bigfoot

Get the frame number and post it on here. Someone will then tell you the year and model.

Mark If it's for English I'd first re-read your above posts and focus on your spelling and structure.

B0llOcks. Very few SSDT sections are a piece of cake to a novice rider even arriving fresh. Arriving after a long moor run just makes that worse. A novice can however easily keep up a steady pace on the moors to remain on good time. Its hard work but usually not too technically challanging.

Only Dibs himself, Beta and maybe Shirty. This has been speculation for ages. Lets wait and see rather than start another thread on where he'll ride next year. If you search there are plenty of such posts on here already. Topic Closed

You need to be a site supporter and a bit of a dick. The site supporter bit's easy and only a tenner. Being a bit of a dick takes lots of time and practice.

If you like we can have it changed for you. How's fvckwitben sound?

You'll never get told off for promoting a site sponsor. The guys at Trials UK are a good bunch.

I think the problem is more likely to be the clutch master cylinder than the oil from your description. I'd bleed the clutch using the reverse bleeding technique (take the top off the master cylinder and push fluid back up from the bleed nipple on the engine case until no bubbles are seen and ideally you

Look at his other items.

Did you survive OK Donald?

Have you tried the voltage regulator? I had this go on both my 04 & 06 bikes. Simple and cheap to replace.

I changed my one before it failed as it was squealing so you could hear it 100 yards away.

My 2009 300 and lot of others I know start 1st or 2nd kick. I just thought I'd add this as it looks from the thread that they are all a B1tch to start. They do take a bit of practice to get it right and do take a bigger kick than all the other bikes. But don't be fooled in to kicking the hell out of it. Get to TDC and a solid push with all your weight rather than a big boot with the piston anywhere in the stroke. Like has been said above I have to start my bike for not gas gas riders wanting a shot.

This was all done on a 2009 GG so earlier bikes may differ slightly on the removal and refit process for the radiator and fan assembly. The fan motor change-out should be the same though. This whole process was easy and took about 45mins. The motor was £11 including next day delivery. Sorry but I can't work out how to put the pictures in the right order or place. Maybe Andy will edit it for me. Picture four shown the complete assembly and the new motor. Remove the radiator and fan from the bike. This is easy enough and only requires the tank taken off, remove the coil bolts, disconnect the CDI unit and pull the wiring out of the way to gain good access. Remove the top and bottom radiator hose clamps then the two screws holding the bottom and one holding the top of the radiator to the frame. Disconnect the thermostat wiring at the connector in the wiring loom and also the final remaining connector to the fan. The whole thing should now pull out to the left hand side of the bike. Remove the fan assembly from the radiator. This is pop riveted in place. Using a drill, drill out the two pop rivets being careful not to drill down in to the radiator matrix. Remove the water/dirt seal.Picture three This rubber boot is actually glued on so you have to peel it back the best you can and use a sharp knife to gently cut the between the body and the rubber to remove it without cutting through the boot. Remove the old motor.Pictures 1 & 2 (Note picture two shows how to hold the unit while punching out the shaft. It wasa taken after the fact so shown bottom of motor knocked out. This was the bit I was unsure about. Place the fan assembly in a vice and using a small punch (I couldn’t find one in the garage so used a ground down nail) hammer the shaft out of the brass bush. It was pretty stiff even after heating with a fine torch. In fact it was cold when I finally decided to hit it harder and it started to move. Part of the reason is that you are actually hammering the shaft out of the motor at the same time (i.e breaking it). There is no other way as the screws that hold the motor to the body are under the fan. Anyway it came out pretty easily once I was confident enough to hit it. Once the fan is out unscrew the two screws holding the motor to the body and withdraw it. Picture 5 shows the two screws that hold the motor to the unit underneath the fan. Unsolder the wires. Self explanatory really. Just unsolder the two wires and through the old motor away. Now reassemble in the reverse order. But before you start take note. 1. There is no indication on the old or new motor which terminals is which so I connected a DC power supply to them to make sure I got the motor direction right before I resoldered the wires to the new one. A 9v PP3 or 12v car battery would do if your stuck. On my bike the wire with the red strip was the positive but your may be different. 2. When you come to hammering the fan back on the new motor you MUST make sure your don’t just do as you did taking the old one out and destroy the motor. Make sure you place the back end of the motor shaft on something so that your hamming against it or you could just push the motor part hammering it together again. 3. Finally glue or silicon seal the rubber boot back in to place before refitting it to the bike.

Am I the only one concerned about this thing catching fire or setting fire to the surroundings? In 2008 a few large fires were started on the SSDT with burning peat falling off the front pipe of some bikes. A mate of mine saw one start. This is surely going to be much worse with the pipe being covered by a lot more off the rear wheel. I'd put money on one of these catching fire within the first few months. Other than that though I do like the look and fancy trying one.

Simple Just click the link button (next to the smiley) when posting and fill on or copy and paste the URL and text if you want the link to say something other than show the whole link (like clicky, or Here.

Where is Brian? Another ever keep in touch with him?

Doug and Dibs have both signed for 'Fruit of the Loom' I personally saw them both signing in the summer time.

Gas Gas 250 for 2011 nothing else comes close. The spec it great and only non Gasser riders complain about reliability. I'm on number 8 and loved then all.

I rode regularly with a Beta rider until a couple of weeks ago when he bought a 2011 gasser. The reason for the change was reliability. The beta broke more often than any other I've seen. Its a shame as Beta had a good reputation for materials and build quality. I don't know where all the anti Gas Gas stuff comes from I've always ridden gassers and the only problems I've had were self inflicted ones. Feetdown, I hope you enjoy the new bike and maybe soon change your name to feetup.

Red Bull, Star Bars and smokes Rollies eh. Team 'Red Star Rollers', 'Bull Bar Smokies' or any combination really.

Or the old favourite when seeing a pretty girl when out with a mate. Q. Marks out of one mate? A: I'd give her one.

PTB onn PCB Programmable Throttle Body

Morrison's or Tesco's stuff straight from the pump for me. Bike never misses a beat.