lineaway

After looking here.http://www.apexmotosports.com/montesa%20parts%20book/f-6.htm I would not worry about it. I was surprised the Showa had only one spring.

I would walk away from a non- running 4rt. Plenty of running one`s!

Did the 2000 have Showa`s? If it is Paoli`s it`s normal. Not all trials bikes are the same left to right.

From a dealer perspective Athena seals sell well world wide. Greater number of sales and profit. Almost no matter the brand OEM seals are usually better for the rider.

So what really happened, during the two wide open throttle episodes you blew so much grap out of the dirty exhaust to plug it up. My son`s Raga just did a similar thing two weeks ago. The perforated tube in the silencer broke it`s weld and the packing plugged it up as I tried to clear it out with the motor.

We`ve been running ethonal for many years. I have never replaced any main seals that were not on a motor that had bad mains.

How long have you had the bike and how many hours have you put on it? It sounds like the Bloke you bought it from was being a tight ass and only bought parts you can see. Just because the front is totally worn out does not mean the rest is junk. You can check the chain wear on the rear sprocket. You can visually see how much wear is on the rear sprocket. Trials bikes are run slow. The chain Gods are not going to frown on you if you just replace the c/s sprocket. This logic of sprocket wear should translate to every time you replace the main bearings you rebuild the rod. Ha!

You never stated which bike you have. Did you understand my question about the needle being held in it`s location? That also could have been the cause of the throttle problem in the first place.

Do you have the clip in the top of the slide that holds the needle in place?

If you are inclined, I would pull the clutch plates out for inspection. The reason they say not to use synthetics is the friction material would come off the plate. Gas Gas blamed it on the oil. Funny thing is the same people recommended Moble one for years before this warning came out. Putoline or Maxima light gear oil would work fine. I would just make sure you do not have bad plates.

The earlier rev 3`s Beta had listed the settings for the shock which was a great starting point.(Or just leave it there.) Pushing on the seat, both ends should work in unison.

You can get them a whole lot cheaper. I was just showing the style you need. http://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-93980.html

This is what you need. http://www.enerpac.com/en/industrial-tools/mechanical-hydraulic-pullers/bhp-series-bearing-puller You really got a 40 year old motor and not replacing mains and seals?

I seem to remember 100mm-110mm on the spring length. It is far more important that the forks and shocks work together, than worrying about sag. Also in trials it is better to be too soft than slightly on the hard side. Push down in the middle at the seat. Both ends need to work exactly together.

Being the bearing race was broke, the engine ran out of rpm`s due to the drag and damage. Besides the crank bouncing up and down.

What you really need is a 36 spoke tubeless rear rim. Keep watching Ebay or other sources for some one parting out. It`s not too hard to lace about anything up.

When ever you split a motor. Nuetral is the desired position.

Glad to hear you found the problem!

B40rt brought up a good point. A lot of after market seals have terrible stiction, so not so smooth a stroke. No matter how great a mechanic did the job, lousy seals can be a bummer.

Happens all the time, most likely left the petcock on when put away. I have seen the same riders do this over and over. Started today because the fuel dried up and the new plug. Good luck and have fun. Just make sure the petcock actually works and everyone knows which way is off.

Move your hand over a half inch and learn to relax. I used to bleed every ride.

Tough call as the Beta never free wheeled well. Also you did check if the disc is bent?

The most important question is are you getting full travel up an down?

Patience, plastic mallet, slowly work each end a little at a time. Do not damage the center case leading edges. Have the engine laying on it`s side, clutch side down. You do not want the transmission falling out. You can cut an old tire tube into strips that make great rubber holding bands for the gears and such.

Could be a shock bolt. Pull, lube, replace