woody

For a fibreglass tank I think you should use only Caswells. It's a US product but they have a UK website/store. If you google it you'll find their website and contact details. Are you sure it hasn't just worn through for some reason, vibration/rubbing etc. rather than fuel eating it. It's nearly 30 years old and could have suffered all sorts of abuse. My old 325 slimline Sherpa has been used regularly for many years with no problem to the tank and I know of several other bikes with glass tanks that have suffered no problem with today's fuel. My Majesty glass tank is showing no sign of suffering from modern fuel either and it is never without fuel sitting in it.

Sizes can vary so best to buy a spoke spanner with multiple sizes on it. If the nipples are original, they may be the alloy type in which case be very careful when you try and tighten them. They can appear to be in good condition but one tweak of the spanner and they can break up if they have corroded. Best to apply penetrating oil and let it soak in for a while and also to apply heat if there is any resistance when you first attempt to turn them.

There is a farm at Shatterford, near Kidderminster, where the ownner allows riding. Can't remember the name of the farm, Birchwood maybe, but if you can find a contact number for Jeff Wells who runs the Stourbridge club he could tell you as they hold trials there. It's on the main Kidderminster to Bridgnorth Road, a mile or so past the junction with the B4189 road from Wolverley (Bridgnorth side) It's all banks cambers and roots, some pretty big banks. No rocks. When it's wet it's extremely slippery. The place at Button Oak is owned by a caravan park which I don't know the name of. Been there once but can't remember exactly where it is. I think it is the only right turn in Button Oak and then you just need to find the caravan park. The road has a fork in it and both are dead ends so you have a 50/50 chance of taking the right one first. Rock stream but nothing big in it, banks and roots. I prefer Shatterford as it is less hassle for parking which is also more secure. At Button Oak you have to leave your car/van up on the road on the grass verge which is very large but on the side of the road out of sight. Shatterford you park in the farm (it's not a farm in the normal sense, more a stables) Whatever anyone tells you DO NOT go to Kinlet as practising is not allowed there and the owner is not at all happy when he finds people have been there

Yes you can have them painted. Any decent car body shop or custom bike painters will know how to do them. Just needs the correct primer and flexible additive in the paint.

The problem with those parts is you're going to have real trouble identifying which model they have come from, could even be several, so establishing which cases they will fit in order to buy some and whether a gearbox is compatible with the clutch will be virtually impossible - until you come to assemble it all. Also, a 73mm piston is from a 250, not a 325 which is 10mm bigger in diameter. The clutch chain tensioner should have a revolving wheel, not a plastic triangular pad. If it was me, I'd look out for a complete engine as at least you know what you are starting with. If parts are missing/worn, at least you know which model it is when ordering replacement parts. They come up on ebay from time to time and Ellastone Offroad near Uttoxeter has Bultaco stuff and may be worth a try for an engine to rebuild. They are also going to the USA soon and may well be bringing more Bultaco stuff back. Lots of engines being broken for parts there (I'm assuming you're in the UK) Other issues keep coming to mind as well each time I think about it. The later clutch-side crankshaft weight is a different shape on later models and won't fit inside the earlier clutch case (up to '74) they need some metal machining off the outside edge in order to clear the inside of an earlier case. Gear selectors changed around '74 also, They got beefed up a bit and I don't think the early selectors will work with a later gearbox and vice-versa. Most of these parts look identical when looking at them individually and strewn over a bench but when you compare them side by side you notice the differences. So although nothing was a major redesign throughout the life of the Sherpa engine there are enough little differences on engines up to around '75 to make life very difficult to do what you propose. After that I'd guess they stayed pretty static. Try and get a complete engine, it's the better option

I saw Paul on it a few weeks back and it looks anything but trick, nothing like Thorpe / Calvert etc Cubs. Really pleased for him to have won, nice bloke and a good rider. Well done.

I can't say this as definite fact but as far as I know the cranks would be the same in terms of external dimensions so would fit any 325 engine, I think they were just 'beefed up'. I don't believe there were any changes to the cases. You'd be better checking with one of the Bulto specialists on this though, just to be sure One thing I forgot to mention is that there were changes to the clutch hub around the early 70s and this could cause you trouble if building an engine from sourced parts as it affects the gearbox mainshaft too. The 250 model type 49 (and 80 I think) had woodfruff key fitting for the clutch hub on the gearbox mainshaft. Sometime after that they changed the hub and shaft to a spline fitting. This may have happened on the model 91 but the next model, 124, definitely has it. You can't put the splined mainshaft/clutch hub in the earlier engine as the shaft is a larger diameter, therefore the bearings are different sizes, ID and OD. Naturally, same applies to putting earlier shaft/hub in later engine. All 325 engines will have the splined hub. The other thing to watch with the hub is that the boss on the rear which fits up against the spacer is different depending which bike it has come from. There are three lengths that I know of and if the wrong one is fitted, could throw the primary chain out of line (I'm assuming) There is the woodfruff key type with nuts to hold the springs. There is a splined type as fitted to the 92 with pins to hold the springs. There is a splined type with nuts to hold the springs as fitted to all of the later bikes. All have differing lengths. Best option is to get an engine with the clutch complete, then you don't have to worry. If you start with a pair of bare crankcases and try to build an engine from there, you may just rip your hair out trying to match clutch parts....

