lineaway

There are springs and plate available which improves the clutch feel. of course it`s only available in Japan.

The top riders use x11's.

The michelin is the best, nothing wrong with the IRC. If you find an 803 buy all they have. the rest of us can`t find them. LOL The TL01 is crap I threw mine in the trash after one event. And Dunlop knows this!!!

https://trialssuperstore.com/collections/engine/products/gasgas-shift-shaft-center-locator-and-spring This is the first part to check. that little thin piece of metal is designed to shear. The spring is included and zipped tied as it`s hard to install the spring. Its possible to weld this back together, just the spring is hard to deal with. Good luck, it`s probably one of these parts have failed. The top hat is the easiest to fix.

The weld broke on the shift shaft. You need to take the clutch off to get the shaft assembly out.

You might slow it down. It's awful fast with the stock gearing. Using a 9 tooth is the fastest choice. I prefer something in the middle. A 42 rear. I like a 9 and 38 actually.

With lean jetting the valves could be slowly fading with the heat. Try a compression test. Also the intake boot is prone to cracking.

There you go, it is not pressed all the on the one side

So I looked at your pictures. Show us how the pin sits in the crank from a side view. Most rods only needed 18 thousands clearance. Granted I have luckily not done a bul.

In case they have not told you, the pressure plate only goes on one way. On the clutch one of the posts will have a notch in the end of it. That aligns with a mark on the pressure plate. Good luck.

???? Is this some Ai crap.

Yeah, The Sammy Miller number system was very basic.

So did you fix the clutch? Posting about a front brake is not the same. LOL.

Yes, let gravity do the work!

Trailercamp the issue you are describing is you had the lever adjustment too far in which stops the piston from traveling its full range. You fixed a 27 yr old problem?

Remove the rear brake pedal comepletely. Use a phillips screw driver to pump it. You are far better off with a clear tube over the rear fender. The air will not move until the fluid is above the master cylinder about 8 inches.

Search on you tube for jim snell video's. He makes one for the clutch only. For 1995 thru 2001 models. You should be able to see what you are looking for.

My son runs elf. I run dex vi Go figure.

Let"s back up a little bit. Did you have the clutch apart?

I was passing a motorhome in Yellowstone on an xl 350 and almost hit a Grizzley that was running across the road out of my view. Scared the crap out of me. Luckily he was at a full run out of there.

https://www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/tire-change-equipment-c-327_331/tire-changers-c-327_331_248/discontinued-coats-220-manual-tire-changer-p-1865 I had this manual changer for over thirty years. Lubed every tire I ever installed. All trials tires I could usually mount just by hand. Street tires were just as easy. Some of those rock hard knobbies were still the worse. Wish I still had it, but I quit working on bikes for the most part. Just my own. With all my grand kids growing up, it's still would of been usefull! .

Walk into any tire shop, motorcycle shop, semi truck tire shop, race shop at any track. They all use some sort of mounting lube. LOL.

Don't need soap or water with mounting a tube tire except to test for leaks and to wash the wheel before you work on it. Edited yesterday at 06:09 PM by lemur The canuks must use Moose urine! Mounting a tire without lube is lunacy at best!

Is it a tubless or not? Just putting a tire on is pretty simple. Alot easier if you heat the new tire up first. Laying it on the dazh of your vehivle is the easiest. Some sunshine needed. Soap and water mix and lube well. Lots of vids on it. Good luck.