copemech

Even at 41 and 412, as compared to the 82 and 620 specs, the numbers only sound scuwed, possibly by the meter! Doubt both coils would fail at the same time. If you have had luck with the bar switch off, I would test it in action again. I hate those things! To be honest, I would do away with the map switch, myself. Cannot tell much difference anyway.

I think most the pics I seen there looked very natural and would giv a good sense of the envionment in general, for say a club meeting or such. You always need some of that If I am able to photo a actual trial, I will usually try to find a well lighted spot considering the sun and angles, where most riders must pass and I can get close enough to get indivuals faces and such. Not neccessarily anything special, just a good shot of the individual coming accross something. Some action, yet ? Not easy to meet! Some fill flash can be key if you want good shots, as otherwise oppertunities are limited. These can leave shadow effect. I met Lee a few years ago now, at the WTC in TN. Top lad in my book! Would like to see him him back here sometime!

I have found some specs, yet cannot copy and paste them. Seems everything on the stator side of the wires to the ignition unit(disconnected) refences to the white wire(common). So tester (- neg) to white, the rest: Supply coils Green 620+-60 ohms Red 82+- 10 ohms Hall effect coils Brown 3M-7M ohms Black 3M-7M ohms Blue OL or more than 10M ohms Yellow 0.9+- 0.2 ohms (this drives fan and lights) These are ambient temp specs! The newer ones with dual map and eight pole system are only slightly different with the supply coils measuring: Green 550+- 60 ohms Red 65+-10 ohms I have no specs on the control units at this time, but would suspect they would also ref off the white wire as a base!

I cannot think of any specific tests, yet as 2T's are different in the fact the intake fuel charge mist is exposed to a lot of COLD rotating mass inside the motor, logic dictates that a portion of the vaper mix is likely to condense upon the cold surfaces through normal exposure. Add the fact that our now common fuels are basically designed for CARS, which are primarily directly injected so they do not have this problem. Add to all that the fact oils require more heat to properly ignite and burn off cleanly, then you may get your transition range of the oil added too the initial cold start. Seems to me that keeping some heat in the motor is a prime consideration for performance before attempting sections, as they will not clean out otherwise. Most Pro's just rev the crap out of them to get heat in them! FYI, the Serow started and ran quickly today after sitting more than a week with fuel off, so there is something to this theory for sure, yet probably less applicable to the 2T's, still applies!

Confirmed!

Yea, all that Montesa unobtainium gone to waste?

WD40!

That stuff may well work on a muff of something low stress, potentially even a cracked rim? But I would never rely upon it is a high stress application, as even the best Tig welding is limited in its applications. Much depends upon the base alloy, as some things such as the Ergal skidpans and footpegs! Well, forget about welding, junk it!

Yup! That looks like it is sealed, or at least painted well!

Sounds to me the lads have pretty much covered it. Seems pretty normal, much of it just seems to me that the combustion process just does not happen well off cold and without extra enrichment. The fuel does not stay atomized well. Other things like transporting the bike and the resultant sloshing could spill some excess into the motor. I always turn off fuel when transporting, and have seen some that will cut off fuel and run them down even before transport as a precaution. One thing of recent note that I have encountered on the Serow 4T is the fact that if you let it sit for days or weeks, it WILL NOT start even off the choke, will crank till the battery is dead! Requires a shot of starting fluid! Then still VERY cold natured requireing the choke. Reading up on this upon the Serow forums, seems the theory is that when left set, all the high aeromatics in the fuel left vented in the bowl vaporize off, leaving a fuel that just does not want to combust well untill the stuff is run out and fresh fuel in. So the recommentadion is to run them dry before setting. I can attest to the fact that the *******s will not start and am running that theory, yet have not started mine in a week yet. If this common theory is even remotely correct it could well apply to the 2T's as well, so that initial fuel remaining in the bowl just does not work well and must run through before things are right, yet the 2T's may be a bit more tolerant and still start. Something to think about!

Ok, I admit to being a cross between "B" and "C"! Why do the folks I work with think I am Jewish? I am simply utilitarian!

Although I typically have not ever been attracted to Harleys, I did a lookup on that bike! Seems quite sweet from the looks of it! Euro version only, the first year? Wow! So it will run with the Ducati's and the CBR' Hondas?

I think that is quite impressive if you can bring those old shocks up to working order. I would never think it! Hopefully the shafts are ok? Where do you find phosphoric acid in a usable state for ali? And or what dilution? What results do you get?

Nice! Do you know Lee?

Do you use the 70-200 primarily? Is it the expensive one?

God, I cannot even recall what a "ct" really is? Probably not worth converting though. Dependind upon where you are located, probably some Yamaha TY's or pinkies to be had at a good price! Best advice, find a real bike I think! Enjoy!

All that info makes me wonder how much money they wasted just putting together more info than most can digest in one manual? We cannot control objects size of mexicans with truckloads of drugs crossing the border, and you want to get into the screen size of spark arrestors at .024 no go! What is wrong with this picture! Friggin idiots!

Then we can all meet out in the woods somewhere, secretly, like we currently do, and instead of the KKK, we can be the 2TK! I'm in! We can all be niggardly tightwad cheap ass trials riders, everything is normal! Trials is darn near as much fun as the rooster fights, till the damn animal rights activists got hold of it! Do we have any rider protection programs in effect that we need to violate? Screw them!

Mmm, a quick skim through tat large post did not find it, but I did see a comparison item between Kawa and Bulto! Maybe where that came from? Later!

That is Xtreme cool! Now I need the glasses!

None of that is magic, just preloaded events, quite interisting though, too bad they did not burn down the house! Or blow it up using the gas valve! Most engineering students are that way!

It just seems to me that the basic problem in ohming these things out is the fact that you are not neccessarily able to catch them in a "failed state" due to either to the internal or external operational temps of the components. In Borus case, it sounds as though there is a failure of the charge or trigger coil under operational load and developed heat. By the the time you can test them, things resort to normal readings! Crap! And with no schemata, the fact that Borus still has voltage at one point(charge) does not mean that he is recieving it at the other(trigger). I think the trigger will be a low voltage signal to the controller. I know from grabbing things that the kill switches can have some high voltages on the primary side of the coil, possibly 60-70 volt range. They can really shock you! I am just rambling thoughts here as i have no operational referance to go by, yet logic still dictates (hopefully), but really, some ocilliscope readings would be helpful under operation, and may reveal something. Not that I haveth stuff to fix it anyway!

Robs findings may well be the key, yet I am not sure of his exact process in doing the pressure test, he has the right idea! I do not know if his has ever been overhauled, maybe not! And it does get ridden, it seems he can ride experts on it! Although i do seem to recall at least one bad incedent when this thing cut out on him about halfway up a near verticle 8-10 ft uphill! I would be interisted to know just how much the flywheel moves up and down on that one? Put a dial indicator on it! May surprise you!

This was posted up on the Texastrials site! Looks like a BulDaka to me! Beauty!