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You're right, that looks like a bottom pivot kick lever on the original. I've never seen anything like that.
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Lokks like a later style rear rim, passenger pegs are a nice touch.
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You can certainly learn to negotiate such obstacles but the technique will be somewhat different/modified, so I would say rather than getting hung up on conventional techniques learn to adapt them to your equipment. It can certainly be done.
A seat is generally more of a hindrance for turns and descents than climbs.
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Those don't look like they'ii fit any Bultaco peg mount I ever saw.
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E bikes and EM have advanced quite a bit.
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I think 7 years is a lifetime in e bike years. I would'nt consider it unless it's real cheap and/or I was a tinkerer wanting to buy a bike to update/modify.
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You could look at it two ways. You could get the clutch model and ride it more likeyour KTM, or you could go clutchless and rideit more like your MTB.
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Are you saying the tank was originally porous and lined with another product?
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Forget about an MSO. You'll need to follow your states rules.
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Assuming you're working on a Sherpa T, I think modern pegs in the original high mounts would look hideous. Pursang/Frontera pegs will fit and look original.
I just looked at your earlier posts. Modern, thicker, gaskets in stead of the original paper type, will help with weld clearance on your cases, you may still need to do some grinding though.
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When inspecting gears focus on the dogs on the sides of the gear and the surfaces they engage on adjacent gears.
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There are numerous versions of this tool available.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0472
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Do you know what the secondary voltage is on your two stroke? Shocks from kill buttons used to be common in the rain, fortunately there are better kill buttons availble nowdays.
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Overall they're fine. If you want any specific info you'll need to divulge the year.
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The question rattling around in my head is what happens if you lock the rear wheel without pulling the clutch lever in???
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Has anyone ridden one with the tickover feature that can explain how it works?
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You still haven't. There is no fraction there, it's a decimal point inserted into a decimal value. I've never heard it said that way, I would say 16 ten thousandths.
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Right footpeg is moved back to Trials position, left one is still forward, that's special.
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I have a used alu plate for your bike in Chattaroy, WA. I'm going to look for the peg mounts you asked about tomorrow. I'll send you my phone #.
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Yamaha didn't make a kit to move the pegs back and down, Sammy Miller did, that may be what you have.
I think I may have the Yamaha Peg mounts pictured above, if you're interested I'll dig around and see.
Here's the brake lever you want.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/23X-83922-01-00
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Nothing wrong with doing things the hard way if you prefer but PBI also sells the original dished sprockets in your choice of sizes.
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Are you sure it's not Keich? I assume they supplied the cap to whoever made the tank.
https://www.kelch.com/products/caps-gauges-and-sensors/
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I recommend using the 23x levers you can look them up on a TY350.
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I think your pegs are in the stock position. Yamaha sold a kit to move them forward, which included the brake pedal you have, I think I have a set of them. The aftermarket sold peg mounts that went down and back.
I don't have a TY anymore.
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That is definitely an enduro seat, brake pedal too, looks odd with the Trials peg position (your pegs look good though). That low profile rear tire won't do you any favors when jumping logs.
Bar risers with the forks slid up like that seems counterproductive.
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