jonnyc21

I ride around the same level and found that with a little practice I like stock gearing better than with a 9T or sized up rear, however if I was going to do anything I would just go up 3 in the rear and keep the 10T in the front as the 9T is a bit harder on chains. As for timing its just a practice thing, I was on a 2T to start with and got my Montesa and found that I adapted quick just by riding it a lot. --- Some things that I think have helped me... To practice larger obstacles with a small pre compression bounce on the front before the full compression bounce, seemed to help me with a combination of the up as well as throttle and timing. I also found being a little earlier on the throttle with more clutch work helps me as well. I have also found that I really like using the mid range power and so often find myself shifting up to second and using less throttle and way more clutch as time progresses. I can't say this will work for you, however stock gearing, more clutch work, and using the mid range power they provides works well for me. What can I say, they ride different, they are not 2T's. I make no claims real or implied... I am sure you will do fine!

True, and if I could get a 4 Ride here in the US I would already have one. I am now wishing I had found a way to bring one in from Canada.

Not sure on the new Alpinestars but the older version has a good toe box but not really what I would call strong toe protection. Much better than the Gaernes my wife has but she prefers them for comfort and isn't riding as hard as me so I haven't forced the issue. My Daughter rides as well and likes her new (older stile) Alpinestars and I like that they are a bit more protective. hope that helps.

A long shot but something else to consider... There is a small chance that your throttle body could be getting an incorrect reading on the throttle position because its going passed closed. I remember someone having an issue where they had a lot of the same issues starting your describing and they solved it by preventing the butterfly from closing all the way. I don't remember how they fixed it but I remember talk of a very thin washer, or small mound of supper glue and such talked about. Might be worth trying to tighten the throttle cable just a touch to remove all the play in the cable and give it a few attempts and then a smidge more if that doesn't work and try again. Easy to do and undo depending on the results. Left field option but I figure at this point leave no stone unturned. Good luck.

If your going to go that way a KTM Freeride might be a better starting point over a WR250F... already way more trials focused.

Is there any chance you have a friend with a different ECU/throttle body you could try on your bike with everything else as it sits to check your ECU isn't having issues? I don't remember if you are you running a hotter plug or not, if not maybe go to the hotter pug listed in the manual?

Other than the gearing, larger tank, seat and the taller suspension the 4 Ride isn't crazy different from a 4RT. I would think a used 4RT with a seat tank combo and a taller gearing would work quite well depending on your needs. The need for lights or street licensing for your situation and/or location might be your only disadvantage to getting a 4 Ride over a 4RT. Good luck.

Your location might help in case there is someone that might know of a supplier that might still have them.

Now this isn't fair, I only get to vote once but I have a wife and kid that ride with me. would add one to the under 20 and one more for the 30 to 40 if I could.

If the temp sensor is going on/off and the fan works with a good 12v source then I would suspect the relay as well. And a bad fan relay would cause boil over...

Keep an eye on the oil level. There really isn't a lot in there and if it starts to go low you will start to go hot quick. I found that when I change my oil if I don't make sure I pull the sump guard (bash plate) and make sure the cover is sealed well I loose a little oil and will start to run a little hot tell I top it off. Best of luck.

Not sure about Pete but the 4RT fits my riding stile and I have better marks with it than others I have tried. But some of my friends do way better on 2T's so to each their own.

I have seen great performance from the new Dunlop GP tire and would say they are good for the price. However the X lite's are better it's not as big a difference as the older Dunlops. My experience is Seattle WA so hopefully closer to the U.K. In weather and riding conditions. with what your saying I would say spend the extra and go X Lite's but that's opinion and I would guess you would be fine on a set of new GP's... good luck!

It's already been said but... simply put, most would do far better on something much less than a factory replica or works bike, and as indicated if we took the time to adjust everything just that bit better with a good once over and a small tweak here and there as we practice, over time it would be of much more of an advantage to the vast majority of us. my 2 cents.

I suspect the Capacitor based on what I am reading, however I have been wrong plenty of times before. Let us know how things go with the new capacitor.

So I guess my response is a question... What percent of the people who rid trials at all are even going to get to the level of expert? And with most of the people I know that even want a 4T bike at all (Beta or Montesa) are in the clubeman level I can't see a lot of them getting to the upper levels. Then when, or if, you do get to the upper levels whoever is giving the best/most sponsorship options/deals will be the one with the most bikes at that level (within reason). The simple fact is that even a Beta 4T or Montesa 4RT can be a competitive bike depending on what you are interested in. I know my 4RT is way more bike than I am rider and I am quite happy in intermediate and even expect it will take me up to advanced without being my biggest disadvantage as I am sure the biggest issue I have with riding is myself not the bike. My 2 cents.

Is the ECU your working with programmable? If so you may want to try re-program it. Read a post abou someone having some strange issues once and re-programming with the same map it fixed them.

Thanks sportsawyer, I didn't catch that in his post, yes its normally open so if he has the jumper closing it, it wouldn't start.

Can I assume it worked fine in the past? If so have you checked the pin where the harness connects to the ECU to make sure it isn't bent or corroded? Any other detail about the bike that might help? Like what was done to it last other than your changes to get it to work, such as oil change, maintenance work like oil change, etc.?

I agree used to often just for oil change, air filter, and chain clean and lube. It often doesn't include checking and re-greasing things, coolant changes (as already noted), or checking of loose bolts etc. Good luck.

The video clearly shows him with the bike rolling back and his foot on the ground. I guess I am not sure why that matters as it was X-Trial not outdoor? I seem to remember seeing both Cabestany and busto doing the same things X-Trial last year and only getting a single point for it...

I thought that Going backwards with one foot on the ground was a 5 only in outdoor trials, not indoor...

stevelimb has it, screw on the throttle body to adjust the idle. The setting allows for the minor adjustment you might need to keep the idle correct at altitude or the shift from summer to winter weather depending on where you live.

That's quite the guard... home made?

Expect to have fun!