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if you know how to jet why are you asking what clip position . How are your brakes did the slots cut into the pads make your brakes not work properly.

www.thehellteam.com Tech Support Gas Gas Info. look in suspension and you will find the manual for an 82 version 35mm.

@PapaLazarou Hi its Dave , I have a block in my toilet.

Sorry I did not understand that . Please forgive me. Best wishes Alan.

How to go about doing things is all available on the internet , do your research first before attempting any jobs that you know nothing about , it is so much easier and there will be less chance of damage occurring.

It would be great if jetting were that simple as in reality there are many variables that need to be considered , this is why some people rave on about Efi but that has its own problems at times. To start with have you lifted the needle by lowering the clip into the slot down from where it was when you found it lean and tested that.

Its great when people go to all that effort and also explain succinctly. It sounds like you have no direct experience of the PRO version, to my mind they are a nice bike to ride but the gear box is a bit clunky after 3rd although with standard gearing through the sprockets being tall/high then if you ride UK closed circuit club trials 1, 2 and 3 cover most situations so it has not been much of a concern in my experience. The old contact models motor in the 1990's had a better feel to ride IMO even if they are quite a lot heavier although it did not stop people doing the trick riding the same as is done with the PRO version. No doubt you are probably right about the FACTOR-e box it would make sense not only as a weight saving design but to make a more compact casing also. Any way glad you found it as interesting as I did , all thanks to gravityisnotmyfriend YouTube. Best wishes Alan.

https://youtu.be/Rtv10YeKrsQ?feature=shared

@cedec96 First do this https://youtu.be/G55FU27Z9bU?feature=shared If that does not improve the shifting gear problem then you have to split the gearbox and check the bearings for wear that support the gear shafts then check the (in english) dogs (teeth)on the gear disc/wheel selector sliders and also the teeth of the actual gears themselves and the 'U' shaped selector forks need to be straight also. You need to check the selector drum slots for damage /wear and the 2x small bearings on selector shaft. If you split the engine it makes sense to just change all the bearings in there any way while it is in parts it is not much money to pay . Good luck . Best wishes Alan.

Buy a clutch and brake master cylinder made by BRAKTEC or AJP and a pair of APICO cold forged levers. Outrageous that die-cast levers are even fitted as standard on a new trials motorcycle.

What year is your BETA EVO.

@garydwall Obviously the thermostat switch that is best to use is the one it was fitted with when it was new by the factory who designed and made it. Parts books are easy to find on the internet.

@garydwall the inline one is the early version of the pro and the one located at the top of the radiator is the middle/ 2nd version of the series either will work but a 09 pro had the thermostat fitted in the radiator at the top right corner where the coolant enters the rad from the cylinder head but either will work. Later versions have the thermostat located at the bottom of the rad on the left hand side.

@Chillout1983 Of course you could just skip all that advice as the 4RT does look like a very capable bike. 'Remember this is your life and its ending 1 minute at a time'. Have fun. https://youtu.be/2ki4VgsRG8M?feature=shared.

@Chillout1983 If you have not already seen this here is Toni Bou proving that trials riding is more about the rider and what he/she does than what bike is being ridden. https://youtu.be/yPLJn3IygAg?feature=shared My advice to you would be buy a 2 stroke 250cc around the £3000 pound mark then learn how to ride it well before you go anywhere near a pile of rocks or logs then go to youtube where there are scores of trials training videos as you probably already know. After a year or so of riding that bike like others have said you will be in a better place to try riding the 4RT that you are drawn to. Good luck with whatever you choose.

