copemech

They will def bind up if too much oil in the right leg, like someone did not drain the damping unit before a refill, will be overfilled. To use the quantity method the damping cartrage must removed and completely pumped dry then add 370ml in the right. Left takes 385ml. This is for Paioli / Ceriani, Tech forks on later models is different on quantity.

You answered your own question. Set them and install head.

Gets a bit confusing because a bike built this year(say November 05) will have a 05 vin, but it is indeed the 06 bike year model.

3.6 v6 gas or 3.0 I4 diesel, I think mileage is in mid 20's on the road with diesel being more, but unfortunatly I cannot bring myself to like any new diesel that you have to add urea for exhaust emissions. Diesel is too high now already!!!

The new Ram Promaster is PVC(Pretty{very}Cool)! Come 3 lengths, short and tall and in 1500,2500,3500! Similar to a Sprinter, but less costly.

I like these Fiats

I doubt you will get a lot of specific answers on that fluid, however I can tell you I have used similar fluids for many years in a Sherco(similar) clutch system without issue. I have primarily used the Mercedes fluid, however I think overall they are similar, and all said you will likely get a typical more snappy clutch as compared to the thicker fluids(gear oil), and if you are ok with that you should likely be fine. The entire idea behind ATF is that it IS cheap to use and dump often, so tune and use to taste!

So sweet!

No, I would not consider it EASY for a person not experienced at it. There are a number of tricks to these forks and a thorough understanding is need to even change the oil properly. There is a lot of info within this forum if you want to study up. However, one of the simplest things to try first is cleaning of the old seals. Dirt is a typical cause of leakage, so the quick fix goes something like this. Find a sharp edge plastic to to get under the lip of the outer wiper seal and tap them up till clear of lower leg. Clean all under and around that as there may be more dirt trapped there than you think. Once clean, find an old strip of 35mm film negative thin plastic and gently work in under the lip of the actual seal holding at such an angle to remove trapped debris and extract it as you rotate things around the shaft and withdraw it to take the dirt out. Do this several times till things turn up clean and no dirt trapped under the seal lips causing the actual leakage as many times the seal is not actually damaged, just dirty.. Prolly took me more time to type this than performing the act, and you got a 50/50 chance of a fix I would give it. If not, then I would suggest experienced help the first time around. Just little things, like I usuly hang the bike with straps when pulling the front end off, makes life easier! Ta!

Ck out Tommi Ahvala on farcebook!

Pop bottles work, darn well too. As all else, at your own risk. Try and break one if you think I am joking.

I always change the plug at the first indication of hard starting. They are cheap!

No, it is impossible!

I will stand there for you. Not gonna catch you, but I will stand there and build your confidence! C'mon Zipper, you can make it!

The ones called Sealskins are supposed to be the hot stuff. Think they are thin. Look them up!

Typical! Think I would order bearings prior to teardown!

And I scared myself just walking on my roof last week! This lad is a bit off! But the vid is soo nice I had to watch it twice! Thanks Nige!

Yea, well , next question is do they really have dust in the UK? Seems most indicate it rains all the time, so unless you are ingesting mud, you are likely safe!

Not as easy when you are in the sections! Section planning is of high importance! Once you master the B, you may progress! It is a skill thing! You may surprise yourself just how poorly you actually do in the sections! All normal.

Yea, well if you dun have rocks it is not such a deal, but I have used small(youth) stylt MX shin/knee guards that tuck into top of boots for years. Same with the forearm/ elbow guards. Were it not for these I would prolly have no knee caps! Even the little spill on some of the ragged granite we ride at times will remove large chunks of body parts! None of that helped my buttox the time I slid off on a pointy rock! Had a black and purple ass cheek for over a month!

Be sure the fuel tank is venting properly as well!

What say man, are you no longer a teenager? Ha!

A throttle chop ping is not necessarily unusual it seems. If you think about it, when you chop throttle you cut fuel as well so things may go lean. Only thing feeding fuel in is primary circuit, so it makes sense that an increase in pilot jet size may help. What jets are in it? On the Kiehin, seems 45-48 range is not uncommon, not sure about your area fuel.

Scary Night I ran into a pack of Zombies on Halloween and one of them sucked my brains out !!!! I will survive though, she only charged a tenner.

Gearing is simply a function of torque multiplication. It will not give the motor more power or more speed than the motor will overcome the resistance of (drag) at high speed. Three basic ratios to consider and only two you can change! Primary- crank to trans input Trans- may vary from say 4:! to overdrive at 1:1.2 I would guess. Final- (chain on a bike) somewhere around 4:1(40T:10T) Then going to say 48T/10T on the rear would give you a 4.8:1 ratio so a torque multi increase of 0.8 yet effectively narrowing the intermediate ratios of the trans and making other selections more usable in some ways. Doing all that math in a section really makes my head hurt, so I just use the clutch and throttle or go up a gear if I don't like the other one! Ha!