copemech

No, if you look back through the pics of Hams vs 2K8, there is a definite difference in the finish machining of the cases, and also the slight inset to which he is referring, and found his stopping point "i hope" . No they will not go into that hole, hopefully you can exchange them with out difficulty, not sure where the mix up in the part numbers came from, but the seals should be fine I think. If not, I will consider a PX for something for him.

He he , this is funny! Should have kept your mouth shut dub ass! Andy once accused me of being LANE LEAVITT, with all his ISP BS! I just told him that I was short and had hair. All that went away for a while untill he came to Tennessee, where I tok off my helmet and pulled down the trousers! He has never questioned my credentials since!

Seems he did manage to fix it!

Snicker post! Happy B-day, that makes you TWO years older than me, for now!

Due to the popularity of the "Survivor" shows, Texas is planning to do one entitled, "Survivor, Texas-Style." The contestants will all start in Dallas , then drive to Waco, Austin , San Antonio, over to Houston and down to Brownsville. They will then proceed up to Del Rio, El Paso, Midland, Odessa, Lubbock and Amarillo. From there they will go on to Abilene, Fort Worth and finally back to Dallas. Each will be driving a pink Volvo with bumper stickers that read: "I'm Gay," "I love the Dixie Chicks," "Boycott Beef," "I Voted for Obama," "George Strait Sucks, "Hillary in 2012" and "I'm here to confiscate your guns." The first one to make it back to Dallas alive wins! I doubt they will need to hand out the purse

I understand your referance to the older bikes, yet on the modern bikes, the timing really does not vary once set. The factory settings are generally a tradeoff between performance and ridability, and from my experience it gets much more into personal pref from that point. With all my tinkering, I have not reall tried to put numbers to it but once, and found it mostly irrelitive. Referance marks on the stator plate are much more relative. Add one might find that he could advance the timing just a bit(2-3mm) or slow it (6-7mm) within a limited working range that suits you. My experience on the Sherco(very similar to the Bets in most respects) suggests a change of 2 or so mm on the plate (wich roughly equate into degrees of angle) are required to find a signifigant(noticable) change in the performance. So lets just say that you have normally about 10mm within the stator plate range to play with, or roughly 10 degrees of angle in 2mm increments. Neverming mm BTDC, as this can just get too confusing and way too sensitive as you come close to TC and you will dirve your self nuts using that method. If you want a slower bike that is more managable or a quicker bike that kicks back and stalls more easily, it is up to you to decide, as I do not know of a perfect number in degrees or mm that will satisfy you or your riding! Pick your own poison, but that should give you a much better idea!

I agree, we need to have one of each sent to Dabster, for a totally objective and un-biased opinion! A nice little 250 version of each should do! He needs off that BBBeta for awile anyway. Maybe someone could make some calls! Ello, Malc?

You may want to take this time to do a bit of pre-fitment to the bike. On my '05 bike I had about 8mm clearance between the vent and the muff with the Kiehin, partly due to the way the carb was twisted in the flange to obtain clearance for the top of the carb against the fuel tank. My bowl is currently hard up against the rear br brake res preventing it from rotating more, and the top is hard against the fuel tank on the '07. It is a cram, yet I don't worry about the vents now. Other thoughts on an ally 90 angle, a common t-handle tapered hand reamer may work to get a proper interferance fit, specially if aided by a dab of sealer or epoxy. I would stay away from any long tubes(Jamie), I prefre no longer than the bowl. This(hopefully) allows minimal negative bowl pressure produced by any trapped fuel in the hose. It is an odd thing that happens, but a droplet in a hose can be similar to an air bubble in a way, and difficult to move! This works against the bowl pressure and can have very negative effects. Change the jets Tony! Try 42/ 115 and see what you get, needla in the 2'nd groove down.

Once again I am unsure exactly what you have done? The seals listed for the 125 are M219, size 25-35-7 The ones for the 2.5 and 2.9 are M032, size 25-40-7, a 5mm difference in OD if the numbers are correct. You Cannot install one, yet I suppose if one did try to pound the thing into the 5mm smaller hole it would indeed still protrude just about 7mm outside the case! Just send them back id they are not damaged, although I am not sure if you beat the one to fit or not! I think Neo knows if these listed dimentions are correct or not. Hell, at the rate these things are going, I may well need some soon myself.

Copy that in ally now, so you don't melt it!

Bout time, you could have washed it! Get it done man! Are you getting the alcohol induced fuels as well? I seen no scribe marks on them shafts, so you have the holers I would guess. If nothing else, you might mark them for future ref!

Well, I think you see what may be going on here with what appear to be dual single wire magnetic analogue pick ups. There may indeed be a A/D conversion in the black box, but nothing even resembling a digital hall effect(3 wire) here, and I cannot even fathom how they can claim that otherwise. Yet it is what it is, and applies to Beta and Sherco , although I cannot tell you the current Beta system because I have not looked! I can only suspect that the dual pick up systam must be rate based(rpm) between the two sensors to establish a proper curve within the range. My impression is that the older Ducati system as used on both Sherco and Beta was a single pickup design. All hypothetical as I have run no actual tests! Anyone got a spare ocillisiscope to get a few actual readings?

