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scifi

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Everything posted by scifi
 
 
  1. Maybe you are just trying to be too good. As you say you are trying it in neutral, it will be completely different in a section, where there is some resistance to overcome. At the moment there is no resistance, so if your engine is well run-in there is very little friction to slow the flywheels. What are you expecting to slow the rotation down..? .
  2. Is the twist-grip free to rotate, or is there any mud under the grip..? If you release the twist-grip it should snap back to idle, and you should hear a 'clonk' from the slide in the carb. .
  3. It could be old or low octane fuel, causing a bounce back, by igniting before TDC. I used to fly model aircraft, and some glow-plug engines could be more easily started by bouncing the propeller backwards against compression, it would fire well before TDC, kicking the engine forwards. .
  4. It might have the additional flywheel weight... looks like a small discus. .
  5. Just looked at three TYs.... One has a 1.6 x 20mm narrow web, another has a 1mm x 45mm wide web, and the third bike has had it removed, along with some of the other frame add-ons ( for lightness.?). So take your pick... .
  6. scifi

    BSA C15

    Looking at what you have, I think you would be financially better off buying a secondhand Beta Rev3...! Just getting the gearbox sorted will be a big problem, as you will require the very slow first gear, also even if you can source the cogs, you will also require the Wide Ratio selector forks... Back in the day, the whole 8 cog-set cost £15, you won't find one cog for that now. https://www.bsaunitsingles.com/Archives/Owners_Manuals/C15 Gear Ratio Bulletins 1963 x.pdf Maybe better to build it up as a road bike, those deep valance mudguards are worth a fortune... .
  7. That looks a bit too slim to be a load bearing web. Could it just be a protection to stop you poking your fingers in the chain? Manufacturers are required to put guards on the input side of chain-cogs, for safety reasons. .
  8. The item with the most bearings is the chain. If you really blast every inch of it to remove the dirt, then you can be sure to have water in each of its bearings. So the only answer is to take it off, dry it for half an hour on a stove, then oil it and then wipe off any excess with a rag. .
  9. I was once a member of a 'Rights of Way' council committee, who used to meet quarterly in county council premises. As far as I could see we did not achieve anything, apart from drinking tea and eating biscuits. I brought up the problems of an overgrown bridleway on the top of a local hill, but nothing was done. The local cycle lanes were also a shambles, some of which were only 30 yards long. It seems as if the local council were only doing enough to satisfy the governments request to 'hold meetings with interested parties' and just that, nothing else. So although you might attend such meetings, the chances of achieving anything substantial, is really slim.
  10. My Transit has gone to an engineer who will convert it into living accommodation for a pair of hippies. Replaced it with a newish VW Transporter, with a slightly lower roof. I found some Transit body panels are available, but not the chassis parts. Thanks for the replies, .
  11. I think you should try to get the engine running before you strip it all apart, as that will give you some idea of where it needs some work. If you totally clean the carb first, ensure each jet is clear, and it is important that the O rings are a tight fit between the main jet and the float chamber, so that the float chamber is a press fit. Also expect the clutch to be stuck, after a few years lay-up. but at least you can check the gears, with a clutchless gear-change. I'm not too much into the cosmetics here, as long as it goes Ok that is good enough for me... Have Fun... .
  12. Hi Arbee, you probably know that you need to join a Club, so that they will give you an ACU license application number. The AMCA most likely has a similar method, and could suit your TY Twinshock, with Classic Trials. I have a few TYs,... you buy one, then ten minutes later you want another..! They are a really good bike for easy sections, and always start very easily. The IRC tubed tyre is the latest 'must have' and give excellent grip on rocks compared to the older types of tyres. Best of luck, hope the snow goes soon... .
  13. Although I only have the ty175 Haynes Manual, the figures should give you some idea when a re-bore is necessary. The tightest piston to cylinder specification is 1.6 -1.8 thou, and when this goes to 3.9 thou the cylinder is classed as needing a re-bore. These sort of measurements are not easily done at home, and need the machine-shop bore gauges... hope this helps.. .
