furse

Neither find a 200 ! Why does everyone want a 300?

The only mods I did to mine was to put wider footrests on, welding the brackets slightly down and back. I did get a set of handle bars risers made for it, but I am 6ft4. Cut off the steering lock as this halfs the weight of the bike! Burn the exhaust out, then cut into the exhaust near the back (airbox side) about 8" long and take the baffles out that have packing behind. Clean off bits of baffle and weld back the piece you cut out. (dont repack the exhaust, some will disagree with this) Make a 125 moto x silencer fit and once you set it up to suit yourself, your love it.

I can understand changing forks if they are pitted and seen better days, so if your going to change the forks for some others then the section forks is a fair option (but they weren't great!), personally I reckon the best forks I had on a bike were upside down forks and then the montesa 315 forks. Loads of USD forks for sale! Hydralic clutch - certainly dont bother with a fantic one, knowt wrong with a lightened cables clutch personally What will be next on the twinshock modified scene. a mono with a dummy shock to call it a twin! Shouldn't be long till S3 start producing billet side casings and 300 style floating brake plates. You have to admit the whole scene of trials has developed hugely in the last 5 or so years, people rarely blinged a trials bike, now there are so many after market parts its a hobby to bling. Personally I think a line should be drawn somewhere on modifying a twinshock, but where? Then if a line is drawn people will just cheat it. Back to the question in hand, sorry no section top yokes! but they should weld ok.

Can anyone tell me which fantic had a 68mm bore? I understand 240 was 69mm.

Mine started jumping out of 2nd gear when under strain then every gear, I striped it and found ball had come out under selector drum. Don't know how this can happen. before I strpped it I was told drum some times rounds off a bit where selector runs. The only other problem could be weak slector spring or badly worn selector. Strip it and have a look, your probably find it obvious when looking in ! and let us know for future reference

Im not 100% what it was made for, but I think it was a 125 aprilia road bike, there wasn't a front pipe on silencer. I made that from a piece of stainlees conduit. It isn't repackable but it will do for now. Mudguard is half a 315 montesa and original 200 bottom half.

Here's my latest addition,

Hi Guys, Can anybody tell me which models had reed valve blocks? 1,3 or 5 series Just thinking of next project!

I think its to do with the upside down forks, cos they got the timing sorted by then and very few would run backwards!

Since your new to trials I would advise a modern bike as they are easier to ride and your level will improve quicker than on a twinshock, I now ride a twinshock as my days of riding every weekend and practicing atleast once a week are out of the window due to family. I am enjoying the occasional riding now a lot more than when I finnished riding modern bikes every weekend. I guess I reached the highest level I was going to reach on a modern bike. Trials has so much to offer, and the easier you make it, the more fun you'll get out of it, You will probably get a modern bike up to 5 year old cheaper than a decent twinshock anyway.

I prefer the burnind out then cut it open ditch all the steel baffles that are probably loose by now and let ir roar! Using petrol and air may be a bit extreme, i'd soaked in oil and burn for 10 mins in a steel fire bucket, bit safer may be. Another method but not as effective is to get an old clutch cable inner and split/ fray the end fold it over push it into the pipe the put the other end into an electric drill and spin away, becareful it doesn't snag and twist, you could use a cordless on torque setting I supose.

You can get most types of plastics welded by a plastic fabricator or body repair (bumper repair) specialist. Looks a bit better than the ties. It also depends on the colour of the guard, I have had a white montesa guard for over 10 years and bent it every way possible and still in one piece, but some of the coloured guards will snap easy.

Hi Guys, What gearing do you all recommend for a fantic 200? Anybody tried the new sammy miller betor shocks? Cheers in advance

I have had a lesson from Wayne, Very good. I would recommend it to anyone. Hes got stacks of experience in his era of riding. (not saying he can't ride modern stuff but good straight forward ridng skills). He also knows how to teach and explain things.

Yes footrests have gone back and down a little, Tank is Classic trial Silencer is first thing to be changed, its had a hard life and the WES aren't the prettyiest eh.

After almost 2 years I've finnished my latest project of bringing a sorry 200 Fantic back to life. Its had a complete rebuild of engine, wheels and suspension. I ran the bike a few months ago before having it powder coated so no nasty gremlins popped up to spoil it. Can't wait to get it dirty now. Got a few ideas of mods I would like to carry on with but some time is needed on the bike now. http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/F...to/PA100779.jpg http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz307/F...to/PA100775.jpg

Just to update, I have got a set of 241 forks after dismantling them i've found the dampner rod is longer than my original 200 rods. Does anyone now what the length of the dampner rod should be. I've put the longer dampner rod and fork stanchion into the 200 leg, so I do know have a longer fork. Not tried it yet but will soon be able to bring the reborn 200 back out.

If its any help, I have a Montesa barrel that was ported for James Lampkin, Its main re-porting has been done on the exhaust port only, she rev's like a darling!

Can anyone tell me if there are any other silencers available for a 200 fantic apart from WES and original, if not which is best? Thanks

Thanks guys, I have been able to get an exploded view of forks from a SWM manual (they used same forks) but doesn't show anything missing at first look. I have tried replacing top out spring with a longer one ( a valve spring off a Hilman Imp), still the same problem but not as bad.

They look very nice, i've made a pair of carbon fibre panels for my 200, i've used zuse fastner ( don't hink that spelt right1) they are a pin that push in and turns to lock into the female reciever that is fixed to frame or weld a nut on back off frame then you could just bolt on with a tidy button head bolt. Sure there's a market for them.

Take lever off and use a 4mm allan key T bar or similar, It will give you more movement and allow piston to come all the way back

I've just finnished rebuilding a 200 fantic, which I bought as a non runner in bit of a sorry state, I rode it yesterday for the first time, well made up with it. A few minor things need changing and sorting before I strip it again to have the frame painted. Has anyone got on ideas why the forks top out very easily, i've put 250ml of 10w oil in each leg, I understand it that the oil feeding through the dampning rod slows the forks rebounding ? I've never used oil heavier than 10w in any bike, but is that what it needs? or am I missing something out of the forks, anyone got a brake down diagram of forks?

Can anybody tell me how these bikes compare to other twinshocks, which is better 250 or 350, any mods that are done to them? Many thanks in advance.

Where about in Barcelona did you see this collection?