copemech

Some things can be straightened and welded, yet that does not sound the case here. Best to replace the parts, as the bike will tell you it does not like them!

A TY of that vintage would be a desirable bike if in good condition. May be just the ticket for your putting about. Reliable and seems parts are available. Has a real seat! Hondas of that vintage are slugs by comparison. Neither compare to a modern bike. Extra 50 lbs in there and poorer suspension. But they will perform! If the tank is good, preserve it by installing a Sammy Miller glass tank and seat to trim down the bike, stunning difference. Goog shocks help as well!

Is it now?

That small bottle will not do much at 120 psi!

WD just works on a low speed trials bike! Tri-Flow works better

Never could bring mesel to ride one them lead sleds on the road, but it does make me want that KLR I have been putting off for a few years!

Drilling? Gas wells are abundant north and west of here with the frackers. Nothing local to me. Seems to me once you leave DFW going west, there is nothing but endless miles across the scrub and desert. Takes a day drive just to get out of Texas at El Paso. Southern NM and AZ, more desert, another day! I have been to Flagstaff and I liked it as it stuck in my mind as a nice place, hope they have not ruined it!

The time draws nigh!!!!

The new ones will have the Ossa FI system with the RIEGER GG shock and a new ali frame by Beta!

Just come to Texas, it is half way, that way you have somewhere to go when the wife kicks you out again! The riding sucks, but the women are better looking!

Try Splatshop

Sounds to me as though some rocket scientist has this thing all screwed up! Yes, the pump is there for a reason, and if float arms are bent and such you have more issues. Floats can drag the overflow tube and such causing binding, God knows what they have done? Not sure your location, but I might suggest you send the carb off to Splatshop Chris for inspection and consult with him on your setup to get it sorted.

You may not want to go back to original factory settings as most times they are too lean on the pilot and too rich on the main. Many dealers or importers change them prior to delivery for this reason. I might suggest you see just how it runs and then see what is init! Float arms should be level with the parting surface when inverted, seem most reports are running 35-36 on the pilot and 118-120 range on the main, somewhat depending on region and prefs.

So your new replacement bearings were sealed on both sides then? Seems correct to me.

My senses tell me this is not the case, the yaw is just to slow the aircraft, yet it cannot fly below stall speed in level flight. Stall speed is not a number, but an enigma based upon wing loading and angle of incident.. Thus, an aircraft can stall at any speed or any attitude. In other words, at 3 G, stall speed increases greatly!

One may debate this mix ratio thing all day, and the fact Dodof's strimmer does not smoke is within the fact it is revving hard all the time! Not much excess to burn off! Yet, as he states, even at the higher ratios(more oil) things do not typically smoke a lot with modern synthetics because it just does not really burn, the excess may be eventually deposited in the muff of a Sherco and build up though, which is why I prefer to give the bike a good run periodically to get heat into the muff and blow things out, as they were not designed to be re-packed, and are a PITA! Dadof's first sentence re- quality brings me back to the crank seals, as this oil mixed in is not designed for the combustion process and will smoke in excess. Couple of quick ck's would be bring motor to temp, pull trans vent hose below carb up to tounge and see if you detect vacume. Or, install small clear hose and see if it pulls water out of a cup. Might drain the tranny just to see how much comes out! 450 in = 450 out if things normal. M2C ps- O yes, the upper class riders will indeed rev them out briefly to insure the excess accumulated in the bottom of the motor does not inhibit a full power blast when needed, after putting about! As well as getting heat into things! Keeps plugs from fouling as well.

Smoke comes from oil burning, there are a few ways. First would be excess oil in the fuel. I normally prefer an 80:1 ratio of good synthetic in the mix for normal trials use putting about and on the loop. Second, after some good running with heat into the motor and exhaust, you mat start to get enough heat into the muff to actually burn off the excess that has accumulated there. Many bikes may smoke hard after a fast run or a long hard pull on an uphill under high engine load. Third, Bike may be pulling excess oil out of the gearbox side due to faulty crank seals which would not be uncommon on an '06 bike due to age. Preferred replacements would be the alcohol induced fuel resistant Viton ones from Splatshop. Can be done without splitting the cases, yet requires some tooling. Ps- I recco a good blow and go on every ride to keep things cleaned out!

Perhaps the jets are plugged. Did you remove and clean the pilot and main jets? Is there fuel in the bowl? Is the banjo screen clean?

It sounds to me as though you may be asking too much of a trials transmission. They tend to be selective and clunky, cannot speed shift them like a MX bike. Must be moving and wait for a positive click. Pre select your gear before a section if you possibly can.

Urgh, yep, the left side is not fully extending. I figure they prolly did something to limit travel on the 80. There is nothing much in that leg, looks like a conventional fork with a spring and damper rod, although the damper holes are drilled large and effect sharp compression damping only. My guess, they either installed a spacer on top of damper rod, or shortened the rod, hopefully the first! May have a lighter spring as well? Soo, procedure would be remove cap and spring, tap up outer seal for access to seal retaining clip and remove clip. Remove bottom bolt center of lower slider and drain fork. Then slide hammer lower slider off top tube and seal. What you should have left is a top tube with a damper rod hanging out! Pull it out of the yoke and invert to drop the rod and top out spring. Look for a spacer! Sherco parts book from '07 - '10 show the Paioli diagram for that model as I recall.

If the forks are correct full sized units, one thing that you may look for is there being too much oil in the right damper leg. This commonly happens if the fluid is changed and the damper is not fully drained. There is a certain air space required in there. Full the front wheel, loosten the top cap and see if the fork will compress the rest of the way. Should go till just below the lower clamp. Left side has the spring, and oil as well, but less critical and airspace is set differently.

I thought I might have recalled something like that but I have slept since then! Besides, Splat Chris is the keeper of the 27 8×10 color glossy pictures with circles and arrows and a paragraph on the back of each one explaining what each one was to be used as evidence against us. Wonder if he will catch that one?

Told you so! On the later models, beginning in "11 I think, the wires exit on the right side with the new cases. If there is no clearance it just will not work without major modification. Not sure if anyone has had this issue in the past, but you make a darn good guinie pig! Ha! Email Splat Chris to see if he has another. He reads these threads, so ref the pics. This is also a good example of why we need cores back for proper years if he is going to try to keep exchanges on hand, so send both! Cheers, Lil Mark

REd and green go to coils and white is commom(ground) . Sounds as though your wires are pinched together.

I'm not telling you how to keep a plug working, but the VX plug I put in my "07 bike was in it when I sold it in "12. The Denso that came in my "12 bike is still in it, and it is nothing special, must be a decent plug, otherwise I would consider back to NGK! Do a syou like!