They didn't change much really. The early 325 motor from the model 92 to 151 (1972 - 75) was basically an overbored 250 barrel with square fins and these have a limited oversize due to the thinner liner. From 1975/76 they had internal changes to the crank, gear ratios, selectors, porting maybe, but nothing major. These engines had thicker liners and could be bored out to 340cc with the Pursang piston which you can't do on the earlier ones. Not that the 325 needs a performance hike anyway. Visually they are pretty much the same so you could use any of the 325 motors. Clutch cases changed design in about 1975, model 151 maybe, and the timing cover changed in 1979 on the 199a. However for appearance sake the older cases can be fitted to the later engine if you're bothered. The fin design on the cylinders/heads differs slightly from older to newer but it's not obvious. The later 325 engine has a larger exhaust port flange than the earlier engine so the exhausts aren't interchangeable. The earlier 325 uses the same size as the square fin barrel 250 I think. Earlier engine had an Amal, later used a Bing, these take different inlet manifolds but they are interchangeable. The most noticeable change in appearance was to exhaust systems, silencers in particular. The 250 engine changed from round finned barrel to the square fin 325 style in 1975 so the 250 from that date differs in appearance from an earlier engine. Clutch/timing cover as per 325. Early 250 uses Amal mk1, 1975 on uses Amal mk2. Inlet manifolds differ but are interchangeable. Exhaust design completely different from round to square barrel. For your bike, if you want to keep it a 325 to go with the 92 frame, apart from purists knowing the differences, any 325 motor would look ok with the older casings, even the later clutch cover, but you might not be able to get a 'period' appearance exhaust if you use a later 325 motor. You're stuck with the later exaust, unless you modify. If you use a 250 motor then you really need the round barrel model for that year frame. Ultimately, all you want is a bike to ride and enjoy so if it was me I'd use any engine I could get, none will look out of place really. There were plenty of hybrids back in their era. Originality can become obsessive and ultimately, for what purpose.

Yes, 242 Mont is a good bike. You could try TY Offroad as he had a 242 that was either for sale as a parts bike or was being broken for parts, not sure which or if it is still there. Link below. TY Offroad

My original post has gone due to the server upgrade - here's the shortened version Bike is owned by Eddie Bull and is at the Stafford show this weekend on sale at

I think they did try a 360 but not sure it ever went into production. Maurice Brayford (I think) has ridden a 360 James for as long as I can remember and it is supposed to be an original bike. Having picked it up off him in a section a good few years ago I can well believe it is original as it felt like it weighed as much as the Suzuki Bandit I had at the time. The current version of the 360 conversion has been tried by one or two people and I've heard nothing positive about it. Pete Carson was trying one and gave up with it and he has access to a lot of Villiers expertise with the people he knows. I really wouldn't bother to be honest, the 250 with modern ignition, exhaust and airbox design has more than enough power for any classic section. 360 just isn't needed - unless you just want it of course which is an entirely different matter. I'd never argue against opinion that says we can never have enough toys to play with...

It is a genuine number after all then and not a misprint. Wonder why they don't list the 700 prefix on the ID chart. My '75 350 MAR has frame/engine prefix of 43xxxx and that doesn't appear on any listings either.

As far as I know, the TR77 is the green tank, black frame model introduced in 1977 (hence TR77) The 250 has chassis number starting 63xxxx and the 350 64xxxx In '79 they painted the frame green too and called it the TR77 Verde, the last of the 'MAR' style bikes before the TR80 Gripper was introduced. The Verde 250 chassis numbers start 70xxxx and the 350 71xxxx. This tallies with the bike that AMO has and I also have a TR77 Verde 250 which starts 70xxxx. I always wondered whether the reference to chassis number prefix 72 was a misprint

The original points would have been on the right side but the Rex Caunt ignition replaces them and is on the clutch side, like a PVL so it's unaffected by the right side casing being chopped back.

You can get the lower mudguard from here TY Offroad As far as an airbox, it may be a bit more difficult to find a good used one. I don't know whether the 175 shares the same airbox but I wouldn't think so. Why not keep the alloy one? I made an alloy airbox for my Majesty and still use the fibreglass lower mudguard extension (original airbox was smasshed so no, don't have one for sale)

There is no problem painting the fibreglass tanks with cellulose, 2-pack or whatever, although I'm not a painter so can't give you any advice on the best way to do it. However if you're going to use a lacquer coating don't use it over the water based slide on type decals as they aren't made to be used with lacquer. You need decals specifically made for lacquering over (usually vinyl type) Try Bultaco UK to see if they have them.

