zippy

I believe you are correct. Here's one. All credit to the Hell Team: https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html Number 19

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G55FU27Z9bU

Investigate the locked up kickstart first, check the top hat for gear change. Top Hat has a break away bar in it to protect the other bits of the shifting mechanism. (photos below) Starting procedure: have bike on a stand/leaning on something. get on the pegs, set foot on kickstart, slowly lower kickstart until slack is taken up and kickstart engages. at this point kick downwards with smooth authoritative force. DO NOT "stab" at the kickstart this could cause the quadrant and idle gears to chip. if a piece gets lodged between the two gears, it could (most often does) push the two gears apart placing stress on the clutch cover and breaking the clutch cover at the kickstart shaft. credit: Hell Team Website https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html Kickstart quadrant gear highlighted Top Hat highlighted; notice the cross bar. If the bar is broken it will be rotated inside the bore of the top hat. the ends of the bar will remain in place in the wall of the top hat. Google searched this photo, source says Trials Central - Added text - Clutch basket has been removed - there should be a hollow allen head bolt in the center of the clutch basket. 4mm I think, not positive

it's a special design feature to remind the rider to keep their knees out................... I don't know if the 2021 and the 2015 have the same exact design for the air box, but I have no issue with it causing any bruising or discomfort.

OP has a 2015. that should have a rear rim with all external spokes. (true tubeless type rim) My 2003 had the rubber seal in the center channel of rim, I replaced it once with a rim band that had the valve stem built in.. Used zero sealants of any kind. Cleaned rim, used a little bit of soapy water when fitting rim band, made sure the rim band fit the channel properly fully under the ridge. Lasted 6 or 7 years until I sold the bike.

My 2003 Pro had the kickstart hit the peg, and my current 2015 Pro kickstart hits the peg. Basically the peg is used as a stop instead of some part of the frame, some bikes have a metal stop on the frame that the kickstart hits (TLR200 Reflex I think had one) It's a design of the GasGas Pro engine. Internally there is "stop" for the kickstart as well. Pro engine has been mostly the same design with upgrades to internal components that retro-fit from 2003 - 2015, I am not sure about retro-compatibility with 2017 -2021 models All credit to The Hell Team: https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html My advice: (yeah like anyone listens to me) ride it, enjoy it, crash it, pick it up, repeat. starting procedure, stand on pegs (lean bike against tree, etc; bike on stand; balance on pegs), slowly bring kicker to where it engages, kick firmly and smoothly, DO NOT STAB AT IT - for some owners that has caused problems with breaking the clutch cover. most often starts 1st kick, sometimes 2nd kick. same way for the 2003 I had as well as the current 2015.

that spring has definitely sprung. I am not sure if the shaft on a 14 can be pulled without splitting the cases. My 2003 required splitting the case because of the rollers attached to the shaft being inside the shift drum. I am not sure what the kickstart positioning bush is, do you have a photo?

Did that used to be the spring on the gear selector shaft??? DAMN! The hole in the crankcase is normal, my 2003 pro300 had it as well. some are "better looking" than others, I have not had the cover off my 2015 yet (just got her last summer) but I suspect the hole will be there as well.

Are you are referring to the single allen bolt in the center of the clutch basket? If memory serves me, the head is about half the thickness of a standard allen bolt, but the threads I believe are standard right hand thread. The bolt is also hollow to allow oil to pass through Some use a thread locker of some sort on the bolt. (I don't believe thread locker to be necessary, and I know a couple people that just leave that bolt out)

welcome, hope that's the issue, should be relatively inexpensive

Shift shaft issue. Most likely it is the cross bar in Part No. 10 with the return spring. Cross bar is a sacrificial part for just those instances when crashing on the gear lever. It is accessed under the clutch cover side. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B0Mfile5AhnmN0RMR0lRNGRWRjQ - Page 42 10 - SHIFT SHAFT CENTER LOCATOR AND SPRING MT280238037CT

It's all good, responses passing in the night........

6 IN/LB is just snugged up and just barely a small bit more.

If that model has the standard 6 springs with the small bolt through the center of the spring, If I remember correctly the torque setting is actually quite low. but I don't remember an exact number. I did find for a Sherco, that the torque for the clutch spring screws is 0.7Nm (0.516 FT/LB or 6.2 IN/LB) http://shercousa.com/pdfs/Workshop_Manual.pdf Page 4 of 60. in the PDF I know it is a different brand, but the clutch design may be similar enough that the torque is similar as well.

Yep, TXT series for GasGas. Good luck hope ya get it back to running good again

If it has a history of running good until one day just is not running well, I would suspect a blocked jet. Take the carb apart, clean it. throw it back together and see if it's fixed. I believe so, but still a GasGas and basic running principles are the same. (Maybe we can convince @mastermatt to buy a GasGas trials bike too)

with the idler gear broken, be sure to check over the "Bart" gear on the kickstart shaft for damage as well.

I believe it was a 2015. Just be sure to use your spacers that are original to your bike on the new wheel.

I fitted a new style wheel (2-piece spoke) to my 2003 GasGas. It was used (much cheaper than new) and came off another GasGas. Fit right on, just had to use the spacers that were original to my 2003. No muss, no fuss.

Betty White is, she was born in 1922 and sliced bread was introduced in 1928

Can you get a clamp of some sort in there. Maybe a small version of this. one side on the bolt threaded area the other side on the frame next to the bolt hole. Push the bolt back toward the shock, eventually having enough bolt shank showing to grab with pliers. this is of course assuming you can get the nut off or cut off the nut.

Also take a look at the cover in the area around the kickstart to make sure the cover did not also crack during the "event".

IMPACT WRENCH!!!! DURGA DURGA UGGA UGGA!!!!!

Boots with a good steel shank in the sole is really good for protecting the foot as well

If this happened at any point in history other than now, the responses would be totally different. So let me give a different type of feedback: Yes, proper landing technique is key when doing drop offs, thank you for pointing out one of the possible negatives of doing a drop off incorrectly. heal up quick, but take the time necessary to do so. Land with rear wheel first seems to be the best way, and as you said have the feet more forward on the pegs so that the ankle does not "dip down" when landing