  14. One of the specifications on older engines was the piston ring gap, usually 10 to 15 thousands of an inch. If when you put the ring in the bore, it was less, then you would need to grind or file it to that measurement. This is a very tricky job, as rings are very brittle, and two stroke rings have the locating pin, which means that the ring ends need to have that step included. There are also figures for 'sliding clearances' that the re-borer will need to know, but I suspect that the use of synthetic oil could reduce what is needed, also water cooled engines can have tighter tolerances than air cooled. The Haynes Manual gives some good information and figures for the TY50 80 125 and 175..
  15. Isn't it that one hole is countersunk, and the other three are flush, for location purposes...? .
  16. Your bike will also be tax free, but you still need to tax it, you just pay nothing. You can do this On-Line at the DVLA web-site, as long as you have the identification numbers from the V5 document. Also you will still need Insurance to drive it on the road. .
  17. I started in road trials as soon as I had a road license, at the age of 16, over half a century ago. Lots of the sections were mud-baths, where the skill was in finding grip with our worn out tyres. Some sections needed rescue crews with a rope, to pull each rider out of the bog. The team would throw a rope with a hook on the end, at the rider, and then pull from a safe distance. There was always a big queue at those sections, even though our trials were only one lap. .
  18. Yes 99.3% of riders will not notice anything. However what actually happens when you apply lots of power..? The chain becomes tight on the top run, which tends to lift the rear wheel, and make the bike squat. The push from the tyre, at ground level, acts on the centre of gravity of the bike, and causes the front wheel to lift... Wheely...! Some old bike had Plunger rear suspension, that moved the wheel vertically, as that was considered to be better. Some had rigid rear suspension, and could only be ridden by Yorkshire Men. .
  19. My Beta 300 has a very abrupt clutch, which I made a temporary cure by taking out two of the 6 springs. This however makes the clutch slip in top gear at maximum throttle. So I have made some stepped clutch washers, which just slightly reduce the clutch pressure, which I am going to fit soon. Maybe you need less spring force as well, so pack a small washer under some of your spring bolts, but not so many that the clutch slips in top gear. .
  20. Had a sticky cable on one of my bikes, and rather than get a new (expensive.) cable, I decided to try oiling what I had. I put the nipple end into a drill chuck and span the inner cable slowly, whilst dripping diesel into the other end. It took a lot of time and about 5 teaspoons of diesel before anything emerged from the bottom end. The first drips where really black, but after a few tries the diesel would pour easily down the cable. Then I put some normal oil down the top, and the cable was really free then. Hope this helps...
  21. Good point about drying out the main bearings, but this is a 4 stroke, so won't have had its crankcase filled with water like is possible with a 2 stroke. Any signs of life yet...? .
  22. We totally drowned a Sony Radio once, fortunately in clean water. We dried it with a hair dryer, then left it in the airing cupboard for a week, it then worked perfectly Ok. So as long as all the moisture is out of the electrics, and there is no muddy residue, you should be Ok. .
  23. Suggest you take them off and show them to your Bearing Shop, they will measure them Ok. Nearly all are metric these days, and go in even number of mm sizes. These shops mostly deal with ball-races now. When I wanted 120 individual 3/8th ball-bearings, they had to get them in by special order.
  24. Even one blob of water could cause those symptoms, as it will block the very small jets (maybe not the main jet.). Had a Commer Van that had a loose petrol filler cap, when it rained the water got into the tank. The van would slow, but there was sufficient time for me to lift the cabs engine cover, and put my hand over the carb inlet, to suck the water through the jets, before we slowed to a standstill. .
  25. Hi Zippy, that seems like a good idea. Does it mean you have events with more than ten sections..? I remember many years ago, that the only incentive to marshall any motor event, was that you got to wear a Doctor's white lab-coat and a Castrol Arm-Band.. Now quite a few events here have catering services, and the helpers get a free meal ticket.. i.e. a Beef-burger and cup of tea. ( I think having to wear a Day-Glo yellow jacket can be a big dis-incentive.)
 
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