copemech

I have seen enough bikes with loose bolts that three good ones should not be an issue if you are not doing anything crazy!

That may be the olly known photo of Bigfoot in exhistance! Are his boot filling wit water to make him more miserable on the day?

Mmm, wonder if it was the black tip on the needle in that year? May be effected by the alcohol in the fuel? Understand the new ones are coming with the Viton tips(brown) to combat this. Seems the possibilty exhists of the alcohol eventually eating up all the old nitrile components in everything?

I hear what you are saying, yet I doubt most would find this a radical change. As stated, should indeed put the things near verticle as you ride. Ryan will actuall go through the setup with Every rider, Every time at Every school! It is important if you Ever want to attempt moving the rear wheel, it gives you more room on the bike for steps and such, and increases your feedback as compared to a more rearward position. Gives you a better pull for a little wheelie when needed, which is often! He does not ride at the radical forward positions, he is kinda old school, yet he has learned the 180 flick on demand, yet he can just as easily pivot on the rear wheel a 180 effortlessly, old style! Not a prob!

For some reason, I have no desire to go through that quickly any longer. Trees are too hard! Hurt too much!

Put the last years undies with the skidmarks wit them and the ladies will bid! On second thought, maybe I can send you a hat, from Texas!

I do not claim to have originated that tip, it came directly from Ryan and is trustworthy. If you do not have them far enough forward, it can cause you some grief in advanced manuvers. Should put them actually near verticle after you are actually on the bike and running with the rear loaded.

It is not really that difficult to see spark on these things! The primary reason is that most are looking at a plug with a narrow gap at somewhere between .5 and .6mm, which makes it hard to see, specially in daylight. The damn things should throw spark more than 5-6 mm in free air, and will! If it will not, then you have a problem! Can easily be seen in a darker enviroment. This is all related to air density. As air is a natural resistor. So let us say for example that the motor has a compression ratio of 10:1. The ignition must at least be able to spark at ten times the gap in free air or it will not work under compression at ten times the electrical resistance induced by the increased density of the air, all relative here. Take an old car plug and spread the electrodes wide at 3-4mm and install a good grounding clamp on it, it is only half a test, yet still works! BTW, I have run the mon resistor VX plug at .7mm for years now, which tells me that they will throw spark for 8mm at least, because it has never failed!

hoses crossed? Need a new friend?

RLracer,Ron, has them pretty well worked out, you need the spring kit to adjust to taste, as the slides are just vacume activated against them. Not sure about the jetting. They are sweet bikes, nice and quiet too! Not at all sure about the current situation with there being a new importer for US Beta????????? How all that will pan out is yet to be seen, yet Billy T. is always a good test pilot!

I am sure you av heard from Atomant, yet the bugger has contacts you know! He could draw a quid out of Dabster with a kiss!

HL probably has a collection box of GasGas parts that have been found over the years! Friggin Addict, Baldilocks and Ham are just sitting on good stuff! PM those deadbeats! And surely there are at least a couple Aussies that could spare something! Send PA a PM, he is not a tightwad! It is kinda awesome in a way as these things go, even little things can get great attention and really help, cost is nil!

I will tell you now that most inexpensive digital meters will not read accurately at high resistances, therefore your error readings. Mine does the same even on the working bike, and I have not tried my best Fluke meter on them, but if you are trying for 3-7 meg ohm reads whit crap, forget about it! I am not sure even which ignition you are dealing with as you did not state. Is it Leonelli? Ck your connections and try another CDI first, then go back to your stator if you don't want to send it off to Bradfords for testing. In there somewhere is the ironic truth! No sarcasm here!

Hate hearing you are banged up again, Billy! As the saying goes, there are Old riders and Bold riders, yet few Old Bold riders! Intentionally doing stupid stuff beyond your limits will catch up with you, Johnny! Ride smart, stay safe is the motto here! There is plenty enough to go wrong without helping things along! BTW Billy, what do you know/think about the pulsed laser healing therapy? Thoughts on surgeons! They often screw up more stuff than they fix! Avoid at all costs unless absolutly neccessary! Billy will survive a year without a SSDT to beat him up! There are plenty of smaller challenges to be had. Would not even consider it if not 100%! Doubt he will listen!

