lineaway

The water pump impellor should have nothing to do with the head/ cylinder coming off. To be honest I never had to rebuild the 4 stroke beta thank god. We now ride Montesa.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116330877076?_skw=montesa+mh200+piston&itmmeta=01JCBJ8VY26YT4V0JAA595ZDTP&hash=item1b15dc5094:g:dAwAAOSwcCFm6vXm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkrnTzj2UbGziiRkQuuQYBoWIpbixYVJNUYrAa9JJbJtXtz2EWUiC5EyVVmsEUnfzjV1ofs50DSh7gRa0mQfgbYp1o5YBejKoHIbOgksb%2Bj8t4Td1hlI6NOECjNbW64rCXbHfD1zr0kS1FuPWodl1rXQxxw3O%2BxcrZONAnmtBq8mLaBci%2FWXCH7QbwXUy6A3R%2F3KKtxT0Sk0TQyUJMioT8UGhtv%2B4dkhm9l1j2Ka%2FFJ9tPus59qNSbxQWKHoo88nSU%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR46_o_LiZA

The coil is 30500-ML7-013.

Was it the coil or the assembly? Mind sharing which part number?

I started riding Beta in 1990. And still to this day Atf works the best. You can get it anywhere and its cheap. So change it often. TOTTY79 is correct that motul and other brands are more progressive, but that is not what you need in a trials clutch.

Being a Pro model. Anything is possible to be wrong inside. You are right wanting to fix it. A new transmission has to be quite expensive by now, or not available at all. I would pull it apart before any more damage happens.

Yes and no. The shifter can keep working with the tab sheared. But you are correct about a complete shift shaft. P.O.S.

If you look at that video. The shifter spring is held together by a piece of metal known as the top hat. There is a tab on it that can break and cause movement. You buy it complete with the spring. If that`s not the problem then one of the parts within the shift drum has broke. Which requires the cases to be split.

There is one on the u.s. Ebay right now. 165. With shipping. About 5 years ago they found a few hundred left overs that sold for 20 each.

Are you sure it's not a Grimeca master cylinder. Are you asking a dealer or just browsing the web. S-3 digit levers are easily available for Grimeca.

Maybe a 2001. Is the air box on the left side?

The 250/260 were very easy to keep running. My son has a 2018 300rr which has required very little attention. My 2021 301 has been a pain, but I am also picky.

I bought my tach, before my bike showed up. After 8 months after a bad weekend of the bike running like crap, I finally installed the tach. I have not had a problem since. My idle is set above 1800 when it starts and I do not touch the throttle until after it reaches above 2000. I would replace the plug. I also had to replace the plug cap as it was bad also. Yes we have had several bikes need a new fuel pump. All `22/`23 models, Good luck. Until you reset the ECU it will continue to run bad.

You really need a tach on the 301. I will let mine idle until it reaches above 2000 rpm. If you run the idle low it will run terrible. Follow the above video and reset the ECU. I went through that same issue. You just have to get used to this is a high idle bike. Always when starting, never touch the throttle and let the bike idle for awhile without blipping the throttle. I mean EVERY TIME. Once cold almost a minute, when hot at least 20-30 seconds.

It's a trials bike ment to go slow. Road speed does NOT cool it down. The fan will run most of the time, exempt in winter. What year is your bike? I luve my 301.

Not really, as the tire will spin and ruin the tube. Fix it correctly. A new tire can't hurt.

Jimmy Z rode our last event on his new 301 Montesa and had quite a fun day. The 301 is the only 4 stroke that does not have alot of engine brake Good luck figuring out what you want to do I gave up on the vintage, but I do love it!

I have lots of years riding vintage as I started riding in 1972. The TLR beauty queens are very tempting to own, But at the end of the day they are not a true trials bike. If you actually have a real TLR and not the reflex model they are barely a little better. All our vintage events seem to be dominated by ty 175`s or tricked out TLR200`s. Neither of which were competitive back in the day. I would go back to riding the Sherpa T. I have a good friend that bounces back and forth between his Honda and the Bul. He wants to ride the Honda, but it is very limited in the real sections. I actually loved a Montesa 200 for vintage, but got tired of keeping it running. Good luck.

On my grandsons beta sr 80 the front brakes were too grabby and he had short legs, so was crashing to much. I used brake pads that had been ruined by a fork seal leak. That solved his problems. And the pads seemed to get better as time went on.

You need a clam shell bearing tool with a puller to remove it. Or the old fashaioned way of breaking the bearing off and cutting off the remaining race.

Some times its better to say nothing. Sherco went to a diaphram clutch in 2017. The 2017 owners manual had the 2016 info. Originally the oil volume was 450 ml. Later on they corrected it to 700ml. It was a crap shoot if you ever got the right info.

Yeah, during the pandemic or whatever caused Sherco to drop all the original dealers worldwide, or so it seems. Not much info left before that. They had plenty of parts diagrams, but not much real info. You are searching for something that really had no real info. My son a a new 2012 and the owners manual was pretty worthless. Our importer RYP was great, but Sherco themselves worthless. Most spanish bikes were that way.

2017 is the year they went to the new clutch? Even Sherco was confused about quantity. Hopefully someone that has one responds.

This has been going on a long time. Try it without the gas cap. And if you can a pic of the routing of the vent tubes on the carb.

Starting with the 2011 model, the txt's went to a wider frame at the foot peg area, which gave it better handling. I recently bought a 2011 for my grandson for this very reason.