copemech

That is who I was going to suggest! Put them in a box and send them! I guess you already compared sizes on the Gasser 50 wheels?

Send an email to me (copemech) with your address and all, @verizon.net

Are you in US? I have some I can send you.

I think plugs often die that way. Allways replace mine at the first signs of hard starting as well. I recommend getting some heat into the motor and revving it out completely at least at some point during your ride, drag race style! Blows out the exhaust and burns the crap off the plug! Can't do that just putting!

" Fault Current" Is that the new word of the day or have you lost your fekn mind. We have no documented evidence to support such a theory on these.

Well, that is one way to do it. Please at least try what Tony suggested just for future ref to others here. I doubt the CDI is bad, but one never knows. And since the stator core needs to go back to Splatshop anyway for an aid to others, he may well accept the CDI back if not needed. Large chunk of change here for credit with not too much postage!

Any coolant will work fine, just do not mix them. Flush well with water, run it, drain it and use what you like, green pink orange blue purple are all out there somewhere. The key is not to mix them as they do not all play well together. The newer long life coolants designed for 100K mile application are good in a sense, but in a trials bike, I still use standard green ethylene glycol and change it annually, or so, as it is designated 3 year lifespan for corrosion inhibitors. Pick your own poison here, just do not mix! AND this is a good example why one cannot go exclusively by color if one does not know what is in it!

Some call it Pookey, others RTV! With it you can seal a duck's ass!

Learn how to hop the front wheel and stay on the brake. Ray Peters video explains it. other that that, I think one sorta has to anticipate foot position and when to shift it. .

No prob! http://shop.americanbeta.com/c/accessories_mototrial_evo-4-stroke_engine OOps, think I misunderstood, if you want a 250 top from a modded bike, call them and see if they have any recently done, and if not, see if you can get Ron Lee's number, as I think he had one back when.

Never heard of that shaft bending, as the ali lever is the sacrificial unit. If you are swinging the lever out and down by hand they will typically bind up a bit in the last couple inches of forward travel as they are designed to fly back from a lower position. As far as full inward rotation when folded, I have seen some stick out a bit, but that would be in the pivot stop, and I have modded mine in the past to fold in a bit closer.

All this stuff is a bit of a mystery to me , but the bearings have come sealed for a number of years now and with good results it seems. If they opened the outside of the ones on 125 or others I am not sure. The 125 does use smaller bearings and seals that the others of larger displacement. Seals on the bearings themselves are not designed to withstand the pressure changes of the outer seals, but just keep the pre-packed grease in the bearing. And keep crap out, much like a wheel bearing. I know this is all contrary to a conventionally lubed open bearing using pre-mix oil, yet it seems to work. I believe the biggest problem with any of them would be the demise of the outer seals due to the alcohol induced fuels for which they were not designed, then washing out the seals on the bearings and the lube! Thus you would be well advised to go back with the Viton replacements from Splatshop, or change then every couple years or so. I have sealed bearings running over 20K hours in electric motors at similar temps, so cannot be all bad! Who knows?

Yea, what Dan said, my take on it is some are more responsive at different levels of rpm. Thus, to possibly smooth one end, you may get more on the other. Dan expects a 300 to be gentile, and honestly I have never found one that I preferred over a good 250 myself.

Need to find them impellers first! May be blocking the rad! I doubt they evaporated!

Not sure a 2.9 has changed any. A 300 would be more a torque pig, but still rip your arms out when you rev it, although possibly a smoother progression. Call Splatshop Chris, I am sure he could tell more. Not sure which he is on.

Where is this ride in the north? Not that I intend to take a leisure drive across the border to watch!

Ian , I am pretty much with you on all this. Wish I had the had the time and composure to put down what you have here. It is late and I will try not to ramble on, yet I have often wondered just who the math genius was that did away with the number 4? All I can tell you is making things more difficult to ride, more difficult to score does nothing for new riders or punters, or observers. We had it here in the US before, and seems there is great resistance at this point so it has not yet been re-introduced to the National series, so time shall tell.

Yes they have, the SSDT way and without the help on someone with a broomstick up the rear! Captured event like WTC with few riders anyway, go for it! Five them all if you can! Rest of us could give a flip about what they do!

You know it's a bad day when-------- **** happens I have never seen! Thankfully, not mine!

Yea, I was the "Does beer make you fat" guy! And Justin Bieber of course. Must come up when you type in F--k Justin Bieber! I keep drinking the ****, but I am only at 11 stone, yet I do p*** a lot!

45/125 would be standard jetting for the Kiehin bikes. As you will have no time for fine tuning it should work ok I would think.

Are you running the v-force reeds? I allways used the Boyesen dual stage to settle the Shercos a bit. Cheap to try! I wonder just how a 1mm change does compute? Prolly not as much as a 7000 ft change in altitude!

If it don't rattle put new rings and ride on!

Dan , as a ref point I would not go more than 1.0mm from stock as a maximum. So if it came with a .5, well then 1.5 max. You will know better when you see what comes out!

I know it is deceptive in a trials motor by ear. Normal bike idleind along, pop pop pop,p-pop! May translate to well over a thousand rpm on a tach!