trapezeartist

Thanks a lot, grib. That's very helpful. Your 66:1 ties in with my preliminary plan to use 80ml to 5 litres so I'm happy I'm doing the right thing. Light gear oil or ATF? Hmm, it's all down to how the clutch feels I suppose. I don't know what I've got in there at the moment but I think ATF would be fairly obvious if I let a little drop out of the level plug. The parts diagram and manual are really useful too.

Yes, Jaime's name did sound like Hy-may in the clip I just looked at, but that video was in Euskera (Basque) and Jaime's comments were being voice-overed into Euskera. I don't know enough about Euskera to comment on pronunciation but I've heard plenty of Spanish spoken by people from the Basque country (and Cataluna, Valencia and Andalucia) and the back-of-the-throat sound is always there. But all of this is by-the-by: I was very impressed by the look of the Jotagas, but they have failed to convince enough people to part with their money. It's always going to be an uphill task to establish a new marque and while everyone seems to admire their engineering, other aspects of the business have failed to make the grade.

Me too! And just to play safe, I bought it myself.

No offence taken. We're both singing off the same hymn; there was just a bit of confusion. Eh? Me parece que tomaste demasiado ron, Sr Oni.

Yes. I've downloaded the 240 one to use as a rough guide. Even then, unfortunately it doesn't include the diagrams that are referenced throughout the text. 70/80:1 fully synthetic. Or 50:1 semi synthetic. I might have guessed there would be conflicting advice . The person I bought it from was using 70:1 synthetic, and even gave me half a can of oil. I think I might go for 63.5:1 (80ml to 5 litres). I think there is a level plug for the gearbox, but I haven't found it yet. I would like to be sure I've found the right thing before taking it out, just in case it's something else important. I should be able to let a bit dribble out and identify ATF. If it's not ATF I suppose it will be guesswork.

I would have written it khi-may. It's hard to put it into anything recognisably English phonetic. In this context the j is the choking sound in the back of the throat that only exists in Arabic and Spanish. It's a little bit like a Scotsman saying "loch".

The title says it: I've just become the proud owner of a Fantic 200 in really nice condition. So inevitably I have to start with a few questions to the worthy gentlemen of this forum. What fuel/oil mix should I use? What type of oil? I know brand is a personal preference, but fully synthetic, semi synthetic, mineral? What oil, and how much in the gearbox? Is there anywhere I can get a manual? Preferably a download. No doubt there will be more but these answers would get me started. I'm hoping to do a first trial with it on the day after Boxing Day.

Don't worry for my eyesight, Suction Sweep. I'll just keep well away from any cooking programmes on the box (along with dancing, "talent" shows and DIY makeovers). You have an interesting idea for future programmes. Ross Noble could be the next Guy Martin.

S Miller Esq on an Ariel 500 in the 1970s? Are you sure?

Letter J is said "jota" in Spanish, just like it would be "jay" in English.

If you were looking for an enthusiast's documentary about the SSDT, you were always going to be disappointed. As a programme designed for a Dave audience, I thought it was extremely good. Yes, it would have been nice to see some of the front-runners cleaning sections instead of just Ross falling off, but I think we have to acknowledge the difficulty for the camera crews. There were also a few too many shots of Ross's face from the backward-facing camera on the handlebars. The Parc Ferme running gag was fine as it developed slowly and rose to a crescendo. Master Chef? I'd rather stick needles in my eyes.

A Beta looks like a Gasgas looks like a TRS? To an unpractised eye, that's true. But going back to the old bikes, a Triumph twin looks like a BSA twin looks like a Norton twin. And a Francis-Barnett looks like a James looks like a BSA Bantam. If you're an enthusiast for a particular type of bike, the differences are obvious. If you're not, they're not.

I really can't imagine a serious trials bike with electric start. Weight is critical (for marketing purposes at least, even if not so much so for performance) so why add the weight of starter + battery + solenoid wiring? Also, modern bikes are so tightly packaged. Where would you put it?

Don't dismiss a 4T. My Beta 300 4T has oodles of power, pulls like a train at the bottom end and sounds lovely to boot. When people think of a 4 stroke, they always think of a Montesa, but the Beta gets lots of admiring comments. (And yes, I am a novice on a 300. With the 4T, it works.)

Which part of next-door-to-Gods-own-country are you in, al_orange? I too feel blessed with the number of events close to home. Having started off without a great deal of practice time, I've found the "Gentleman's Routes" are a great starting point. Go through the start and end cards and do what you want in between. With three events under my belt now, I try to do the full easy route but occasionally dodge a bit, either deliberately or inadvertently. I do recommend it. I've done trials run by Golden Valley and Bath Classic but you do need to be over 50 or over 60 to ride a Modern in their events.

I think you may have it there.

Usually, yes. But not in Betaworld.

I was muttering to myself about Beta bolting onto plastic while out in the garage the other night. The plastic shield over the gearbox sprocket is held on with two small bolts into the crankcase which (I think) also hold things together in the crankcase. And one of the two bolts holding the front brake caliper also holds the plastic disc shield in place. That's a biggish bolt (M10?) that's reacting brake torque so you really don't want that one working loose.

I understand the Mini Majesty was a little bit shorter in the wheelbase than the full-size 175, and straight front downtubes. Are there any other differences? How would the Mini perform with an adult rider (75kg approx, 5'9")? Would it be too light on the front on climbs?

I think you're talking about "referred inertia". This is effectively a translation of the inertia (or "moment of inertia") of the rotating components into a value that can be added to the linear inertia of the bike and rider. This is what has to be accelerated when you open the throttle, or decelerated when you brake. I don't see that it has any relevance to hopping a bike, and anyway the rotating inertia of a 250 and a 300 would be so similar that it would be unnoticeable.

My Beta 4T is pretty easy to start. Like all Betas (and a few others) the kick start is quite high. I find that if the bike is on a steep slope down from right to left, it's best to stand on the high side beside the bike and use my left leg. If it gets reluctant, the "hot start" thingie generally helps.

Not on a 4T, they can't.

You and me both then. I'm going to turn up the idle a little bit next time as I find a little bit of a snatch going from no-throttle to cracked open.