You could fit a later rear wheel as fitted to the 1976 model 159 onwards. Or a Grimeca style rear wheel as fitted to Fantic, Armstrong etc will go in I would think. I've seen one fitted to a 340 Sherpa.

Yep, but I'm getting really frustrated at not being able to make a start on rebuilding the bits and bobs that need doing so I can get using it. Took it out once after I got it and first impression was it gripped like hell.

Was the MK3 frame at the show? If it was I missed it somehow as I never saw it on their stand. I think you are right about the top tube being all in one as per the original frame as that was how it was in the picture I saw. Jock's bike looks like a MK2 in that area but as I never saw the frame at the show assumed that the design had changed from the photo I saw, so I'd guess you're right about it being a MK2. Not sure about the iol tank though as there appears to be a tube coming from the frame filler cap down in front of the tank. As regards elligibility, I'm way past caring....

Don't know about looking like a factory frame as I have never seen one but even though it has bottom frame tubes it still has oil in frame. I thought the 'pre65 Scottish elligible' version was not having oil in frame. I'm assuming it is the latest Faber MK3 in view of the bottom frame tubes, looks like a Faber where the top tube joins the vertical under the seat, the biggest identifying feature is usually the swingarm pivot area but this is obscured by the rider. As he is now riding an oil in frame bike himself you would have to assume oil in frame is ok for a BSA in the pre65 Scottish.

No, didn't get an entry again but it's done me a favour I guess as I can now use the money to put towards a trip to the Robregordo 2 day in Spain. To be honest I'm losing interest in the Scottish due to the absurd eligibility criteria. To put my bike in what you could call a 'performance state' comparable with others, not necessarily on a par, it would cost too much money for the brand new 'pre65 eligible' parts as I can't do it on a budget with components I already have and which don't look out of place. My forks and yokes aren't eligible and I went in 'the book' in 2006 and haven't got an entry since. It's one reason I never got a Faber frame before as they weren't eligible but when you see what other riders are allowed to use year after year it's laughable. My main interest in the C15 this year is the Manx Classic and main objective is to get it working right for that. It doesn't have what you might call the 'ambience' of the Scottish which is more about the overall occassion than the sections, but the Manx sections are right up there with the best classic trials on the calendar and from a rider's point of view (well, mine anyway) is a better trial than the Scottish. Roll on May (Robregordo) and September for the Manx.

If it's that hard to buy one, not sure I could be bothered. I'm happy enough with the standard C15 frame with a few alterations anyway as long as it doesn't twist too much again. If it does I'll have to have a rethink but if it is this difficult to even make contact with a business with a view to buying their product, I'd probably look elsewhere.

You can't bore them out to 360cc (not with a Pursang piston) to get to 360 you need a 65mm stroke as well, max bore size on standard stroke is 340 and a bit with oversizes. On early 325 Sherpas the liner isn't thick enough to overbore past the normal max oversize. Only possible from model 159 I think onwards. Falcon shocks are personal preference, they are probably the best value for money in my opinion (steel bodied that is, not alloy) and Mr Falcon has been doing them for years so is generally pretty good at setting them up how you want them. Other makes either come as they are or the seller doesn't have the experience of 'building them to spec'. Nothing special about the Miller exhaust at all, I'd say the opposite - my opinion obviously but I think it is poor quality, poor appearance. Front pipe is awful in fact with washers as spring retainers. Middle silencer won't join with a rear silencer as the outlet pipe doesn't come close to lining up with the inlet of the back box. Maybe the new owners will commission some better replacements one day. Won't do anything for performance (not meant to to be fair, it's a replacement, not a performance enhancement) If you need an exhaust you're better off looking on ebay USA for used Bult original exhausts as other than Miller's the front pipes and middle boxes aren't generally available new.

Your best source for a brake plate is the USA. A lot of Bultaco parts including brake plates regularly appear on ebay US. Or try the various specialists like Hogans, Hugh's etc. That hub was only fitted to the 124/5 and maybe 150/151 Sherpas so the chances of finding a used one are slim in the UK and Pursang parts rarely come up either.

You could buy an Ossa MAR rear brake cable from Venhill, cut the nipple off the front of the inner cable, remove the outer cable and then solder back on the correct nipple. The rear end of the cable has threaded rod to take the adjusting nut which is metric thread, 6mm I think. I can't remember how long they are (MK2 is longer than MK1 to allow for the longer MK2 swingarm) but I'm sure Venhill will give you the length if you ask them. Or look on JK Hirst website as Yam mono uses a cable for the rear brake instead of a rod - maybe one of those would do. You can still buy the barrell and adjuster nut for these too.