jonnyc21

No, not paranoid... MT43's are rock hard by comparison to standard trials tires. I consider the MT43 to be a dirt bike trials tire not a trials bike trials tire.

I would think stuck floats and filled up lower end like Lineaway indicated. good luck.

I think the Donlop 803 GP is the best value for the money and the Michelin is the top for grip of the two tires I have used. Can't comment on the IRC yet.

If you use more body and pull on the bars you will get more lift for larger and more undercut obstacles, for your sized tire you should be able to just jump forward, and as indicated, just not push on the bars but let them come to you. You can also add a small pull up on the bars as a way to help with timing and preparation for larger obstacles.

Sheepy, something Jacob429 said reminded me that just like the jump on top without a bike your doing the same thing with the bike. When that clicked in my head I got it first attempt. It feels like your going to ram your hips into the bars, however what happens is that the bike moves forward as you do so you and the bike land on top with issue. Before that I was just jumping up, and thinking my forward movement was enough to carry me op and over. One of the hard parts of doing this on the round tire is that it's more difficult to punch the front tire into rather than set it on top or glance it off of the round portion of the tire. You will have better luck with a bit more revs and be faster with the clutch but that has other risks. Good luck.

In the US a good trials pant that isn't Lycra is the Up and Over. Not sure what is the best outside the US... http://www.upandovertrials.com/

I am over carful and would put a wrap of rubber tube around the capacitor and then zip tie it. My 2 cents.

have you double checked all your ground connections? Consider clean up all connections and apply some grease to prevent corrosion?

You should be able too get it in second gear with a tire of that size.

Your last attempt in the video looks like a much better punch of the front into the tire rather than the others witch are more set the front on top. if you can get more lift the front into rather than on top like that last one it will start feeling better. Much lower front when hitting the tire... Also, if you can time yourself so when you hit your front your jumping down harder on the bike then add the clutch hit As you jump up you should have it.

I know at least one rider that likes them and has used them in the past, however for him it's usually a cheap fallback glove for wet weather or if his preferred glove gives out during an event. Havent tried them myself so can't give any opinion on them.

Are the pads moving well at the calipers? With how much water you indicated I would likely pull the caliper apart and inspect. My experience is that water in brake systems can cause other unexpected issues and there is likely other unseen problems. And when working on brakes new pads and a 100% clean rotter are never a bad thing, as contaminated pads work about as good as not having brakes. So I would get new pads and give it a try, worst case you have an extra set for later if your current ones turn out not to be the problem. good luck.

FYI on size and power. At 190lbs and 5' 10" I can ride plenty of advanced stuff on my wife's 125. On that note I like the little extra my 250 has over that 125 and can easily say I would never need more than a 250. FYI: after 6 years of trials I did finally get a 300, wife got it for me as a birthday gift last year.

This is one of the two known ways to reset the EFI system if it's having trouble starting. I am not exactly sure what it dose to hold the kill switch or open the throttle fully, however my theory is it stops the spark and causes the bike to cycle without the system inputting any fuel. This in turn clears the cylinder, at least enough, of the over fueled mixture for it to start and tells the ECU to recalibrate. I would expect there is more to it than this but it's my best guess.

Dose yours have the race cam? I heard that and something like the Bosi make the 300 4T output a lot more power.

Trail type riding or road type riding? My wife's 08 Gas Gas 125 can get maybe low 20's milage wise in open trails riding in mostly 4th and 5th gear. In slow technical trail riding lost of lower gears 1st to 4th gear maybe 14 to 16 miles. The above is best I can remember, it's been quite some time sense I tracked a ride that close and didn't write it down. by comparison my 07 Montesa 4RT's best distance was a lot of 3rd to 5th gear riding with maximum of 24 miles to empty.

Absolutely 0 throttle should be needed, I have never been able to get mine started with even the slightest throttle. I found out that two ways to rest work, option one kill switch and 0 throttle with a minimum of 2 kicks 3 seems to be better or, option 2, no kill switch and full throttle with the same 2 to 3 kicks, though I believe the full throttle option is what is in my owners manual. Good luck.

Not all trials boots I have seen are tight to begin with, some do have ware in time but most post on the Forma's haven't indicated tight fit. My family and I have had AlpineStars and Gaerne and both have been fine so far.

That seems to be the trick dosn't it... the information indicates there is an optional kit that can do it, but who knows what kit that is? Doesn't seem to be anyone that does. The link to information saying it should be... http://hondanews.com/channels/motorcycle-off-road-competition/releases/2018-honda-montesa-cota-300rr-features-benefits

If I could only get someone that could confirm what software/kit really works with a 300 RR I would pick one up...

Yes pull up on the bars.

A good mixed terrain tire in my experience is the Dunlop 803 GP, not as nice as the Michelin but cost less last time I got a set.

Great video's, thanks again!

Thanks... the first one is amazing! the second shows as unavailable... great to see some awesome video of the Sheffield event!

Double checking, but you did look to see if the part numbers are different from the 4Ride? And you might also want to check the rear brake lever length and part number as it might be to far forward after swapping the brackets.