copemech

Ha! Classic! I am pretty sure that is the bike he had at TTC end of March. Yep, I rode it and loved it! I gotta get off my 2.9!

That does seem rather unusual what you describe, as I would figure a bit more overheat symptoms. Thet will naturally push out a bit of fluid with expansion if the rad is topped off. You bacically need to cover the tops of the cores plus a bit which leaves room for expansion of the coolant. You can allways pull the three screws on the pump cover just to insure the impeller is turning if you cannot detect flow in the rad. Yet normally it is just a thermo switch at worst. You may test the switch as stated. When sitting running(no airflow stationary) the fan would normally come on in around 5 min or so depending upon the temps. Keep us posted!

Some play in the swingarm bearings is normal. I would estimate somewhere about 3-5 mm when lifting the wheel with bike on stand even off new. Might just want to clean and inspect, re-grease heavily and see whot you got. Those bearing tolerances add up.

About one of them would doo me for the day!

Prolly true on a 250, as the gap is wide for woods work, yet the 2.9 has a bit more guts and is less likely to fall off the power. A tooth or two on the rear makes a difference, yet you will likely ride most sections in second gear, which is fine if you adjust to it. Seems a drop to 9 on front is just too much.

I think the Rev 250 or 200 is a good bike, as well as the Sherco(prolly more peppy)yet "o7 up on the Sherco may be best. Do not overlook a good Scorpa Yam! My thoughts,

I still wonder about the CG on there with the batteries up top? Yet there are some lively designs out there, at a cost! Downside is there is no clutch, so rev and pop is not an option, nor is slip the clutch or ride the flywheel, however power is reported instant if need be, all done by the throttle controlled program, so yes, it could be maped to your liking I suppose.

I was told you kinda want to find comfort in the width, however I have also found that best not to trim more than 1/2 inch off each end and only if you are getting your wrists in an odd position. My stock sherco bars measure 31 and 3/4 accross yhe inside and I like them. I think some like the renthals are a bit wider. You do need good leverage on them, so adjust to the bike first. Position fore and aft is something of a tradeoff it seems. Basically verticle (or forward from there) when on the bike is a good start. I run mine slightly forward. As in Dougs case, he is on Jims old bike which is set full forward as I would ever want to go as I recall. A bit much for me being a bit shorter as well, yet each to his own. Just dont bring them back past center, as it does limit things on the uphills and moving the rear wheel more than the added stability at speeds. Now Doug is gonna want to know how I know all this!

I can imagine how the paint onder the caliper mount could foul things. Not only that, the bolts will likely loosen off and fall out eventually! What brake pads are coming on them?

80:1 is fine with good oil. Would noy use more for putting about.

I seem to recall this on a scorpa a number of years ago. Try an email to mike at the tryals shop in the US,as burkett may be in scotland. Seems a little black box, regulator or rectifier?

There is a club up there somewhere. Lets see if someone can chime in with contact info. Other than papa Smage, not many hang on here though.

I think you will like that bike!

You might try going to the 44T rear sprocket(42 stock) as this has the effect of narrowing the gap between 3-4-5 as long as you do not need the absolute top speed. First gear was a bit higher on that year as well, so it makes it a bit more usable. Some folks went to the 9T front(10 stock), But that is like adding 4 on the rear.

Found another of a tight slippry rocky expert section in Austin!

Not to panic! Now, as I have not owned a Scorpa in a while, I still cannot think of much that would not directly transfer over form the specs listed on the Sherco side of things on the RYP website. Bolts are bolts and standards are standards, so same things apply to 5,6,8 mm diameter bolts, axles as well, as they all basically use the same setup. Obviously you want to insure things things are sound, so you would want ti hit on most things with a wrench or socket, just do not overdoo it as stripped threads are not good. And the bearings should be pretty standard, the 6004-2RS number comes to mind, yet I could be wrong, I am sure someone will correct me. Does the bike have the Paioli front end? I cannot recall exactly when they went to the Marz forks on certain bikes. I will get you more numbers if needed, yet it is late. Cheers,

SWEET!

Yea, and I am also old enough to prefer a rear end with a bit more cush in it! Engineers dno not have to ride the things! I may decide to change things on the day! Muddy trial, rocky trial, varies with the sections. This goes for the front as well.

Soo, if i hit a bump does the bike go down or the suspension go up? How do I measure the true distance travelled in an arc with a tape measure? Stop it Jon, Stop it! You are driving me nuts! You gotta understand the fact he does not have a spring! He is screwed! Done, Finished, Caput, Totally fecked! Now since I am soo friggin observant, I think I have an easy solution to all this. For all the teccy geeks, just use your smart phone to get the angle of the lower part of the swingarm which is basically straight and just below the axle. This measure would be common among bikes of the same make, and could easily be replicated reguardless of point of measure. I might roughly estimate that in a perfect world of 1/3 sag with rider this would put the line at near level. I figure a real smart fella might figure out that with a little more sag, it lowers the CG of the bike in relation to the axle height, which adds stability more than the simple change in steering geometry. Now Y'all go figure all that out and let me know what you come up with.

A different mix for Ham, still good. The concert vid DVD is surely awesome!

Wots is name? No Ider Jack Sparrow could sing?

What Is that black thing?

Others could come accross this issue as I figure none the standard black seals were designed for the alcohol induced fuels.

Straithten things out to clear, then form a thin ally plate and rivit it on using some high temp sealer so it does not leak.

I would guess the new company "Tech" is doing the biz then!!! That is all good then, up to a point. They obviously must be geared up for a certain level of production, and if that level starts getting pushed, quality may suffer. On the other hand, if the factory burns down, we may all be forked! So now, Paioli, Marzs, Ajp --- who is next?