copemech

I did run a check sometime back on the factory installed 6mm case bolts on my bike. I have always tried to be a bit cautious about running these bolts in ali threads. It seemed to me that these broke loose and came back to torque at about 75 in/lb and these had not been disturbed or treated with grease or anti sieze as I will normally do the outer cover bolts. These such things I will normally just do hand tight using a short 1/4 drive ratchet by hand tight and feel. I just mark the crank nuts and put them back in place or just slightly beyond using an air gun, much easier than trying to hold stuff and pull that much torque by hand. Must be gentile!

Makes perfect sense to me! Even better when my A.D.D. and couple years of speed reading training kick in, I just get so bored I must scan it! I also have pornographic memory skills and excel in "name those tits"!!!!!!

Primary tips!!!!! Cleaner the better! Get a can of brake cleaner that dries quickly with air! Clean smooth bores with no corrosion. Use the brake fluid as an assembly lube, lightly, to assure no dry internal workings that could damage new seals. DOT 4 fluid!

Obviously you failed to save that list I worked up sometime back! So did I ! 96 in/lb on the 6mm bolts, 72 ft/lb on the crank nuts= for dry threads and reduce accordingly for lubricated threads up to 20%. From memory!

You will really like these new bikes! Hook up with a few of the guys up there, they will scare you to dea,,,, uh ,I mean, show you the ropes! Don't even try following Jerry Young till you practice a bit!

Nuts!

Yea, I like that! I need something like that for all that ITSA crap now that the AHRMA is tits up! Never liked their rules anyway, can we get some real brakes now for safety if nothing else? I'm sure that would bee too much to ask! Have you ever tried to stop a Bultaco? Just nuts! I really like all this old crap iron, but it does remind me of when I was young and Really stupid, we have better stuff now in this decade, or last decade for that matter! You are just too young to remember just how bad that stuff really was. I had a disc brake on the friggin '72 Yankee for gods sake, this is not new technology!

This is not a good sign! I would recommend the Beta forum as this could get involved!

Agreed, no ransoms, no negotiation, shoot first, ask questions later! And now they threaten to take action upon nations who do not tolerate them! They have the right of piracy! Is is an open sea is is not! Free for the taking! All we want is your money! What a crock of crap!

Had my quick spin on the 290 Evo at TTC couple weeks back, worth mention as this thing is a real torque monster! Smooth and linear, yet seemed to just build to shoulder wrenching power at revs! This thing will accererate with awesome quickness! I did take another spin on the 300 4T, all I can say is it could be the lawn tractor of choice for many SR experts, just sweet! And lots of go when you need it! Can get Really good! Also VERY quiet! I think I recall someone stating that the Evo's steering radius was almost too much, well, this could be true, as I was finding myself having to be careful with that, as not to pitch myself upon my head! M2C

So once the act is done the military just stands back to watch? As if the rules of engagement have not been met? We have not witnessed any direct aggression? Yea, I'm gonna try that with a Russian ship! But of course, they are the ones supplying the AK's and RPG's! Go figure!

The German (Wenol) works well!

This just goes to show they should not put those things on bikes!

I will give a dollar if you promise to retire!

Hindsight is always 20-20! Some seal seats can have sharp edges or burrs, chamfer edges lightly as needed, and depending upon the application, some lube or even sealer may help prevent tears on the outer sealing surface, too much friction when dry! I have knackered a few in my time! Oh yes!

This language thing is difficult for a Texas Redneck to overcome, Lian! Ok, here we go! 1-Some rattle is normal. They tend to rattle a bit more when warm and the oil has thinned a bit. Pulling the clutch in usually reduces rattle when in neutral. 2- If your clutch is dragging to the point that it is difficult to shift when stationary, even with the lever pulled to the bars, you probably need new clutch plates! 3- Adjust rear spring nuts so there is 20-30mm sag with the weight of the bike only! 4- Old cylinder head o-rings and cylinder base gaskets should be replaced if disassembled! I could not get video to work! Hope that helps! Oh, ps- Do not expect the motor to respond well cold!

I try to change mine after 8-10 hours of riding(2 trials) and it can get pretty dark! Yours is likely normal!

Mine says VNBS, possible drunken Spanyards again!

So where did the fluid go then? If you remove the muffler you can manipulate the master cyl enough to crack the banjo bolt and get air out.

I read through that post, good but a bit scetchy, He almost admits the demise of the rear spring due to his fat ass! He thanked Sherco for the tight steering lock, unfounded with a different frame, and I seen no bash on the front suspension! Not quite sure what it is now, still their own or not? . Time will tell, as I cannot knock the basic design, very functional.

In these boom and bust areas, it just seems to me they created their own problems, the easy money creeps made a fortune, now they are out of work. The big headline yeseterday was "Home prices may never recover"!!!! Well, guess what, that is all because it was BS to begin with!!!!! How anyone could ever afford a median priced $600,000 house escapes me! As the taxes alone would kill you! Simply un-sustainable! Makes that cheap beachfront property in Arizona look really good and stable ! Specially after Cali sinks into the ocean! College costs for one kid are crazy, and doubt I could afford any more! One poor bloke at work just had twins! He is 48 years old now, good luck on that one!

From my experience, heat helps make the ali things give more than off cold, as they will easily crack. Be gentile! But you need good heat up to 5-600f, not just a hair drier!

As a quick ck, pull the pedal and loosten the master cyl enough to remove the outer boot and inspect for fluid and dirt entry. If there is evidence of fluid and dirt entry, the seals are gone on the MC. As a sidenote, I pack this area with silecon grease to prevent corrosion, dirt and water entry, seems to work. I will also add here that my bronze bearing on the pedal has held up well over time and the pedal is still tight with good feel, as compared to those little rollers that go to crap in no time. I may need to get more of these if others want to try them, or enough demand. I peddle(pun) these here, only upon an experimental and non-profit basis!

I'll bet Tommi showed Pat how to do that nosie wheely right up to Craigs balls, so he got a little rub! Lay down again Craig! We're having fun!

I admit to being a bit stupid on these things, but what is wrong with that bike? It has two shocks, air cooled and drum brakes? Looks the dogs to me! My feeble mind has always envisioned something like this with disc brakes!