woody

Carb should be a 627 - typo? Gear selector mechanism can be looked at by removing the clutch cover and removed without having to remove the clutch. Only 3 screws hold it in place. Check that the spring is fitted correctly or not broken. It'll be obvious when you check it. Lever position is up to you but angled up is better to help avoid it catching. Vertical would be a bit extreme for me... Best drain off old oil and start with new. Clutch 300cc of ATF (ok as plates are all steel) Gearbox takes 600cc and normal Silkolene light gear oil will be fine, or other equivalent. The engine will be pretty much the same as your old Alpina and if the Alpina was an early one, they are pretty much the same bike, different gearing, big tank and seat.

Great news Andy Hugely recommended, this trial, hard route as good as any of the Normandale rounds so ideal for twinshocks and good Pre65 bikes. Easier route comparable to one of the harder Miller rounds.

Hadn't thought of that, I'll give them a try. The real shame of it was that I did it whilst showing a bit of consideration for a couple of walkers coming towards me inbetween sections across a field. I was moving over to the edge of the field to give them a wide berth out of consideration, hit something hidden in the grass and BANG, was off before I knew it. I was half chat in top gear so motoring a bit, ended up about 30 feet from the bike, face down and facing the way I'd just come. Result - bruised, dazed and a collarbone in 4 pieces and neither the bloke or his bitch wife bothered to stop to see if I was ok - and they were only 20 feet away when they passed me lying on the floor. And my mate who came upon this carnage reckoned the bloke was taking pictures of me crawling on all fours, so I could be featured on the ramblers assc. website satisfying his perverse humour... (walker's not my mates... maybe) So the result of considering others is never finished one of my favourite trials, missing the Nostalgia and Manx and quite possibly the Manx Classic as well if it isn't anywhere near fixed in 3 weeks. Probably not. Have to add though that most walkers I've come across in all the years I've been riding have been fine, only the odd exception like these two. Last Miller round in Pately Bridge, a group of about 20 saw me coming up a track and waited a couple of minutes and held the gate open for me. Opposite extremes eh.

It used to be worse years ago. Bikers going to the TT had the petrol syphoned out of their tanks at the docks before the bikes were allowed on the ferry (not sure if this happened to cars as well) Just enough was left in to get to a fuel station when on the island.

Empty cans are fine, yes, so no need to hide them As are full cans on the way back home....

Whilst we're on about the Isle of Man, I have a place booked on the ferry to the Manx 2 day that I don't need now thanks to a broken collarbone. Depart Friday 26th 2.15pm Heysham - Douglas, leave Douglas 8.45am Monday. Booked for a LWB Sprinter plus driver. PM me if interested.

You can take empty cans and they aren't bothered if they come back with fuel in, but you can't take fuel over in cans. If they find it you'll have to dispose of it.

Although you haven't removed the weight someone else may have, so it may be seated incorrectly. I guess it's possible that the tensioner could be bent which may cause the chain to rub, unlikely but not impossible I suppose. The basket will provide the line for the chain. The chain will run in a straight line from the basket to the sprocket on the weight and shouldn't touch the inside weight. If it does it's most likely the weight isn't seated on properly, as mentioned above. The magneto puller is no use for the weight. I've never needed a puller for the weight, they ususally come off by hand or with gentle tapping from a hide or copper mallet. You have to remove the basket and weight together and equally, if one comes of further than the other you will bend the chain and the resistance will stop them sliding off the shafts. You won't need to worry about where it has been rubbing

To fit a new clutch (as in clutch plates) the entire clutch assembly doesn't have to be removed, only the plates. So just fitting new plates will not have disturbed the weight. What I meant when I said has the clutch been refitted recently was the entire clutch assembly - basket weight and chain (ie; engine rebuild or replacing crank seal) I can't advise you on replacing the chain and tensioner as I can't see it so have no idea of whether it is worn or not. If you can afford

Rollox, those footrests are quite weak and can break. If they do you could have a nasty crash. I have broken 2 or 3 of them. They can break if you hit them on rocks or roots and one broke under my weight when I hit a rock step hard. I still use them but I now strengthen them with weld at the points shown on the photo. At each end of the 'cross', top and underneath, vertically down the inside and finally where the footrest section attaches to the pivot as they can break off quite easily there. I can't mark that place with a circle as it is hidden from view but I have marked it with arrows. You can't put too much weld here as it will foul the bracket when the footrest pivots, stopping it from doing so. Once welded I haven't had one break, but if you don't you may have a crash if one breaks. I was at the top of a rock step when mine broke and it was a long way down backwards with a KT250...

