zippy

You're welcome. I do have a 2015 GasGas 300 Race, the photo I pulled off the interwebs is of a 2022. But they should be very very similar. I purchased mine used, so it was all set up for competition, none of those extra blinkers etc. I will try to remember to look under the tank tomorrow, if I remember correctly there are 2 plugs that are not connected to anything. I will try to confirm.

Just take a second look at the lower triple clamp, throttle side. The 3 parts may have been packaged together for convenience, not necessarily for install location. I have one on my 2015, my previous 2003 had the hole in the clamp and a hole for the bolt but the plate was not installed.

Take a look at the bottom triple clamp. there may be a locking mechanism for locking the forks in place. A type of theft deterrent. I think that plate replaces the locking mechanism.

There are many similarities between the 2003 and 2004 Pro. I think, I may not be 100% accurate, that the 2004 has the same 38mm GasGas produced forks. the 2004 user manual states 310cc each leg. The Hell Team have a nice resource here: https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html

Agree, I tried an old Tubeless tire on the rear of my TY175, wouldn't sit on the bead correctly. Mounted an IRC tube type rear tire. No problems with bead seating or tube creep. Only problem I have is the sidewall is a bit softer than I would like and have to run 5-6psi in it instead of 4psi

I had some slop in the rear of my GasGas at the swingarm pivot. ended up the swing arm axle was badly worn. You may also need a new swing arm axle.

Tap harder. May need to use a metal headed hammer to provide a decent shock to dislodge the crankshaft. not a HARD hit, but a good tap.

Personal preference is to cover the clutch always 100% I cover the front brake almost always, similar to Faussy if I am hitting a larger obstacle or hill that requires a bit more throttle and GO!!!! I will take my finger off the front brake. As fprintf states, eventually the movements to get fingers back on front brake get to be almost automatic.

Check out the Hell Team website. Choose parts books or user manuals, and then choose the year of your bike. https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html

I was unaware of the sale. but to be fair there is much I am unaware of in life.

Been here for a few years myself. On Advrider I also advertise my bike of choice.

Check your transmission fluid level, if you have a leaking clutch side crankshaft seal it will suck in trans fluid and burn it causing excess smoke. Not sure on fuel consumption, I never measured, just rode it and filled up when necessary.

Clean the bike???? oh no no no. every time I clean the bike something is broken. No clean the bike = nothing broken. I transport my bike(s) either in the bed of a pickup or on a trailer. So I never really thought about a need to clean the bike before transport, but I can see in certain cases where it would be a concern. Have you considered a hitch mounted carrier? (assuming your vehicle will accept one)

I believe it is a designed "weep hole" to indicate failing water pump seal(s) as stated by b40rt and tshock250 If I remember correctly that is a 2 seal design, a seal for the coolant side and a seal for the oil side with a gap between. The weep hole is situated in the gap between the seals. Benefit is you can tell which seal is bad by what is leaking out of the weep hole. but I would suggest changing both seals, because they have both been in there the same length of time with same use etc..

welcome

this video shows the new style crank bearing (w/ seals) and how to retro fit to older Pro engines. more videos; https://www.youtube.com/c/TRIALSPARTSUSA/videos there used to be a good video by Jim of tearing down a GasGas pro engine, I am unable to locate at this time good resource for parts diagragms https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html click parts books and find your year.

You should be able to purchase a matched cylinder / piston set. with a return of your cylinder for a "core". easier than finding a place to replate etc. I recommend new crank bearings and seals if you feel vertical play. (you are halfway torn down anyway) Pro crank bearings are lubricated with transmission oil, so be sure the hole in the races match the hole in the case. My 0.02

That is the "kickstart stop" Credit Hell Team: https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html

yep, get some feeler gauges, and tap that electrode on something solid. I always check the gap of my plugs and adjust as necessary.

YAY!!!!!! Easy fixes are the best fixes

Remove linkage and attach shifter direct to shift shaft, first, Rule out the cheap easy stuff first. Let us know how it goes.

No shame in knowing your limits. You think the top guys spin wrenches on the bikes they ride? There are many websites that offer parts, be advised some parts have been discontinued but many are still available. a few possible options: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/ https://www.bikebandit.com/ https://www.hondapartshouse.com/ https://www.partzilla.com/ https://www.hondapartsnation.com/honda-motorcycle-parts

Some information and some opinion. First the opinion, I used to own a tLR200 Reflex. Fun bike, I had the gear shift lever attached direct to the shift shaft. It was mounted vertically, forward for down shift, backward to upshift. This kept it up out of the way and mostly protected, and reduced possible accidental shifts. Question: does the shift lever need moved back to horizontal with every downshift or just when shifting into first? Information, Parts schematics are available on most online parts suppliers for the major Japanese manufacturers. I suspect you have an issue with the shift shaft and return mechanism. Possible 1 "side" of the return spring (#12) is broken off. This will be located under the clutch cover. front of bike in picture would be on the left. Hope you find the issue

The center bolt for holding the clutch basket on is not exactly necessary to have in there, you can leave the bolt and washer out. I am running mine without it. If the basket does move outward it will move a minimal amount before the clutch plunger touches the fingers. which will keep it from moving any farther out. but I am afraid you may need to split the cases. there may be an issue internal of the transmission