2stroke4stroke

Did you get absolutely all of any corrosion out from the seal groove?

Now red, white, blue and rust brown☺ I assume the seals need renewed and, as you say, a simple job, if the seals are a standard obtainable size. I've never been inside them but they are probably a bit cruder than the Fox mountainbike ones I have worked on.

Correctly assumed pmk. Put 150 in though it gradually leaked out but the units still performed well. No doubt a stripdown would be in order.

I seem to recall that something of the sort was experimented with some years ago. I daresay the technology would be better now but is it really what we want to see?

Does the continuous tone rule not only apply to vehicles of an age after the date when this rule was revised? A pre'65 should be ok with a bulb horn? Not that a tester would be likely to know or consider this. I've always found it puzzling, for a safety related test, that it should be acceptable for a tyre to be presented in a "damaged" state, the wall having received the attentions of a buff. I don't see how you could remove the writing without leaving marks.

I would try 71zman's wiggle first, it won't cost anything if it does not work.

I did wonder why you were stripping the whole thing just to remove two springs...........

Once you start using it properly and there is a bit of airflow round the casings it may be a bit cooler in that area.

'Fraid I can't help with that. Beta UK did have photos on doing timing which might show this.

Have you got the backplate in the correct position? Use the old screw marks as a guide.

It's nice to have something a bit different but, frankly, I would heed Breagh's advice and employ the proverbial bargepole.

I wouldn't worry too much about precise tickover, just set it to what suits you once you have had a chance to get used to the bike. I almost always used first on my Beta, but depended on section type as it could pull fourth if needed: it is very much a personal thing depending in riding style.

From (distant) memory, clutch was 250cc and gearbox 550 but someone will know exactly. I think you could do better than a 30 in the clutch, given modern oils.

The cheap hour meters don't seem to last very long. I have no idea if the "better" ones at £35 are any improvement on that (but would like to hear from anyone with experience of them). You just wrap the wire round the plug lead - but the Beta is not so critical that you can't just estimate the time each week.

What really matters is whether the clutch works when riding. As you have been in there we now know all appears well visually and there will be oil in the casing. Start it up and push off as stated above but hold the clutch lever in all the time as you work up the gearbox - it will probably free off when you hit fourth gear. If not then keep riding round with the lever in until it does.

Nice to get the chance to start from scratch and ensure the "PDI" gets done properly - grease every thread you can get at.

I wouldn't be too hard on the previous owner - packing out the shoes was standard practice in the old days, especially where the cam did not have a splined fitting.

A MAR with brakes? Somewhat of a novel concept that. I seem to recall the main purpose of the linings on the Ossa was to remove rust on the surface of the drum ☺

If it has been left with petrol in the carb then it will probably need a strip to clean out the gunge before it will start. If carb is clean it should start fine with fresh twostroke mix.

It has not been uncommon over the years for manufacturers to put someone out on a specific machine different to the rider's norm where there is a capacity award. The pot is there to be won so they go for it.

If you frame had moved I suspect you would see the cracks as I don't think it would bend much, unlike a steel one.

Thanks Mark. I'm fairly sure the dealer's bicycle trackpump did not dispense nitrogen ☺

Best I can do is to say early Seventies. I think, but may be wrong, that all 348 years had them but 349 did not. Montesa experts will correct any error.

Why do we have fatbars? My 348 had the bigger diameter bars, presumably for strength, but they were not (unlike fatbars) very resistant to bending so there was a market for shims to convert to accept 7/8 Renthals.

I've dragged the old units out the spares box and wonder if anyone can recall what pressure they should be pumped to. I did read somewhere that 200 psi was the figure but that seems more like that for air spring units and i certainly don't think my local Fox dealer had the equipment to pump or measure to that sort of pressure when he set them. I may have had a manual but that will be long gone. Any advice appreciated.