Well, all I can comment on this is based upon my current condition with still runing the -2 spring set! Seems running the thinner ATF is neccessary, What has it been, over a year now and no problems, yet not using the cheap ATF, but rather the good Merc synthic stuff. I have no problems with the lubricating properties of ATF in either a clutch or gear environment, yet the clutch response will vary with the viscotity of the oil and the squish out reaction between the plates. For a stock clutch, the motor oil just seems to work better! Yet I am spoiled now and admit it! Doing the Dan Williams mods such as the Beta and a bit of well spent off time can really make a difference. Even Ryan Young was easily able to get full WOT pops out of my bike running the less springs at our outing in TN, and I could never attempt what he was doing with it! Yet still light and smooth. The ATF just squishes out better under the lighter spring force, and such, yet still all this not recommended for advanced riders, just the punters. Stick with the motor oil and stock springs otherwise. Mine has not STUCK from cold due to surface tention, either. Yet I still never trust it!

Agree, takes a keen eye on things to insurethe bars are off rather than the front being tweeked off center and twisted a bit. Much ck this closly and or try puttin a straight edge rule or summat across the top humps in the bars to compare with the top clamps alignment. If you loosten the clamps and brace, you can stand in front of the bike with the tire between your legs and tweat things round qiute a bit before re tightning things. I always liked the stock Domino bars as well,and can be found inexpensive.

Match made in heaven! Careful Baldi, old man has been practicing! He can ride, you know, yet he may yet talk you into carring a few spares round for him.

Sending you a PM with more good news!

Just pour your lube in a ketchup plastic squeeze bottle with the twist on pointy end! Squeeze away! Or just go HERE and get the good stuff!

He, he! Makes me wondre just how long it has really been since BOB came out? As with Slap, I have not seen it yet, since I do not OWN that channel, but yet, from the previews and such, I do not set my expectations too high. I think if it even comes near the other it has served its purpose in a sense of history that can be represented in this media. Like the song goes, "You should have seen it in COLOR" ,not a good thing for most involved. I cannot even fathom producing such, I feel humbled by those that would even attempt it! And although I have seen nothing, I hear this is Tom Hanks driven force once again behind this. The fact that he would even attempt it is a statement upon his driven self to give some clue to future generations. The costs, incredible! The risk, substantial! The reward, seems very personal.

It is sort of funny really, these fellows that just putt about and such ever get the bike into a hard run with some long climbs on the loop suddenly turn into a mosquito fogger once they ever get some real heat in the muff and all that accumulated crap lights off! Seems to me that keeping the mix and the running cycles correct is important! Blow it out! I typacally make it a point to do some hard WOT runs and get some real HEAT in things on every outing or ride. Rev the crap out of it! Blow it out! Do not be shy! Just do not do it on a cold motor, wait till the fan is cycling, then push it! Be sure it revs out! It seems the HEAT is what keeps these synthetic oils residues flowing through passage in the muff, rather than congealing and getting trapped! Takes some time to really transfer all that heat to the muff, and a few "drag" races up and down the field or road may be in order, in lew of a mountain climb under high loading. Most these synthetic oils were developed for REAL race bikes and perform well, yet also need to be treated as such. Thusly the rest comes into play. My thoughts,

Easier than a Beta, mudguard 3 screws, tank, airbox 2 screws and clamp, carb top and slide 2 screws, front manifold clamp, twist and pull rearward. I leave the boot from carb to airbox attached to carb and just loosten the clamp to airbox. Refitment is a bit trickey sometimes, push carb fully into front manifold till fully in, re mount airbox and twist carb body hard to left and reinstall slide. Only after test fitting the tank can you tighten clamps, they are a tight fit! If jetting is correct on the carb, the airscrew setting should normally come in at 1/2-- 1+ 1/2 turns on the airscrew and it varies on the day, so 1 full turn out to start. Anyones guess after that, yet that is the optimum design range for adjustability on a Kiehin it seems. An inline filter is highly recommended on these carbs!

I agree one should play it safe, which is why I stick to 80:1 rather than going to 100:1, although I have done it before. I suppose that if every pro and expert rider here can run that ratio without fail, I can as well, although an occasional hard run down the road or up a mountain keeps some heat in the muff to keep things flowing. Worst thing one can do is add too much oil then putt about all day. One must understand just how the excess oil lingers in the motor and exhaust to gain full appreciation.