The chain is catching the weight where? If your chain is rubbing on the inside of the inside weight (as it is a double weight on the 350) then you probably haven't got the weight seated far enough onto the shaft meaning the chain is out of line. When you fit the weight, the woodruff key can ride up out of the back of its slot and prevent the weight from siding far enough onto the shaft into it's correct position. Remove the clutch (obviously the clutch basket and weight have to come off together as they are joined by the chain) and look at the woodruff key. If it is pushed upwards out the back of its slot, that's your problem. Best way to fit the key is to loctite it into the slot with thread/bearing lock and let it set. The remove any traces of loctite from around the key and then carefully refit the clutch making sure that the keyway lines up with the key when fitting the weight, otherwise you may dislodge the key if you catch it with the edge of the weight. It's best to have the bike on its side when doing this as it is easier to line things up. Make sure the key isn't worn or damaged. I can't believe the chain could be that worn that is is moving around that much that it is hitting the weight. No matter how worn it is, the tensioner should control it. Not impossible though I suppose, but more likely your weight may be seated incorrectly. Has the clutch been refitted recently?

Seat upholsterers use glue to fix the cover to a fibreglass base. No idea what sort, probably special adhesive for that specific purpose, but it works. If you have an upholsterer near to you it's worth getting them to do it, they will make a foam and cover and fit it for about

I think there are many people who are worried about how safe it really is out there in terms of radiation. Personal view only, but I wouldn't believe any government or 'independent' report declaring it safe. Not where money is concerned.

May be to do with earthquakes, tremors, radiation? There are some MotoGP riders not wanting to go there for the MotoGP race later in the year as they don't feel it safe.

I honestly don't think there is a need to do that. The TY Mono forks work really well with very good compression and rebound damping. I doubt you would get any benefit from fitting modern forks. It's only my opinion but I don't think modern forks work that well on older bikes, or rather, their quick action doesn't feel right on older bikes. The mono forks have pretty linear damping characteristics both ways and the slower action, by comparison to modern, allows you to ride slower with more feel over obstacles such as rock jumbles, either dry or streams. The quicker action of the modern forks are more suited to the point and squirt modern technique and get a bit lively when riding 'old style' and picking your way over obstacles. I've tried a couple of twinshocks with modern front ends and to be honest, I felt there was no benefit over the original Marzocchi forks. If anything, the feeling was worse with the modern forks (for me)

Nothing to be honest, what's wrong with it? They, or the earlier 'banana' type, are a good replacement for the triangular one on the earlier models. As long as it isn't clogged up it should work fine. The section that runs up to the shock is perforated tube and the packing can get clogged or just disintegrate and get blown out. It can be cut open and repacked but it's a messy job. From the shock to the outlet (ie; the box section) it is full of baffle plates, presumably for the job of spark arrestor, so there is nothing to repair in there as long as they haven't come loose, I can't see how that chamber can get blocked up. As a mod, the plates can be cut out and the perforated tube extended to the outlet, effectively giving it the same internal arrangement as the banana type which is tube all the way through. The outlet just needs to be changed from 2 to one larger hole, as below

Original brochure picture showing how it sits

To be honest, your better off temporarily positioning the mudguard with tape and eyeing it up to see if it looks correct. Lots of Sherpas you see have the mudguard fitted too far forward which means the rearmost tip falls well short of the rear edge of the wheel. This makes the mudguard look too short. By playing with the positioning using tape you can see exactly how it lines up. I don't have a 199a now and can't remember if the mounting hole at the rear of the airbox is the same as a 199b. At a guess, on my 199b I have the mounting hole in the mudguard only 10 to 20mm from the mudguard edge. This gives it a full curve around the wheel.

Your trial should get a good entry whatever classic label you run it under in my view. If it doesn't then I'm at a loss to understand what riders of classics and twinshocks want from a trial any more... The entry for the Mansfield Maun event would certainly have been affected by the clash with the PJ1 round for the Pre65 class. Twinshocks, no idea really, although the venue is one of the groups in their Normandale round and I'm not sure it is everyone's favourite as the sections are more manufactured than natural. It's also the first time that the two events would have run together and I'm not convinced it is a good idea. It meant 2 routes with the Pre65 class on the easy route and twinshocks on the hard. That to me, presents problems. Some of the Pre65 riders are very good and don't want the easy route. Some twinshock riders aren't so good and may not want the hard route. When the twinshock team trial ran in the Lakes, the sections were all natural and one route, some hard, some easy. Overall a good balance and although hard in places they weren't intimidating, so all could attempt them even if it meant a fail at times. When the Pre65 team trial has been run, the variety of machines and rider abilities is quite big and as far as I remember, it has always had 2 routes. Teams nominate who will run on the hard and easy routes which is dependant upon the ability of the bike and the rider, but I can't remember exactly what the criteria was and how the team scoring was worked out. Putting the two events together, I think it is hard to get the balance right due to the bigger variety of bikes and of rider ability. Besides, I'd like to ride in both (being selfish.... ) I think the format you had last year (and this) is the ideal for your trial to be honest, solo trial, 2 routes and riders choose themselves which route they want. However, it would still make a fabulous team trial in terms of the course, but it is just how to handle the format, if the twinshock and Pre65 events are combined. There is no reason you shouldn't get a good entry for it but I think a lot of the Pre65 boys would be disappointed if they were on the easier route.

