section swept

??‍♂️

Bet you used a calculator ?‍?

I’m sure Roger Daltry would approve

You should try levering the pads back into the caliper using care, fill the gap between pad and disc then bleed brakes. Try the lever/pedal before removing packing pieces it should feel quite hard (steady girls). Now remove packing and try again, remember you are now pumping the pads back out to meet the disc. The fact that your disc has slots in it will not affect the lever/pedal feel.

Ah yes but also in the depths the air in your body compresses and can cause grief when you start to surface they expand. Because in a hydraulic brake system the air is being compressed the bubbles have more tendency to rise to the highest point or float if you will. Big bubble compressed down in size still has the same ability to float.

Yep looks nice and well modded ...enjoy that swinging arm!

Think you’ll find that they call it a stash tray....most yuffs ?‍♂️wouldn’t even know what an ashtray is let alone how to use one. Their ashtray is the floor.

Oh my goodness, just had a look at the AJG website....yet another place to spend loads of money....but blimey the things they make look so dammed good, I’m saving up now for some AJG therapy.

Do t put on the bike hang in your living room, it’s a thing of engineering beauty?. I wouldn’t dare guess the cost?? Even the shark fin has been provided...should help keep yer tootsies out of the chain! Don’t you dare scratch it! Does the rest of the bike look ‘trick’ or have you more AJG items winging their way to you?

Baneyers have stock piston at €375 Have you tried these people...? Another contact John Oldfield....Honda parts only tel. 02380 630326 Hope you get something to meet your needs? Forgot to add David Silver Honda Spares, have a look down the stock list on their website, prices are reasonable and you may just be lucky?

I must look more carefully at the year, of course the A had that fibre glass seat cowl a bit like a Rickman Metisse used to wear.

I give up....??‍♂️??‍♂️

This is a suggested figure to take some of the squidgyness out of the tyre so you can feel the suspension. I did say datum point did I not, then adjust those to. I know that the tyre pressures are lower than this but read what I suggested. Are you talking about compression damping or rebound damping, all will have an affect on the way the bike behaves. ? Let JSP have a fiddle and see what happens to his riding.

Yep most use it as it’s beneficial to the clutch, it’s life and it’s operation. Automatic transmissions can go through hell in some circumstances...car drivers being what they are. High temperatures are generated inside the box and depending upon number of selectable gears....epicyclic and clutches together with brake bands the fluid is more than up to operating well in a trials bikes primary drive. ATF usually is red or crimson. TQF might be almost clear but does the same job although it was a Borg Warner Ford spec fluid, it too can be used in the primary drive..Castrol actually recommends it.?? Your 80w/75 stock is as you say good stuff but it’s for those types of transmissions found in kin great trucks ? ?? etc I would not bother with it in my bike?, maybe use it in an oil can for chain and cable lubing and such like. How old is that stuff any way it does go off you know, each exposure to the atmosphere depletes a little more of some of the additive chemicals hence the pungent aroma that tends to hang around especially on overalls etc.?

That’s heavy vehicle..truck... rated oil...lorries, dumper trucks etc. Probably axle types too!

You mean 75W/80, GL specifies it as transmission oil...gearbox if you will; there will usually be a US Army spec number after the GL4 or GL 5. The old SAE way of grading oils is not good enough for them! The oil is not intended for wet clutches unless it specifies this in the info and that’s where you may have problems sooner or later. Fully Synthetic oil in the wet clutch may render any gripping force between friction plates as redundant so you’ll have a slipping clutch....bound to some cases where this hasn’t happened. Potentially there may be some chemicals in the oil that will attack bearing surfaces such as bushings and any phosphor materials in the box. The amount of oil contained in your bikes gearbox is not that large, so getting the right stuff should break the bank, yes it would be nice to dump out the oil after each ride and know you have a large supply. So way up all the advice and make the decision based on what everyone has said. Now you’ll be riding and wondering if all is well between those engine cases??? Is there any detailed info on your 10 litre container about the oil? ??

Get the bike onto some varied ground and have a ride over and around a few testy bits. Make one adjustment to the suspension at a time, this can be front or rear, repeat ride, note any I’m provement differences good or bad. If good then make another adjustment until you reach a point where no improvement is found but is now going away from useful. Do this stage by stage to both ends and you will arrive at some settings that will offer you more control and feel. If by chance you write down each setting you will have a reference point that will be good for dry sections, another setting for softer going etc. I’d be looking for three of the many changes to be my got to set up. If you think it’s too complicated then put all settings to the midway point, try it and go from there. Don’t forget tyre pressures as the tyre is in a way part of the overall suspension system, too hard or soft so set the tyres at 10psi as a datum and experiment with adjustments to these, note the affects. Don’t ride with any sharp tools while doing this set up stuff just in case you do fall off!???

It wasn’t meant to come across as abrupt, apologises for my phrasing?Modern oils are a mine field of different additives and viscosity modifiers etc, using the wrong type can cause damage to sleeve bearings, bushes etc. More importantly, those members on this website have possibly tried many different oil types for just the few areas on a bike and have the knowledge and experience to offer sound advice and help with choices. As already stated by previous replies to your query, it’s the clutch which may suffer from incorrect spec oils. If it were my bike then it would be using the oil as specified by the manufacturer, the oil producers name might be varied but not the oil spec.?

You really need to confirm these settings before goining any further: Valve clearances set to specification. Throttle body, air filter hose clamp not ovetightened causing distortion to TB housing. Honda put the various breathers into the design for a reason put these all back to standard, ditch any extra contrivances as unnecessary. Ensure all breathers and entry and exits are actually clear. Engine oil as specified and quantity correct. Fuel is fresh and fuel filters good. Fuel pressure to specification. Engine idle speed to Honda specification. No air leaks in inlet system or exhaust. No restrictions in air filter, system. Throttle cable adjusted as per Honda specs. Coolant temperature within Honda parameters. Cooling fan operates to Honda specs. Compression test to specifications, not guessed to be ok. Observations: too tight on the inlet and/or exhaust valve operating clearances will cause unsustainable idle speed. Coolant temperature above specification will cause erratic idle behaviour. Excess crankcase pressure will cause engine stalling and erratic idle behaviour. Poor compression will cause erratic behaviour at idle. Also poor performance in the mid range. In general it will probably come down to being something trivial being missed so be extra vigilant when making any investigations. Hope this is helpful and you get sorted.?

The aluminium fuel tank and seat base combined was a lovely thing when new, but after a while they used to crack around the weld area of seat and tank...not good! The first one I ordered from Mr. Miller arrived with a whacking great dent in the side of the tank. After a quick phone call a new tank was despatched and the damaged item returned...no quibble! They cracked because they were not as strong as the original fibre glass items.

That steering lock just stopped the willy nilly stamp marks being put on by anyone to totally confuse us all!!

Well we don’t have access to the amount of kangaroo skin that you Aussies have?

5/10 for the welding

So the oil companies invest millions in developing different oils, the bike/car/ lorry manufacturers invest millions in development to arrive at a suitable oil to suit their needs and then you want to ‘try’ a different oil....well good luck with that one. The oil specifications aren’t like shirt sizes they are arrived at by exacting scientific trials...ahem sorry about that....if you know better then you should be in the oil industry. Use what the bike makers states otherwise you will be wasting your time and money.??

There you go then!