trialsnutterman

You can't do it with a clutch holding tool, you need to put the flywheel back on and get a flywheel holding tool or buy a impact wrench See Here To decoke your front pipe set it on fire, works a treat but watch you don't get it to hot and discolour it.

With everything cleaned, fasten the lever upside down in the vice, put the spring in the angled hole and the ball on top of it, use a bit of grease to hold them in position, then firmly push the bottom piece of the kickstart into the hole until it goes fully down, then finally insert the grub sreew with some thread lock, this should be tightened till it touches the bottom then backed off 1/2 a turn so the kickstart can swivel easily

AC

You can buy just the end piece which reduces the price down to

There is one in the tank to, so you don't really need another.

Your car engine has to be more expensive to rebuild.

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Doesn't sound right most master cylinders have a spring behind the piston.

Back fill it from the bleed nipple, it helps push any air locks out. Sometimes the seals swell stopping the oil getting through to the piston, this happens if you use the wrong oil, use DOT 4 only.

You can quite often get a bit of muck trapped under the seal, try removing the dust seal and give it a good clean then using a small feeler gauge go around the oil seal to fetch any trapped muck out. If you have got a nick in the leg fill it with super glue and using a very fine oil stone smooth it off before putting new seals in.

The Scott trial gives you a 1 mark penalty for every minute you are slower than the fastest rider, it used to be 1 mark for every 2 minutes I preferred this but that's cause I'm not quick enough. Good luck

yes

I think I'd look for a 2006 Sherco instead, I wouldn't be paying more for a older bike unless it was classic status. The 2006 bikes are quite a improvement over the 2002 bikes especially on the engine and suspension front. Regarding spare parts they are very easy to purchase on the internet and probably around the same price or maybe slightly cheaper than the beta parts.

5wt is fine, the factory spec 4wt but there is only one or two company's who make that grade and there not the ones recommended by the factory so I wouldn't be surprised if it was just another miss print.

They do seam to stretch over time and once they have stretched it is nearly impossible to get them to seat properly on the rim, I've tried on a few occasions ended up faffing about for hours trying to get the tape down properly then thought sod it and put a new one on they seam to go on and seat straight away. I used to use grease to help me get them on but I think some types of greases react with the rubber in a bad way so I've started using tyre soap now.

I'm fairly sure you will have put far to much oil in the fork leg, there's a damping rod in the right fork leg that will still be full of oil, you'll have to take it out to drain it properly and it takes a while to get the majority of it out, I don't think you will ever get it all out. When refilling it's better to use the specified oil height measurement then it doesn't matter if you get all the old oil out. Oil level on right leg: 60mm With forks at bottom Qty 370cc Oil level on left leg: 110mm With forks at bottom and without spring Qty 385cc

I take it is 3/4 of US gallon so around 2.8 litres? Should be fine for the SSDT then as the 09 tank was under 2.5 litres and I didn't run out with that.

They did change the Delta link in 2009 but it was just changed to help protect the bottom of the shock from rock damage, the actual position of the holes remained the same. The swinging arm was changed for a shorter one on the 2007 model and there have been a few revisions to the Olle rear shock but as far as I know everything else has remained the same.

It's nothing to do with the delta link, they changed the aluminium end cap with the damping adjuster to a slimmer design sometime around the end of 2007, this newer slimmer design can be mounted either way up.

I noticed that Splat Shop also have them in stock.

The road is clear, most of the sections are free of snow and the sun is forecast to come out too so it should be a good days trialling. See you all there.

Aren't you riding the Sheffield and Hallamshire assuming the road thaws a little.

Yes it should spin freely, the gear is in constant mesh with gear number 9 on the diagram so unless you where in 3rd gear it would be spinning relative to the output shaft so with it being tight it is going cause problems. Are you sure you got the broken teeth out of the gear box maybe one is jammed in the selector drum.

Make sure you put a mud flap on the back of the airbox it stops mud and rocks getting rammed into the shock which wear the chrome plated shock shaft leading

MSM Insurance cover you on the road and in trials events or enduro on the road stages.