of a good day and you know it will get better Show me the victim LOL

Hey a question for you gents about a 97 Techno Mine seems to slip the kick start ratchet ever few kicks Always returns to the top Is it just the 2 ratchet pieces? Or is there more to it

Ditto with Dan, my bike is a lot easier to ride with more spring Took a lot of the fore and aft transfer away while turning, so now I can get some 3's once in a while along with my 5's

Cope is right about the self adjusting aspect But all it takes is a bit of a sticky seal and the seal pulls the piston back to the same place regardless as to clutch pack thickness and wear That is difficult thing to account for as it's not factory spec and could vary between bikes So if the total stroke of the slave is like 3 mm (Guess) and you are 1 mm off then you have lost 30% of your stroke Anyway, if the glue removal doesn't deal with drag then this measurement should be checked

Vitamin B6 sure helps me out with Teno and carpal tunnel, just don't overdose on the stuff, just take the recommended amount

I can't see a selection of shims not and I wonder if maybe it was on my Rev 3 Here is a description from the manual.......good luck with it And I Quote, I wish I could attach the graphic but I can't do it with my iPad Note: The device you pressure plate must have a play between 0.4 mm and 0.6 mm. There- fore, proceed as follows when replacing disks: •Reassemble the clutch without the outer cover •Send the control rod to end of travel by pushing the pressure plate and measure distance F •Operate the clutch lever until the control rod activates the pressure plate. Measure distance G and check that there is difference of approximately 0.4-0.6mm.

There is a shim involved as well The clutch only slightly disengages, it does not push the plates apart by even 1mm per surface I think it's roughly .040 thou So if your clutch shim is too thin then maybe you are simply not getting full stroke on the pressure plate

Balderdash there Zippy, everyone knows Canada produces the finest of herbs

I would steer clear of the other way Put the long long crank stub with a large rotating mass on the end The end closest to hitting the ground There is no magic design that is reasonably priced to build Maybe all of the people who design motorcycle engines are right!

LOL, you too huh Don't even get me started about trying to balance on my bicycle

Pop quiz: What is the purpose of "Sag" As in why would I need it