cursed

Sorry to hear about your poor experience, I've never had to use their customer services so can't comment there, but it seems as though its a decent option for your car? A weeks lead time seems fairly reasonable for a 1 man band to put together a rack for your car. You mentioned the cowboy welding, I must say I disagree. The welding on mine is very good and appears in the picture that yours is too; were you after an aircraft grade cobra weld or something? My rack is probably 10 years old now and still going strong, been on 4 different cars now so I can only say that for the money and size, I am a happy customer. Its a shame that a small amount of poor service can anger a customer so much...

You don't need an additional licence to tow small weights (in the UK) - check the licence restrictions, but a motorbike will fall well within what you are allowed to tow (should you want to go down that route). Second would be the nose weight of the towbar. If you are towing a bike, it will be plenty, if you are using a rack, you will probably be close. I had a renault clio with 80kg noseweight which is just about enough for a gasser. The only other thing to consider is your insurance, with regards to a modified vehicle. A towbar is a modification, so should be stated as such on your insurance. This is kind of blurred lines if you use a rack and aren't actually towing - who knows where you stand, but best to just declare it as a mod, it shouldn't up the premium too much. Other considerations - can only do 60 towing a trailer, 70 with a rack. You will need a lighting board with either option to be safe.

Definitely get something with junior sized wheels (think they do junior & full sized wheels on the 50's). The seat hight is greatly lower, which is far better for someone of that age, as they can handle the bike better when putting feet down. I remember at around 11 years old (small for my age however) riding a friends full sized 50cc and compared to my small wheeled one it was impossible to ride, whenever I got stuck on an incline etc I'd struggle to hold the bike up. I'd say just be wary of moving up to a bike that is too big for the rider too early, the 50cc's are normally powerful enough for the beginner and novice sections where we are, if the rider is adequete.

I mean, at the end of the day, it's seated inside a hole, and the clutch slave pushes against it (inwards), so there no way it's going to move about or come out, but I would still get one personally. It might have been left out as people think there will be more oil flow, which I guess is true, but I don't particularly see why it's needed.

You mean theres a bolt on your's but not in Jim Snell's video? There should be a bolt with the breather in it to hold the clutch in place. If I remember there is the bolt in Jim Snell's video? If you do not have the bolt, definitely get one... Either way however, it shouldn't cause clutch drag, look at the plates/oil your using.

I am an intermediate and I can't tell a difference with the switch on my 07 Raga. Maybe an Expert may see a difference, or maybe it's more noticeable on the later bikes but I'm not sure.

Thats a nice little area you have to play in there, and nice riding (Y)

I can't comment on the Kangoo as such, but I used to have a renault clio 1.5 dCi, which has the same engine as the 1.5 Kangoo. It used to get 75 mpg on a good run and averaged about 65mpg - absolutely magical!

Yeah the clutch is fully engaged (fully out as it were). As I say, I've never had a problem before, and I've not touched anything in the clutch area. I don't really have an explaination, as if the ATF has broken down (shouldn't have however), then the clutch would surely drag, not slip.

Never experienced any problems before, however at a trial last weekend, the clutch was slipping alot under power in higher gears. In first it was not noticeable and was puting power down well, and in 2nd it was not too bad, however in third and above, trying to put power down just resulted in the clutch slipping like mad. 5th and 6th were essentially unusable and provided no drive. Is this the clutch wearing out or the ATF I am using? As far as I was aware ATF is so light it should not cause the clutch to slip, indicating to me it is the clutch plates on their way out, however I'd rather check than shell out for new plates. If it's the oil, would Putoline Light Gear be just as bad, or will it suffice? Cheers in advance. I should note - currently filled with around 400ml, 1/2 way up the window on a flat.

That thing seems to pull him up the slippery hills VERY well indeed...

One wind on the spring mate. I found it would not seat in it's hole unless the bike was layed over & the recess it sits in was full of oil, which kind of acted like a vacuum when you push the shaft in. Just a lil tip!

Heh thats not that bad, When I removed mine, the idler gear had a few missing teeth, and all remaining teeth had only about 1/2 of the material left. The kickstart gear (bart simpson shaped one ) had 1/2 it's teeth missing also lol. I had only ridden the bike twice at this time so the previous owner obviously had no idea of how to start a bike :S The kickstart is fairly easy to remove, you just need to wind it back out off the spring (be careful not to scratch the **** out of the crankcase - very easy to do...) and pull her out. Replacing the kickstart gear though, is a bitch. The circlips are mentally tight on there and is not fun if you take the kickstart gear off, not noting where sits on the shaft, and you have to play trial&error to see which spline to put it on the shaft.... My advice, take a picture of where the gear sits on the shaft before removing it to make life a hell of a lot easier lol.

Helmets? What are they? Nice find!

I get a lift at the moment. Bit of a big ask to get a lift up to Scotland . I did consider a car with a towbar but I think you need to be over 21 also..

No it's for a training weekend in 2 weeks time unfortunately . I have even considered attempting to take the bike on the train claiming its a bicycle lol, not sure it's the best idea though.

I need to take a bike all the way up north to ride in Scotland (from Bristol), however struggling to find transport. Does anyone know of anywhere that will hire me a van at the age of 20? Cost is not really an issue as it will be paid for (within reason!) however everywhere I have tried has been minimum age of 21 or over. Held my licence for 3 years, no claims etc... Thanks in advance!

That would be brilliant. I guess at a trial up near Leeds?

Why would you want to be putting revs on when landing on the front wheel? That has no affect? Wait until the rear wheel is on the ground, and then apply revs. Everything should have calmed down by then and you can then judge the revs to apply? If your applying revs in middair and then landing on the front wheel, surely your then putting massive revs on and the rear wheel hits the ground and you shoot forward?

It's right in there in the middle of the clutch basket, would never get a dremel in there lol. Good suggestion for normal stuck bolts however

Wow, never had a torx bit round like cheese from a bolt, usually the other way around o.O. Maybe try and use a better quality torx bit that wont bend? Even my halfrauds pro ones are usually stronger than most bolts and don't round off/bend :S. Goodluck with your problem, it's a pain when everything you try doesnt work

The drill is not the way to do it bud. Likelihood is is that you will just drill into the bolt and it won't turn. If this happens and you drill the head off the bolt, then you really are rolloxed. The bolt SHOULD be loctited in there, so needs a sharp crack to get it out. You'll also get swarf everywhere inside the engine which is not good.. The best way is as said, to get a torx in there. Get the size ever so slightly bigger than the current hole, use a screwdriver type bit, and put it on the end of the screwdriver and hammer it in. When you do this lay the bike over, get a light and make sure it goes in straight, and make sure you you hit it in pretty far (you do actually have to hit quite hard). Then turn and hope and it should work, if not, hit it in further and try again. Replace with an OEM replacement. You'll probably ruin the torx bit and if your screwdriver handle is plastic, that too lol, but it's worth it for sure.

Thanks a lot, turned out to be this. Was some grit between the flywheel and the crankcase cover making the noise. Whipped it off and cleaned it out and all is well . Glad I tried this just before whipping off the head lol.

Will check but you can literally hear it simply by slowly kicking the bike over (moving piston up and down) so pretty sure the noise is caused by the piston moving up and down...

The bearings? Was fully of oil so would hope not :/. Will check out the flywheel, quick job really. I guess if anything is rusty it's best to clear it off, then run the bike and change the oil a little more frequent than normal a few times to get any shards out like?