scifi

If you totally redesigned it to be solid... don't the holes do something, apart from keeping it light ? Also I think the part would have to be heat treated, maybe even case hardened. Best of luck..

You could try a deliberate foot, and pivot around it, until you get the exact 180. .

Slowness is not really such a good thing.. You can 'throw' the bike much further in second gear, ( and even further in third. ). But it can get out of control so much more quickly. After a log you need to keep the front wheel high (with a blip) so that you land on the back wheel first. Maybe try jumping off a 'table-top' to get that part correct. What you are trying to avoid is going down a steep step front wheel first, as it will dig in at the bottom of the step, and chuck you over the bars...

I think you have just got to control what the front wheel is doing, and don't let it drop too early. Just control the revs to achieve this, and don't think too much about doing two blips. You could try riding over two or three logs spaced two-three metres apart, don't let the front wheel drop before the next log, just hit them all with the rear tyre. it's easier doing it than trying to explain it..! .

Thanks for the photos, aaarh yes I remember it well. You can see where the tube has been rubbing on the engine. They are not the best of Bash Plates for hitting rocks at any speed.... Try to keep the front wheel in the air next time !

My Yamaha TY175 needs its tap turned off when parked, or it gradually fills the engine with fuel. I forgot it one week, and the engine would not turn over as it was hydraulically locked. After much tipping of the bike, it finally blew half a pint of fuel out of the exhaust, which burned a 4 foot long patch of grass in the lawn. .

If that is the Bash-plate area, it is likely that the bend has moved the frame lugs apart. So if you hit it back with a wooden hammer, to give a 10mm clearance, then the engine lugs should be back where they started.. Any slight mis-alignment in location of the holes (~1mm.) could be eased by using the right size drill, cos you don't want to stress the engine castings too much. .

Hi Doc, If it is something mechanical, then it could be heat related, such as the capacitor breaking down at high temperatures... Or, it could be the contact breakers closing up... but you do say that there is still a good spark. The simplest explanation is that the tank breather is blocked, and a vacuum is building up in the tank, stopping the flow of fuel. Does it restart better with the Choke / Cold Start device? which could be a fuel supply problem. Best of luck...

Has anyone tried 'Plexus'..? It works extremely well on Perspex and Plexiglass, as it contains a plasticiser, which keeps the plastic supple. I have some that I use on wind-shields and visors, but I don't have any other plastic motor cycle parts to try it on. .

Hi Guys, I think with all bikes, if you lower the ratio, it makes using 3rd gear an option for some sections. Last year we had three organisers that give us a hill-climb type section, where a powerful 3rd gear was just right. Admittedly one organiser put a left / right squiggle in his graded hill climb, but as long as you went round that bit quick enough, the engine would not stall. (tried changing down on the corner on one lap, but that didn't work!). .

I think it is important that your ankle is really healed following your accident, give it a few extra months to fully knit back into place. If you need to foot at any time, you can be sure that the rock you put your foot on will not be dead flat, so you need the ability to angle your foot to the contour of the rock. Walking the sections gives you a good idea of what is where, and where you need to run at any steep steps, or jump down from those steps. .

Hi All, I bought my first TL125 when they first came out. Paid £299 to Bill Smith in Chester for it. Tried to keep it as original as possible, but maybe ground the steering stops away, and fitted an 11 tooth gearbox sprocket. it was Ok for all the types of sections where you could have ridden a push-bike around, but lacked any power for big hills or muddy sections. Rode it from Chester to Snowdon, went up the Pyg Track, throwing the bike over a stile, and then back home again, all on one gallon of fuel. When I smashed up the rear cush drive, It was finally Part Exchanged for a Bultaco 350, so I could try some of the Powwweeerrr Sections. Recently bought a second TL125, but this one is not so original, as it has side panels and original exhaust missing. .

