zippy

Shift shaft issue. Most likely it is the cross bar in Part No. 10 with the return spring. Cross bar is a sacrificial part for just those instances when crashing on the gear lever. It is accessed under the clutch cover side. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B0Mfile5AhnmN0RMR0lRNGRWRjQ - Page 42 10 - SHIFT SHAFT CENTER LOCATOR AND SPRING MT280238037CT

It's all good, responses passing in the night........

6 IN/LB is just snugged up and just barely a small bit more.

If that model has the standard 6 springs with the small bolt through the center of the spring, If I remember correctly the torque setting is actually quite low. but I don't remember an exact number. I did find for a Sherco, that the torque for the clutch spring screws is 0.7Nm (0.516 FT/LB or 6.2 IN/LB) http://shercousa.com/pdfs/Workshop_Manual.pdf Page 4 of 60. in the PDF I know it is a different brand, but the clutch design may be similar enough that the torque is similar as well.

Yep, TXT series for GasGas. Good luck hope ya get it back to running good again

If it has a history of running good until one day just is not running well, I would suspect a blocked jet. Take the carb apart, clean it. throw it back together and see if it's fixed. I believe so, but still a GasGas and basic running principles are the same. (Maybe we can convince @mastermatt to buy a GasGas trials bike too)

with the idler gear broken, be sure to check over the "Bart" gear on the kickstart shaft for damage as well.

I believe it was a 2015. Just be sure to use your spacers that are original to your bike on the new wheel.

I fitted a new style wheel (2-piece spoke) to my 2003 GasGas. It was used (much cheaper than new) and came off another GasGas. Fit right on, just had to use the spacers that were original to my 2003. No muss, no fuss.

Betty White is, she was born in 1922 and sliced bread was introduced in 1928

Can you get a clamp of some sort in there. Maybe a small version of this. one side on the bolt threaded area the other side on the frame next to the bolt hole. Push the bolt back toward the shock, eventually having enough bolt shank showing to grab with pliers. this is of course assuming you can get the nut off or cut off the nut.

Also take a look at the cover in the area around the kickstart to make sure the cover did not also crack during the "event".

IMPACT WRENCH!!!! DURGA DURGA UGGA UGGA!!!!!

Boots with a good steel shank in the sole is really good for protecting the foot as well

If this happened at any point in history other than now, the responses would be totally different. So let me give a different type of feedback: Yes, proper landing technique is key when doing drop offs, thank you for pointing out one of the possible negatives of doing a drop off incorrectly. heal up quick, but take the time necessary to do so. Land with rear wheel first seems to be the best way, and as you said have the feet more forward on the pegs so that the ankle does not "dip down" when landing

80:1 seems to be the normal ratio for the majority of modern trials bikes. Also with GasGas Pro engines the crank bearings are lubricated with the gearbox oil, not the premix. Premix is only lubricating the piston and con-rod bearings

do you know what the previous owners were running for an premix ratio? Possible they were running a high(er) amount of oil which would foul the packing sooner than 80:1 OR it's possible the crankshaft seal has gone bad and is sucking in gearbox oil.

Yep, had a few fires in the silencer of my 2003 300 GasGas. Got hot enough it started melting the outer decorative plastic up by the airbox. Packing looks horrible too

Welcome, good luck

@mbeers6 sorry for taking so long to respond, bike maintenance has taken a back seat lately. I tore down the dog bones today. As you can see in the the VXB photo of the bearing there is no seal. Here is a photo of the same bearing installed in my dog bones. (Still a bit dirty, but hopefully can see it clear enough) note: it is a caged bearing and there is a rubber seal, I "persuaded" the original GasGas seals to be in place. It is a very tight fit and the seal does stick out probably a half mm from the dog bones. but after install in the bike, they don't stick out anymore. SQUISH!! ?

Try this thread https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/44825-identify-gg-year-from-frame-number-250-txt-pro/

A friend in Germany mentioned the next 2 trials events have been cancelled. Events with more than 75 people are currently banned in their area. Here in the states I have not heard of any events being cancelled, but it may be a regional thing. MOTA doesn't have any events scheduled until May 17th.

I have medical insurance............. motorcycle doesn't............. but that's just me being a smartass

Of course refill with new gearbox oil, but be sure to run it until warm, dump that oil and fill with new. That will help get rid of any residual coolant in the gearbox.

Actually been a little while since I changed the bearings. If memory serves correctly, (this may be the issue and as I type this I may have remembered differently) the new bearings are just a touch wider than the originals, I believe I put in O-rings to take up the gap or I was "persuasive" with the old seals. I actually need to grease the dog bones bearings soon. I should take a pic and post it.