This guy has way too much time on his hands! I want to see the crash site pics!

I did see a nice write-up on the trials.com.au site, under the trials talk forum thread. Could not make the link work though. Ck it out! The more I think about all this, trials bikes are like women, except cheaper to operate and trade off. You got fat ones and skinny ones, some are more comfortable and some are high maintenance. Some like to take it slow and others are ball beaters! You got the black ones, the white ones, the red ones, and the yellow ones, then you got the blue ones that match mine!

Na, you would have to cross the border to Canada, no big deal for you!

I have studied this issue in the back of my mind for years now and have not come up with a perfect solution. Even flaps, like the Beta go to hell in no time, thus I have not drilled the airbox. Seems one cannot invert the shock on the '07 as clearances do not allow, although I do agree with him and would do it. Not out of line with Daves suggestion with the rubber boot, I do believe a similar product could be easily fabricated out of a thin waterproof Nylon material that could easily be tied at the top and left open at the bottom of the spring for breathing, yet dirt mud deflection. This may take a bit of doing, yet is my current thought, short of any flap things. Maybe I need to buy a sewing machine? The ongoing test of the '07 has not produced any leakage from the totally exposed shaft and seal area as yet, but I do consider it a time bomb in mud conditions. Bottom line, can you keep the dirt away from the shaft and seals? Have something you can easily slide up to clean and inspect? Easily replace due to abrasion? M2C

I cannot imagine why anyone would overlook them as a clubman bike. Reports are the 250 is near Scorpa smooth! And it has all the garb.

I have found this process goes better and quicker if you warm the bike so the oil gets flowing, and lean it way over to about a 45 degree angle to drain fairly straight out and not make a big mess on the skidpan and the oil will track nicely into a small, cut down 2L pop bottle! I lay it WAY over to the point the bar end is at knee height and supported, but it does make me have to kinda slide in under the bike to remove the screw and find proper placement for the cup. No big deal really, as makes much less mess in the shed.

Ok, so if you did disconnect the regulator thing (rectangular) and it workes and runs at normal speeds that increase with revs, then go for it! They do not cost that much as I recall.

No, I think you have it correct unless something has changed, yet I was not sure if they were putting a tube on them at all, as at least on the US bikes I have see with Dellortos, the long hoses were totally removed several years ago. The biggest thing about single vent is not dirt and dust as Neo suggests, but mud and water as well. Dirt and dust may eventually find their way into the bowl, but mud and water can shut things down right now! Unlike a system that needs to flow at high rates, angles are not a problem. Even the factory ports are drilled at right angles. The bowl are simply needs to breath a bit, reliably, to accomodate fluxuations in level and vapor pressures, and is extremely sensitive due to the fact the entire operation is based upon pressure differential and the ability to "suck " fuel uphill from bowl to intake which requires a balance for proper regulation. As Tony suggests, a nice little 90 degree insert similar to the dellorto would be nice, yet the required thickness of the material may prohibit doing this out of ally, as the material thickness provided by the exhisting cast nipple does not allow for much expansion. However, some bit done in stainless with a wall thickness similar to the brass tube and on a taper fit would be just about right! Go for it Tony! Remember, the ones on the dellorto are pretty small ID, yet there are two, soI am totally unsure if only one would suffice.

And you see , this is where I am unsuer if they have even modded (drilled out ) the carb on the cabby to run dual vent at all, and if they are just running the one tube on the muff side and or a looped over(or blocked) overflow tube, you get into trouble.

Oh, I think I understand what was done now. Disconnect the regulator entirely(rectangular thingie) to see if the fan runs with the thermo switch bypassed(connected together). If not, replace the rectifier(squarish thingie). Ck for proper earthing on the rectifier first. You kind of have to get the fact here that both fan and lights are run off the yellow wire from the source, which is AC power being provided fron the maggie. The fan requires a rectifier(square thing) in circuit to convert the voltage to DC,(which excess is shunted back to earth) and the lights could care less really! The lights require a regulator(rectangular thing) to keep excess voltage from popping lamps and stuff(whisc is also shunted back to earth), so it must have some limit, the fan could care less really, it will just spin faster at a higher revs and voltage, to a point, not to overstress it, it still has its range, but at low speeds at idle, this would not be an issue for testing to see if the regulator was shorted and taking the entire system voltage down to unworkable levels. And if now you have a better understanding and actually manage to fix something here you must now send beer money via paypal, an if none of this works out, you are pretty much knackered! There are no discounts provided here! There you go,

I do not understand? If the fan runs when the thermo switch is bypassed, then it is the switch.

Alexz is such a trooper he is!

That is correct, in that the needle range should take effect at about1/8 range and may effect the smoothness of transition by dropping it. Yet on mine, I pisked up the pinging a bit too much again, so I settled for second groove, which seems ok. all a tradeoff it seems!