mcman56

Lower gearing helps because you need less clutch work. Aloe Vera like this? https://www.amazon.com/Aloe-Vera-King-16-9-Ounce-Bottles/dp/B0040PSRI8/ref=sr_1_2_s_it?s=grocery&ie=UTF8&qid=1523020649&sr=1-2&keywords=aloe%2Bvera%2Bwith%2Borange&dpID=41IEPahWq1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1 or this? https://www.amazon.com/Dynamic-Health-Aloe-Vera-Orange/dp/B001E1CZ5W/ref=sr_1_29_s_it?s=grocery&ie=UTF8&qid=1523020788&sr=1-29&keywords=aloe+vera+with+orange

I looked at the Beta UK site but see nothing about a mod. Where could I find that? I can see the picture name but no picture. I don't know if the bike was ever jetted. I need to pull the carb and look. I hear pulling the carb is not an easy job are there any recommendations?

Thanks for all of the input. I think I was giving it a quick kick like my two stroke likes. Today, I used the hot start button along with a long slow-ish push down on the kicker and ti was starting reliably..

I had not noticed that piece about the fuel tap. Mine is not the factory model but looking at the chart may run better with the richer competition settings. I'll have to check. What is the best way to get to the mixture screw? The manual implies a straight screwdriver but it points directly at the cases. Do you need one of the aftermarket screws or is at least a good idea? Does idle speed affect starting? The recommended setting seems rather high. Why so high?

I have a new to me 2016 4t. Hot starting is sometimes quick but sometimes takes quite a number of kicks. A tiny bit of throttle seems to help sometimes. Are there any recommendation to improve hot start? I m using the hot start button. quick kick or slow kick....throttle or no throttle...does ignition map switch make a difference...carb tuning ...or

Will a 2008 Rev 3 brake pedal fit an Evo? It looks to be about 1/2 longer and may give a better feel.

I have a new cable and it is not sticky. The pull is relatively easy. When you let the clutch out, there is not much lever travel between start of engagement and full engagement so it is hard to slip the clutch. So, I guess I'm asking if it could be made more like a modern bike clutch.

I am used to a modern bike. When I ride a TY, I try to ride clutch out. Occasionally, a turn is so tight I pull in the clutch to be able to go slow enough to make it or maybe hesitate before continuing. When I go to let it out, it tends to abrupt at the almost zero speed I'm going. It is probably by design but I was wondering if there was a way to improve. I have the smallest front sprocket (11?) and the stock size rear sprocket.

Is there a way to make the TY175 clutch more progressive? I have the clutch extender and put in some heavier oil such that it drags until warmed up. Those two things helped but I'm wondering if there is anything else.

I was able to get it out through the top. However, I could not get it started in the sleeve to put it back. I pulled up this old posting and ended up pulling the radiator to reinstall. Thanks

Betas are known as easy starting bikes. I have a 28" inseam and the kickers are a bit high. I have a 75 year old friend that rides a 125 Beta and a 76 year old friend that rides a 250 but they do not have knee issues. You should try them both if you can. Besides starting, you should consider what flavor of power you want. Response, like when double blipping, on the late model Beta 125s is very quick. I have a Rev3 200 and the response was fairly slow. It had more of a smooth tractor feel to it.

I used a Bultaco Alpina rear wheel. If I remember correctly, all I had to do was make outside spacers to center it in the swing arm. I think the spacers were the same width on each side. The chain was straight and there was clearance but not very much. I have since sold the bike so have nothing to measure. I was amazed how heavy the original brake hubs were on this bike. It was a street bike but the brakes looked like they came from a small car.

Probably not what you want to hear but I had a similar issue with a C15. Under close inspection, I could see that the cast swing-arm mount was slightly twisted on the frame. I made up some mounts so I could bolt the frame to a bike carrier and used a long (6' maybe) bender bar with pin to pull it straight. It took a lot of force but worked out OK and stayed in place. The only negative was that I did hear one "tink" as it moved. I took a lot of measurements yet never really came up with a great datum or measurement method so it was mostly by eye. After straightening, I had adequate clearance for a 428 chain and small chain guard. While I was at it, I checked the flatness of the swing arm on a surface plate and one leg was higher that the other. As I remember, it was easily straightened when gripped in a vise.

