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I`ll tell you it was damn hard chasing the world round guys while on crutches in the Arizona boulders.
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When the wheel was locked, did you have free play on the piston at the M/C? That piston has too move all the way back to release.
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That would probably of been the Globe, AZ in 1990. You are in CA, ask Kip Webb, he was riding one that weekend!
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http://www.splatshop.co.uk/blog/2012/12/setting-the-float-height-on-the-keihin-pwk-28/
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You try the easy stuff first. A plug can go bad in a matter of minutes, especially if you have problems. A bad plug can make it spit and cough, which makes it sound like all kinds of issues.
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Try a new plug, then see if the noise is still there.
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I`ve always refused to ride a bike with the front brake on the left. The rear would not bother me as it will not throw you over the bars! Always amazed at the top riders that never changed the bikes.
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No, it is way too thick. It would cause a lot of clutch drag. ATF was usually used.
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I`m thinking my `04 Raga has been rubbing for ten years, still waiting for that leak!
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I knew I should have sent that!
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The only reason I said anything is you asked for this to be pinned.
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I`d wrap some two sided tape around the leg where the clamp goes.
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If the upper clamp is straight inline where the brake line comes through the fender brace it should never rub. Unless we are missing something here.
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Beta`s have always had this problem with the mikuni. Typical fixes were an extreme adjustment of the float, and or the vent tubes. With your long vent tubes, you could be causing this just by pulling a vacuum. Pull off the vent tubes and see what happens. Also check out the Beta forum.
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Guys is one of them. Front brake on the left, rear brake on the right!
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You have the gear timed wrong. This is a picture from Gas Gas. The gear rotates up clock wise in the picture. I cheat as I have one in my hand.
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The video does not show the correct timing. The timing is in a Gas Gas tech bulletin. If yours is working, close enough!
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Next time you remove cover. Remove kickstarter, remove case bolts, remove case, (Leave clutch line attached. leave waterpump intact.) Just zip tie the kickstater hole to the front exhaust pipe to hold the case. It`s less than ten minutes on and off. Always remember that thin washer on the kick start shaft.
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You only have about an inch to go up until you might have other issues. Like all the cables!
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http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/45829-handlebar-risers/?hl=%2Bbar+%2Brisers
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There are conversion kits all over the bay. Just had a friend do a ty80. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYDRAULIC-CLUTCH-LEVER-MASTER-CYLINDER-PIT-BIKE-MX-LV12-/140735772594?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c48177b2&vxp=mtr
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Sounds like you just need to fix your brake.
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