hrmad

Hi, I've got the right fork off the bike, the one with the dampner adjuster at the top, undone the top bolt and drained the fork oil. Can't figure out how to remove the damnper assembly. Tried to undo the bolt at the very bottom of the fork leg, it turns but nothing seems to be happening. Looking at the manual it says to hold the damper with a special tool, then loosen the fork center bolt. Would someone mind explaining what this tool is/ how to remove the dampner assembly? Thanks

They work well on my 4rt, no problems

Should be able to tell by eye if the edges of the tyre (the tread) are rounded and worn. And as others have said, try squeezing the tread, it should be pliable.

Depends entirely upon how you set up the bike. A 300 beta with a slow throttle and a flywheel weight is a completely different animal to an experts 300 racing gasgas or sherco. A 250 wouldn't be underpowered though, but I don't think a 300 would be too much either- just depends on your setup and what type of stuff you plan to ride.

Had no problems with the jitsie, but then again I also live in the UK

I've got 10/44 gearing on mine, the bike had 10/42 on it when I first bought her, found that too fast. Mind you, I use the clutch on this bike far more than I did for the beta, just helps to lift the front with no run up and in very tight turns, also winding the bike up in mud, releasing the clutch slow and timing the throttle right. Sometimes she grips like stink and surprises me! Anyways I find with 10/44 I've used 1st, 2nd and 3rd in sections successfully. Its so wet here having the first three gears usable is important

Brakes ajp I think on the older bikes, braktec on more recent versions? Showa suspension only on the 4rt and 315r as far as I know, tech forks on the modern standard a shared component. Handle bar controls, throttle tubes etc shared parts bin. Injection system, engine, frame, rad, plastics, did rims on older bikes, nuts and bolts all Honda I believe, assembled in Spain. Please correct me if I'm wrong on any points, I can tell you the bolts and general fit/ quality of the 4rt is far far above the rev3 I had before.

New mudguards look nice, ptb on repsol and RR models would have been cool, don't see the need for a 300cc standard model, 260cc plenty I think. Still, not much different from my old modded bird really, everything is replaceable, ridden a 14 not much different really

I love my 4rt, but I'm glad I started on a beta 200, nice soft power. If you've got some previous trials experience you should be able to live with a 4rt, harder work in some respects to ride but the most rewarding. The beta would be lighter and perhaps easier to learn on

Maybe check adjustment on leaver, make sure you've got a bit of free play? What fluid is in the gearbox? Might be worth changing that first. A fresh set of plates might be needed, but maybe try the above first? My 4rt used to take off cold I replaced the plates, I run atf in the gearbox and got a 315 master cylinder on the bike, best clutch I've ever had. I'm no expert, just my 2 cents worth

Maybe gear the bike down by one tooth on the front and learn to ride no clutch? Apart from very tight turns, you shouldn't really need to use the clutch on sportsman/ beginner sections.

A rothmans rep option would be cool, white frame, polished swing arm, gold casings, blue tank and white plastics. Programmable throttle body too. Truth is, probably exactly the same as 2016, maybe a token gesture of different stickers.

Can't see a problem with folks lightening their bikes, surely its up to individual? Can't see how its hurting anyone or why it would be an issue, its personal preference

Whatever bike you buy second hand, budget for things like seals, bearings etc, you'll always have to replace something. Stick with the beta, give it a service. Then save up for something a bit younger and find something that suits you, would be my advice

Thanks Jonny I'll have to get a set when I can afford to again, thanks

Thanks I am pretty gutted, be careful who you let ride your new machine, I've learnt my lesson. Any of those bikes would be an awesome choice, only you know really what you want in a machine

I went from a beta rev3 200 to a 06 mont, can't say the extra weight is noticeable, brilliant fun to ride, couldn't recommend one enough.

Hi, I want to get some gear to match the new bike, some repsol hebo gear, the trousers, shirt and jacket. They are quite expensive, just wanted to ask if anyone else has bought them, what sort of quality they are? Are the sizes accurate, I usually wear a 32" trouser in MX gear and small top, Thanks guys

An 05 mont would still be a good bike in 2030, not sure you could say the same of the other brands.

No need for a stand, the standard one is like cheese, Mitani one very expensive, maybe save your pennies for something else? There is always something to lean the bike against

sorted it, wasn't quite all going on the splines properly running a treat now. Still has cold stick, though not quite as bad. Neutral easy to find, nice smooth engagement. Happy

I'll have to try it and see. This new clutch pack looks noticeably less thick than the standard and there is about a 10mm gap between the pressure plate and the new pack.

Hi all, I've bought some apico dimpled steel plates and ebc friction plates to try to cure the cold take off the bike is prone to. Problem is the ebc plates are very different to standard. They are thinner, not as wide either. With fitting the same number of plates as standard there is quite a gap between the first plate and the retaining plate if you get what I mean? My boyfriends dad seems to think we can put an extra steel plate and friction plate in to make up the gap, but i'm not too keen on the idea. Anyone fitted these plates to their bike or have any advice? Thanks

A 315 clutch master cylinder, transformed the clutch. Not sure if they are still tiny on the latest bikes?

You only live once, trs!