@Chillout1983 Everything depends on where you live and If you have any trials bike riding experience at all in the past even on a MTB messing around , Lots of people go out and buy a bike spend a fortune on the best boots , clothing and a helmet then go out for a ride fall off a few times scratch and scrape their bike then realise the bike does not do the work and it feels nothing like you thought it would when you have watched other people ride as they make it look easy , they probably started aged 6 and have ridden trials every week- end for over twenty years. If you let people on here know where you are in the World they can give you better advice on how best to start out without losing a lot of money if in the end you find that actually it is not for you . I am 61 and have ridden on and off since I was 17 . I personally would not advise you to start out on a Montesa 4RT unless you have previously ridden 4 stroke trail bikes dirt bikes off road regularly . Like I said what advice you need depends on what base you are starting from , your physical condition how much money you can afford to throw at it. what weight height are you , what type of trials riding are you inspired by , wobbling about on some easy sections at a club event or jumping up 5ft high steps on a hard route etc etc knowing all these things helps people to give the best advice especially on what bike and the motor capacity that may best suit you. Best wishes Alan.

These are obviously going to be the type of bikes that make it even possible for the sport to continue in the new world without polluting gasses but £10000.00 is just way off the mark for something that gets used once a month or whatever in the real world , they need to sell the motor/box/controller and battery as a kit that fits directly into say all 2011 on bikes for a start up period so that take up can look like a possibility for ordinary riders or it will be too long a transition period probably ending in failure of the electric trials bike in the market due too low take up as there will be few reasonably priced second hand bikes available for quite a long time , or are people much wealthier than I think they are.

@Assgas mcman56 probably has your answer , just cut 50% of your pad material off each pad with a cutting wheel or hacksaw to lower the amount of surface area causing friction while braking or buy a VERTIGO if the brakes are smooth , they use exactly the same brakes on most trials bikes ie BRAKTEC with the exception of BETA that use GRIMECA and so it must be down to set up or Pad material or the type of metal the actual disc is made of , I would not think that to be the case but obviously I could be wrong.

I read things like this on here quite often , the gear change lever is too far from my foot there is no comfortable seat available etc etc Competition Trials bikes are SPECIFICALLY designed to ride in trials competitions and are SPECFICALLY designed to have brakes that grab so that you can trick ride easily. If you want a play bike or trail bike then a modern competition trials bike is not the right bike to own. If you want brakes that do not work properly then you may find some aftermarket brake pads made in china that have garbage pad material or you could just buy a twin shock trials bike with drum brakes . Sintered brake pad material can take a while to bed in before it grabs you could try that.

@ nick1 You could try putting some washers/shims on the clutch spring bolts to preload the springs and make it push the clutch pressure plate more stronger on the clutch discs but really you need a new set of clutch discs to make the clutch pack thicker/wider.

I thought it might be a thicker grade of fluid in a fork like that , The BETA factory back in the 90s must of been next door to a plant machinery operator/hire place and they had a few barrels of AGIP OSO 46 that needed using up or perhaps it was cheaper than a barrel of AGIP 10W Fork oil.

@ lemur Unfortunately as you say that is the PRO clutch pack and the steel ring is the belville spring so it is of no use to nick1 . It would probably help him if he bought a new set of SURFLEX plates to have the correct pack thickness to start with for the old VILLA based bottom end and then go through the slave and master cylinder push rod set up to get it working plus try using a clutch /gear fluid that is less high tech , there cannot be much wrong with it.

@nick1 KUBOTA oils are made for them by REPSOL if that helps you in your country , Where are you living? You can buy mineral oil on ebay in the UK it is used to break in a new engine after rebuilding them for a while before changing it for full synthetic oil . One of them that you can buy is by a manufacturer called DRIVEN and the oil is called BR30 CONVENTIONAL 5W 30 , It costs £12.50 for a LTR but It may be expensive for the Courier to your address. I would probably try using AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID DEXRON III it is used by many people in a trials gearbox and clutch it should be easily available.

ENI OILS that is the new name for the old AGIP company still lists OSO 46 it is a anti wear hydraulic fluid used in plant machinery.

@bigboi Just a note as he says DO NOT tighten those clamps on the leg just lightly nip them up they are cast aluminium and are very fragile , there are no replacements available although they can be welded but as you are probably aware this can be very expensive these days if you can find some one willing to do it. The same goes for the axle clamping point on the right fork leg you MUST tighten them evenly and the same goes for that part just nip them up they are cast parts not cold forged so be careful.