Sandifords? They will date it for you as I remember seeing them advertise it on ebay, but I'm not sure if DVLA will still accept documentation from them for an age related plate as they are no longer a registered importer (I'm assuming) Presumably Sandifords would confirm that. Or, try the Vintage Motorcycle Club in Burton Upon Trent (google for website and contacts) DVLA will accept a certificate from them confirming the date of manufacture for an age related plate. If they haven't already got model year records for that bike, if you can show them proof of the age of manufacture they will then issue a certificate. Proof can be in the form of a chassis number/model chart (available from various Montesa websites) or a catologue sales brochure/picture showing the model when new with the date, or even the confirmation from Sandifords. They are very helpful

What's the definition of 'king'? Lampkin is the most successful. However, he is a way off being the 'best' rider now. That has been Bou for five years, indoor and outdoors. So, if 'king' means most successful, yes he is. If it means best at this time, no he isn't. All depends on what spin you want to put on it.

The primary reason was lack of entries, only 5 teams entered. Maybe there are too many events these days, this date clashed with a PJ1 British bike round, so that accounts for a lot of Pre65 riders. I'd guess many who may have ridden the team trial are following the PJ1 championship. I'm also a bit confused with this year's 'classic' team trial dates as the Lakes MTA cancelled a similar event a couple of weeks ago, although twinshock only, no Pre65. I first saw the Lakes event on the ACU calender at the start of the year but didn't realise it was still going ahead and assumed it had been replaced by the Mansfield Maun event. So not sure why they were both on the calender still with a couple of weeks between them. Historically the Pre65 and Twinshock team events have been run seperately and it would be nice if they could be kept seperate, but obviously it depends upon clubs/centres willing to run them. The twinshock team trial run by the Lakes MTA a couple of years ago was a superb event, as was Congleton's Pre65 event a year or so before and South Birmingham's before that.

It's up to you what you do obviously as it is your bike, but if you put a B25 motor in it there are two main consequences. First, the bike's value will probably go down the pan as if you ever wanted to sell it you have to hope there is someone who wants to buy a hybrid like that. Second is the performance. The Sherpa engine is much better than the B25 and although you have had problems with yours, it is much more reliable and requires much less maintenance. The crank shouldn't have failed because of a quality issue as I'd guess that all the dealers have probably sold the the same kit for years. Perhaps it wasn't assembled corrctly or the engine took in dirt or whatever, but they are reliable as a rule. Not sure what you mean when you say that you've had an exact replica machined (conrod kit?) so I can't imagine what if anything, that may have to do with the 4 stroking. The first thing to do is throw away the triangular silencer. They are fine for appearances on museum pieces but strangle the motor if you are using the bike. If you're not bothered about it looking original put it on ebay. Most people threw them away when the bikes were new. Then take it back on the road and find somewhere to run it near flat out for a while to see if it will burn of any gooey residue that may be in the silencer. That sometimes works wonders for a 2 stroke motor that has got choked up. There are other reasons why it may 4 stroke such as choked up main silencer, choked airfilter, worn carb components or incorrect size jets, points and/or condensor. Try it without the silencer first and take it from there, checking the carb jets/settings and replacing the points and condensor before looking at other possibilities. A long shot is that it may be burning clutch oil through the crank seal(you'll know from white smelly exhaust smoke depending on what oil is in there) which could also cause 4 stroking. Whatever it is, sorting it is going to be a whole lot easier than barstardising the poor thing with a B25 engine.

Hey Paul, I was trying to keep it cheap for you.... I can give you lots of 'budget-busting' ideas... The M150 like Javier's is quite a bit different from the M80 and they are a tighter, more nimble feeling bike. The engine case, forks, swingarm are all standard for that model. Exhuast middle box is not standard - looks like a Miller ? Back box is standard for that model. It is a pity we don't have the Pre72, Pre77 etc classes in the UK but I can just imagine the can of worms if we tried. The M80 is good for Midland Classic events though as they are only supposed to run Pre72 I think.

Can't help with identifying them but is it worth the effort and cost to rebuild them? By the time you have had the springs stripped and repainted, bought new mounting bushes, bought rod seals and bushes, stripped and repainted the bodies, bought the oil, you may have exceeded the cost of a pair of lower priced trials shocks (especially if the rods are rusty? In which case new rods needed or having them reground and hard chromed - more cost) On top of that, they may not be trials shocks and have the wrong spring rate and damping. And you have to get them apart in the first place which could prove a challenge... If you're not riding the bike in serious competition you can buy a pair of NJB Clubman shocks for about £70 or a pair of steel bodied Betors for not much more. Worth thinking about.