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Which way do I move the stator to retard the ignition, clockwise or anti-clockwise? Thanks for your help in advance guys.

If David finnishes, which im sure he will, he certainly wont be last. Good Luck

Im rebuilding a 200 Fantic, the rims are pretty bad so Im wondering if to put a disc and newer front end on, has any body done this? if so using what parts?

Can anybody help! Im in the process of rebuilding a rear kick 200, which had stood for years and had no kickstart when I got it. What keeps the kickstart shaft in place? there is an M6 thread in the casing above the shaft, should something bolt in here and clamp onto shaft? How much are the footrests lowered and moved backwards? Thanks in advance

Where did you get your manual from? Is it just the frame with engine torque settings or a proper break down of the engine?

I had similar problem on a rev3 a few years ago, fuel was sloshed around bowl and missed going where it needs to jets, solved by having a extra deep drain plug made, is angle of the carb same as on gasser?

Black embossed Montesa on frame, red montesa on frame 2003 silver 2004 but could have easily been changed. 2004 had silver 1 decal on tank, difficult to be certain as everthing can easily be changed, if its immaculate does it matter what age it is?

Im in middle of restoring a 200 Fantic (forward Kick), I have removed all the bolts inside the casing (flywheel side) clutch off the other side but can't split the engine in half, I have managed to open in about 20mm but dont want to force it if I have forgotten to remove something. Can anyone help? Also any recommendations on mods to do to it would be appreciated e.g how much to lower footrest? what shocks should I use?

Any comments on the Tough One out there? I went and would say not as good as last year im afraid WOR, no big rock pool for the speed trial ! Main race didn't have the same atmosphere either? Hats off to Michael Brown for winning the

Stick a dunlop on the back and you can run that flat for while, without worring it will come off rim.

Sell the Sherco must be first thing on your list ??? Only joking don't string me up. Have you been to watch the Scott previously? If not obviously too late know. You need enough fuel to fill your bike in 5 or 6 fuel cans, one can gets used twice, make sure you mark your can up clearly with your riding number. As for what to wear, it will probably misty and cold when you start, not for long! Your be sweating like a sweedish sauna after half an hour. a decent goretex jacket would be advised as it will keep the wind and sleet off you. Your not going to stay dry what ever you wear. Don't worry about it to much yet just get plenty of practice fixing punchers, draining carb and jumping bogs As has been said before, ride to a pace your happy with, push to hard and your spend more time getting back on getting more knackered and not enjoying yourself! I don't think anyone enjoys the Scott until they see the finish line, but boy its worth it when you can say you've finnished the Scott in time! Yes luckily I can say that.

The connections will only plug into the right plugs I think, There is one 2 pin plug that will have a seperate kill switch if you haven't got the original switches on the bike allready. Then there is I think a black plug connected to a red plug which has the feed up to the switch, this needs to be split to plug in light switch and harness. Sound very complicated!!!!!! Isn't there anything in the manual? Failing all this give those good guys n dolls and Sandifords a ring.

sounds like water in the carb sucking through from the airbox, clean and dry filter and box remove drain plug from airbox, drain carb amd if you've got a compressor take the carb off and give it a good blow out. If this doesn't work then maybe water on the electrics which will probably dried by now.

I don't know what the problem with your 4RT is but I did have recall on my '05, something to do with crank cases and a bolt on th kickstart. Sandifords did let dealers know which bikes needed to be recalled to save any expensive repairs! Give Sandifords a ring is your best solution.

It would be very interesting what Sunter and lads of the same level have done to their 4RT's I had a standard '05 which I loved, but I did struggle on big steps. I kept finding the skid plate would grind out much more than my two stroke 315! May be it was just the way I was hitting the step but im sure they have a lower skid plate height or different geometry, and no I hadn't been eating loads of pies I only weight 11 stone. The 4RT certainly aint the lightest modern bike out there neither, this also must add to the difficulties in getting it up the steps.

Does anybody know what the squish should be for a 315 (gap between top of piston and bottom of head at TDC)

I used to have a 2005 4RT, It started fine even by pushing it over with your hand once it was warm. Never had any problems with oil e.t.c. Personally I would not bother with replica's having differnet mapping and all that. The standard bike is fine for any rider up to British Expert standard.

Try checking the breather in the top of the cap, If the tank can't breath it won't let fuel through

Yep buy some and fit them straight away! They do make a big improvement to the back end, giving more travel. There are a number of manufactures of these plates I think Apico may be the cheapest out there.

Cheers I thought it may be something like that, I know someone who races RS250 local so I'll give them a ring. There are more of these tanks about, try and ad. They are a lot lighter and actually more capacity. And look the bis.

I have got a flat carbon kevlar tank, like what Doug had on his. The tank won't sit down flat as it touches the spark plug, I presume they had a shorter plug. Does anyone know the plug type and where I can get hold of one.

Beta's did have problems with wudruff keys and electrics, a fly wheel extrcator is the easyiest and safest way of removing your flywheel, they're not expensive. Theoretically there should not be any stress on the wudruff key, it is a sign of a poor fitting flywheel on the crank. If you keep braking wudruff keys it may be worth checking the fit One method of trying to get a better fit is to remove wudruff key from its slot, put some grinding paste on crank then push flywheel back on and spin it around the crank shaft (no need to put nut on) remove flywheel, then clean shaft well, put some chalk all around shaft and again put flywheel on trying not to touch crank till its fully on, rotate flywheel, pull off and see if any chalk is left on crank. there shouldn't be any solid traces of chalk, if there are then the shaft isn't making contact with the flywheel, more grinding paste where the chalk has gone and rotate again. The other problem could be bottom stator plate or top coil, there is a place down south that can test and rewind bottom stators for a little less than new replacement. I take it you've tried changing a plug, Beta's do like plugs. Also disconnect kill switch.

You could try Demon Tweeks web site or Pro bolt. But RED on a Sherco ! Make sure you put some copper grease on the alu bolts before installing.

Stick some Pro-Boost in the fuel, that will sort any problems you think you may have with poor fuel igniting. Personly I recommend the Shell V power and Motul pre mix as posted before.

I have got a Dellorto flat side carb, but how much do you want for Keihin?