lineaway

Parts ordered and will be here Wednesday. Gotta love the American importer as he has always had everything in stock unless the factory was behind. By the way he will be the new TRS importer. Now if everything goes smooth, the bike will run like nothing happened. Ended up with a five day weekend to get my boy to the event. Helps that I work with five other trials riders!

Normally I might blame the Pro motor, but a double wrap around the countershaft sprocket, binding both the main shaft and the shift shaft could break any brand of bike. For some unknown reason my son has caused more damage in our yard than anywhere else. Plan to two day the parts in the morning, which gives me Wednesday night and Thursday night to make it a runner again for next weekend.

I made the mistake of taking off my gear to go score comfortably. I quit bleeding 30 days later. 3 layers of stitches, a drain and a p****d off wife. Turns out the old Beta starters are quite sharp. And my wife is still mad 20 years later about the bed sheets!

So I got going early this morning and pulled the motor with my son`s help. 2nd gear is the only damage, put`s me in a bind for our two day event next weekend. Hopefully have the parts Wednesday night.

Thanks, but this is far from the first Pro motor that I`ve been into. It started from this.

Yes there was a time I was stuck thinking that way. Seems about `96 I started jetting my mikuni`s with a 30 pilot. During my rev 3 years I even had a few bikes running a 35. Now a days the Keihin on the gasser gets a 120/ 50 combo at home. About 8000 I switch to a 115/50-55. Above 9000 a 110 main. At about 3000 feet I go back to 125 and 48. Also remember the bikes have come with too lean of pilot jet stock for many years now. And we are talking trials motorcycles.

My son goes for a quick ride in the front yard, endos over the bars, throws the chain and breaks the bike! All this evening and we have a two day event coming up next weekend. The chain wrapped twice around the front sprocket. Removed the shifter and sprocket and all is good? Not. Now a knock from the motor. Ten minutes later, I`m looking at the top hat and all is good which means I have to split the cases in the morning, so much for the 5 other bikes I planned of working on! I`m hoping it`s just the shift shaft or next weekend will be our first missed event this year. Till tomorrow.

Wpatterson is correct. Check the carb boot. That is a lousy tight fit and tears easily.

I would double check connections and grounds/kill switch. Also replacing the condenser.

If you were going down hill for an extended period of time, at an idle or just barely more you may have nipped the piston. (stuck the rings) Due to a high revving motor without enough lubrication. Every year we have at least one rider do this as we ride on steep ski slopes. PS the solution is you have to gas the bike going down hill.

Quit reading a book for jetting. I live at 6500 and ride mainly from 7000 ft to 13000 ft. Dropping a needle only at altitude without jetting does zilch. You go up in pilot jet size (Loss of atmospheric pressure if you have to have some logic) down on the main jet. Also riding at elevation is very hard on water cooled trials bikes as the cooling system cannot handle the demands on the motor.

You did not look before you bought. Trials bikes are very simple, same, same for many years and manufactures. http://www.sherco.com/tl_files/core/pdf/manuels/2012Manual_ST.pdf Close enough. First you need to ride the bike and break in the suspension. Remember the biggest thing in trials suspension is the front and back need to work together. Besides jetting a 2 stroke, they require very little maintenance. Funny how the 4rt crowd says the bikes reliable like a clock, but all they do is talk about adjustments.

If you unloosen the kick starter bolt two turns and then flip the lever out as you are starting it, it levers itself off the shaft. All in a few seconds.

The first thing you do going up in elevation is go to a lager pilot.

Really? You live in Arizona. Every rock and bush will tear a pair of wimpy trials gear in one crash. Let alone your leg. Buy MX gear and remove all the labels and pads. Better to slide than a trip to the ER. I hate to say, but I laugh every time a guy crashes wearing trials pajamas. Just silly in the terrain we ride.

Funny that was the first post. First thing is not to loose the small washer on the kick start shaft. You do not need to drain the radiator fluid. Just fold the whole case over to the right and tie it to the exhaust. You are looking for the kick start pawl (elephant ear to be locked up jammed or broke. Also the idler gear under the clutch could be bad, The original clutch spring bolts would strip the allen heads just breathing on them. A good wack with a chisel is the best way to loosen them. Good luck. Takes 15 minutes to do this. The hard part would be a gasket for the `02. It was different from all other years as a lot of other parts.

Are you riding trails or trials? Most trials bikes can be bottomed out easily, but an `84 is pretty old and though that is not the original shock.

You should have a 145 main and a 27.5 pilot.

So did Beta UK say they do not have a rebuild kit.

Well was it in or outside? If it has been months since you started it, not so much it ingested it as it just stayed humid enough to rust. I had a friend wash his bike at a National in Washington state and the next week when he started it, the mains just screamed. The bike was two months old and Aprilia was it`s name.

It could be the kick start shaft bound up. But the rocking back and forth should have loosened it up. I would try again the rocking, then remove the clutch side first to look for problems. Also did you wash the bikes afterward and not start them? The main bearings can rust up pretty quick that way.

I`d try the new Dunlop GP. I`ve used the old Dunlop`s for years. (But I ride large grippy rocks!) Team Sherco USA started using the new Dunlops this year with good results. Best deal I`ve found is here. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/

With the clip in that position you are as rich as the jetting allows. I would try a larger main and drop the needle back down. Some bikes just require more fuel than others.

I would put in a 38 pilot. So is the clip in the top notch or bottom notch. Ideally the clip should be in the middle range, so you have some adjustment if conditions change.

Glad I never came across the fool that uses Loctite. I have done hundreds of forks through the years and never used the so called special tools. The one that gets me is the gorilla that over tightens the fork cap. Which I usually put on hand tight. That way I know if someone else has been into the fork leg since I worked on it.