I always thought that Resistor Plugs were used to reduce radio interference. So if you don't have a fitted radio, why use a resistor plug? The resistor used is about 5k Ohms, but as the current is so very small, there is not too much voltage drop. (V = I x R.) I wonder why your bike is going through plugs at a great rate? You may have a carburation problem. If they are burning out then the mixture could be too week, or if they are carboning up, then the mixture is too rich. If your bike is non standard in some way, then maybe you need to try changing the heat range of the plug, either up or down one number. Just seen your location, do you use leaded petrol. In the UK we don't have leaded any more, so wiskering of two stroke plugs is no longer a problem. However our Ethanol fuel now rots our fibre-glass petrol tanks ! .

Hi, I know this seems strange, but what CC are Ossa MARs? I have one that I have used for a couple of years, and always assumed it was 250, but could it be a 350? It does seem to pull very well, so how can I tell, without measuring the Bore and Stroke. .

Or.. Carry a brick around with you.... Only Joking.. Used to have the same problem with an old Villiers powered trials bike. If I couldn't find some sloping ground I would find a flat stone or log to use as a prop, and always park out of the way at sections, so nobody else would pinch my stone. Remember on the 3rd and 4th laps you might not have to park up, you might be lucky, and ride straight through. .

I have always ridden rocky stream sections in a high gear (3rd.). The logic being that, if the rocks are passing by at speed, you are more reluctant to put your foot down.. If you tried it in first, then each rock would be an obstacle, and if your front wheel drops in, you don't have the momentum to lift it clear. This technique can however result in some spectacular fives..! For the slow speed sections, you may need first, and use the clutch. So practice balancing on a stationary bike, and take your time. If the section has portions of slow and fast bits most riders will use the higher gear, rather than change gear in the section. Some Go-Pro video (perspective may be incorrect because of wide angle lens.) .http://www.gresfordclassictrials.co.uk/videos.php

I think it must have been the petrol, which was the stuff that was in it when I bought the bike. I tried some new fuel and so far I can't get it to repeat the problem. I know the seller was riding a different bike in trials, so maybe the fuel could have been a few years old. Thanks to all that replied. .

I suppose it's only a matter of time before electric starts are put on trials bikes. Enduro bikes have them, and maybe some Moto-Cross bikes. At the moment I am struggling with a vintage Bultaco 350 that is a bad starter, the kick start is forward at rest and only has about 80 degrees of travel before hitting the footrest. My TY 175 starts a treat, just move the kick-start from top to bottom.. Low compression and only 175cc.. Bingo.! .

If you are not riding sections, and just using your bike for trail and road riding, then you can increase the pressures quite a lot. You want to be sure that the tyres do not roll on the rims during high speed corners, especially if cars and lorries may be coming in the opposite direction. So for road riding in traffic, 12+ psi Front and Rear would be safest, and give a better rolling resistance, and wear. .

This is funny, depending upon the angle I view my monitor screen, the Insulator either looks dark black or light grey..! If it's light grey, then all is Ok, it is no longer fouling. .

Had the same thing happen on my Beta, sounding like a water pump bearing squeeling. However after it had stood for a week in the garage, it was silent again. I think the water acts like a lubricant, and can dry out after an hours hot running... Maybe the pumps are 'greasable' somehow. .

Something not quite mechanically correct here... Beta using a bolt to hold a plastic part in place..? How do they apply a torque to the bolt when it is bearing onto Plastic..? Surely the plastic will deform over time and the bolt will become loose. Hope it doesn't happen to mine...! .

I like the Sprite connection. In their day they seemed to be just what was needed, but sales did not amount to much. I suppose the foreign bikes with 5 and 6 speed gearboxes was what everybody went for, as they gave a choice of 3 usable gears in sections. I seem to remember trying out a Sprite MX bike, and it certainly performed very well. .

I think both mudguards should be red, not too sure if your rear one is original, can't remember the deep valance. Has anyone found that the front mudguard clearance is very small (10mm.).? It is worse if you use a 3.00 x 21 tyre instead of a 2.75 x 21. .

The second plug looks good so far. The difference in colours on the insulator is something to do with the position of the exhaust and inlet ports. .