With all of the complaints about hydraulics on modern trials bikes, has anyone tried retrofitting with something like KX65 brakes. Japanese components are very reliable but would MX brakes have the feel needed in trials? KTM50 brakes must be pretty tiny too. Would they be as light as trials components.

A lanyard from anything with a battery powered ignition should work. You need one that is normally closed. Street bikes use them at the drag strip. Do watercraft use battery powered ignitions?

Interesting! Did coming up with the kit involve a lot of experimentation with porting or was it just a drop on?

I wonder why they only made big bore kits for Gas Gas http://trialendurodirect.com/product/s3-gas-gas-pro-225cc-kits/

I have a friend that rides a Beta 125 just for that reason. It is surprisingly powerful for a 125 and has very quick response, even at elevation.

lineaway - The link is interesting. What type of electric device do you use and what type of issues does it help. I do use an Armaid and it has helped tremendously but I started getting sore again lately. I have used just for massage but the link shows more of a pressure treatment. https://armaid.com/collections/frontpage/products/armaid-extreme I will try the other suggestions also. Where can I buy some confidence?

Riding is hard on my arms. My forearms get pretty sore and can stay that way, mostly the extensors. Are there any techniques or tips to help a person ride with less arm and more leg? Just trying to use less arm does not seem that effective. I do exercise and stretch my forearms so believe this is a technique issue more than a fitness issue. Age does not help.

Can you grease the shock bearings on a 2014 Sachs shock? Mine is out and I have tried to tap out the top hat internal collars but they do not budge.

copemech - I have had a Keihin on two bikes and an OKO on one and they all seemed very insensitive to idle mixture screw settings. As long as I don't go below 1 full turn out, it does not seem to make any difference to the idle. This is true even when trying different pilot jets. They all ran fine but I have never had carbs so insensitive to this adjustment. Is your experience different? One day a friend went to adjust the idle mixture on his Beta and the idle mixture screw was missing. His bike still ran fine. Odd

In the US there was a Super Smooth model, details below. The exhaust is probably just a longer head pipe. I have a 2015 Factory model which I believe is basically an early release 2016 model with a couple of extras. While I found the power to be quite smooth even with the quick throttle, I tended to pick up a lot of speed when doing multiple obstacles in a row. I went from an 11 to a 10 and finally a 9 tooth front sprocket. With the 9, the bike can more easily be ridden slower and it does not pick up speed over multiple obstacles. I believe the SS model comes with a 9. It certainly is inexpensive to try. Items included with all SS models:-“Hi-Torque” exhaust system-Heavier flywheel to help smooth out the power.-Smaller countershaft sprocket to tie the engine torque to the ground-Slower turn throttle assemble-Different combustion chamber to reduce the engine’s power pulses-Heavier primary drive gear for additional smoothness.

X ring chains are narrower than o ring chains. Compared to standard chains, they require little lubrication and last forever. RK and DID make ones that they advertise as narrow IIRC for enduro use. The RK "narrow" chain I have is slightly narrower than the DID "narrow" I have. It is only 0.01" different so could be manufacturing tolerances. On my Rev3 I had to run the master-link backwards with the clip towards the tire to get adequate clearance. I did the same on my evo but probably did not have to. Standard o ring chains fit on my 2002 Sherco and 1997 Gas Gas. They must be slightly heavier and consume a minuscule amount of power but power certainly isn't the limiting factor in my riding. I certainly can not tell a difference when changing from standard to X ring.

It sounds like we need an electrical engineer to step in. There should be some way to isolate a line to the fan from the line to the CDI. Do you know if your CDI provides a spark advance curve? Some do and some don't. I checked a 97 Techno and it provided about 25 degrees of advance between idle and max revs. My 2008 Rev 3 only provides about 5 degrees and from my understanding that is from things happening a little quicker at higher voltages and not due to designed in advance. Looking at earlier Rev 3 stators, they have two trigger coils so must have one for idle and one for higher rpms. Many older street bikes do that. Anyway, I have heard of TLR200 owners running pit bike CDIs on their bikes because the Honda ones are no longer available. The only issue is no advance curve or unknown advance curve. http://www.classictrial.co.uk/hondacdi.html Of course, this does not help with the fan issue. A sort of crude way to keep riding while working on this would be to run the fan with a small battery.