copemech

Yes it is, and if you must, HERE is a brief guide. You need lots of lube, clean things well, and be sure you did not puncture the band while fighting the tire, as this has been done many times. Band must sit perfect in the machined groove, and if you do not have one, the new bands with integrated stem are worth the skin! Get on with it!

The basic theory here is that the seals degrade prematurely due to the alcohol laced fuels. There is a test one can do, which may or may nor reveal anything. One can install a small clear hose on the trans vent line outlet below the carb inlet. With the bike running at operating temps, submerge the hose end in a cup ov water. It should niether suck water up the hose nor blow air out. If so, this vacume/pressure is coming from the crank area via the seals. There may also be some unstable idle conditions associated with this. The other side probably needs to go as well! Splatshop offers some Viton(resistant)seals at a small premimum cost. Worth it in my opinion!

Cheers, FYI, do not chunk the CDI unit! As stated, this is not normally what fails, reguardless of the rub through in the plug wire. The actual wire CAN be replaced, yet it seems that they use epoxy to glue them in! If one is very patient, a good nights picking away at things very gently after cutting off the wire at the base, will get you in there. There is a brass spike in the very center that contacts the wire core, and it must not be damaged. After all this pricking about, a new wire may me installed and sealed with silecon sealer. This is real wire, mind you, not carbon conductive material. Once done, good as new! Cost? TIME!

Nor would anyone else likely! They go back with the same as you took um off! Tight by hand, but no excess!

The stator set on full retard position will lead to excess exhaust heat, yet I would not relate that to a stator failure. There are pics posted in recent articles of proper range of positioning of the stator. Get your new cdi on and see if it makes a difference, first.

You would be well advised then to take the wheel to a local trials shop and let them go over it with you, as there are a number of subtile tricks to it, and you will be beating yourself to death if you are not careful, and will chunk it in the can!!!!! There are numerious articles on here and elsewhere, but if you gotta local shop(or experienced rider), it is money well spent, trust me.

SHOULD BE 450 IN/ 450 OUT! So if you are lot leaking it or blowing it out the vent, then it is getting past the crank seals and being ingested.

Caddabs, I had two bikes with that caliper that worked fine. I converted one, could'nt tell much difference but possibly a bit better progression and feel. The stock Galfer pads are the hot s--t in the dry conditions. I have gone to the ones from "Braking" for their overall (wet) performance, but they are not quite as good dry.

Nif, thanks for your kind words. As I can niether confirm or deny any of this due to the lack of experimentation, I think (as in those charts) it is the square edge bumps that are going to blow you into the high regions and pain zones reguardless of the fluid(did i say hydrolock) and this is difficult to test quantitvely in the field. Those Race Tech Emulators have been around for a while, and look of interist. I guess if they come in pairs, you could do two bikes. Liveo, The Sherco has used the dual side Paioli since '06 i believe it was. I estimate them to be virtually identicle to the Beta forks in the workings, although the legs are machined a bit differently on the outside, and I think they spec the levels and quantities a bit different. You lads keep us posted! I have too many projects already!

Yea, they should work, but you may have disloged the rimband. Don't take much!

Steve, I married his daughter! Literally! Ron, yes, the springs are needed really, and I wish others offered more options! And yes, Billy, I probably sound like a Texan, as compared to a Scottish Sheepfecker with all them gutteral rumblings and crap you do! Billy IS a good rider, far better than me as I am too old and laid back now. Muenster? Getting back to forks, I have not disected them, like many here, a non-issue of sorts, but I will not say they could not stand improvement. I am currently wondering about the things now that some things have been said, yet at the same time, I have other projects to attend.

I'm in! Send it!

Do I really have to doo all that, or can you just send me the rejection letter with the lipstick and perfume! On the official letterhead, of course!

Welcome!!!! There is a local trials club you know! You could take that thing out and actually use it for what it was intended! You may get hooked ! Add, it will save you a lot on what you spend on old cars!

Something for you all to play with--HERE

This is great, but nothing as compared to some of the punishment we put GI Joe through when kids!

Don't be such a Bick, Dilly! I think he asks some valid questions, trying to get everyone "on page". I stated(i think)early on that I thought the conventional rod and cone in the left was still handling compression damping(which is minimal, up to a point) in these things, and Livios response seemed to support that theory along with your suggestions. So, in an effort to get Nif back on the page(if you have not totally p****d him off by now) yes, this is the current understanding, to which I have no way of proving because I cannot put that leg into a suspension dyno, and I am far too lazy to take things apart just to look at them, and put them back, not really knowing WTF I am looking at and with no way of static dynamic testing.. Rebound is easier as I think Livio stated, through feel... I sell Propane(duh)! Work on Diesel Trucks, and Fast Cars! I have not had time or inclination to experiment here, as stated. I do not really know Dick, but I am doing his sig. other! I am just a dumb farm boy. But in an overview of the proposed theories here that I think I seen and read in this mishmash, I never really seen anything reguarding fixed orface hydro shock/lock, which is in itself a limiting factor in conventional rod/cone compression damping systems. This also explains mid stroke sharp edge impact harshness(high v/s)and is a limiting factor because of hydrolock of the impact. Put simply, you cannot move the fluid that fast through the hole! This may increase with thicker oil, yet reguardless, the factor is still there with any liquid..

I do not think these parts will interchange with the later model in any way, as they use a dual seal setup and the shafts are different on the latter. As far as price, there is no cheaper place to go. I always recco supporting your local dealer if possible, or TC Sponsors such as Trials UK or Splatshop which offer great support through phone or internet as well.

Humm, Livio, in trying to follow your thoughts here, and admittedly not havin analized thed things, am I not correct that the left(spring)side is still handling compression damping with a traditionl orface rod and cone? Has same minimal effect through the orfaces upon extension, which is negledgable as the other side takes over upon rebound? As at my weight, I do not neccessarily require heavier springs, I think my biggest bitch over time may be the harsh reaction upon compression over sharp edge bumps, usually at speed on the loop. Some can be a bit hurtfull!

What carb is onit? Normal new dellortos come with a #60 choke jet, but none of that should have anything to do with the running off choke, just need to insure it is clean. Pilot jets may be another story!

I would tend to agree, and save thi new rimband for a new rim!

To be honest, I am not sure what response one will get from the M/C croud on this, but having builta lot of clutch packs for automatic transmissions, I allways soak the friction plates for a bit, if nothing elst but to insure things are properly lubed up on startup.

Yes, many, as that seems the way to go and highly rated as compared to possibly some others. Downside here is time lost as compared to having exchange units in hand to isolate the problem yoursel.

Seems obvious that Livio has taken the time to do a bit of tuning and testing on these things. I would like to hear his results, even if it is all personal pref. Even within the limits of the basic fork, the variables here in tune with viscosity, levels and adjustments could run into the thousands!