motovita

Thanks, I suspected that might be the case. Any chance you ordered, or measured, the bolt diameter?

Can you attribute it to one joint more than others? My lower shock mount is clearly looser than the other linkage pivots.

Has anyone had any success at removing some of the slop in the shock linkage? My 2020 has been loose from day one and I've just been ignoring it, but now that it has some time on it I checked it and found that the bulk of the play is at the bottom shock mount. I suspect the bearing is pretty precise in size and that the play may be coming from the bushings within the bearing. Has anyone replaced the bushings for this reason or perhaps made more precisely fitted bushings? On my old Gas Gas I learned to live with slop but even after years of use it was no looser than my new TRS, also the Gas Gas slop was cumulative with no single primary source of play. I rode a 4RT for years and it never developed the slop of the two Spanish bikes, go figure.

Bonjour, First of all, I hope that you and your family are safe and secured during this very difficult period. At EM company, we have decided to organize a LIVE INSTAGRAM SESSION on SUNDAY, APRIL 5th. 1 session in French with Léo Finiels at 5pm (French time) 1 session in English with me at 6pm (French time) We will present the EM range and answer to all your questions during this LIVE. Feel free to share this information on your social media or invite all your friends that would be interested (see visual below). EM instagram link >> https://www.instagram.com/electricmotion_officiel/ Looking forward to hearing from you on sunday, Best regards,

I share your opinion of mag switches, but they are required for snowmobile racing. I assume they are mandated on Trials bikes as a safety issue for spectators, I see very little chance that they would ever prevent or minimize injury for a rider, and as you suggest they can cause an injurious dead engine crash. It seems many people consider them protection for the engine, personally I find paying for engine repairs preferable to hospital bills.

The E Start X Track only comes with the bigger tank and seat. There are small tank versions on the horizon.

I'll suggest that one of the better mods for an older TRS is the sidestand from the new RR/Gold models. It is so nice not to be fighting to get the bike to stand up every time I get off the bike.

I fived a section yesterday when I foolishly ran my right grip through a bush in a tight turn. The bush grabbed, and applied, my front brake lever and stopped me cold. I may considering cutting one down if nobody comes out with a shorty lever.

Your biggest problems will be finding riding gear that fits and beefing up your suspension for your weight.

I tried an AJP lever and it did function but it didn't feel as smooth when operated. My biggest concern is that the misalignment puts a sideways load on the master cylinder piston which might cause some wear and/or sticking. I don't have a spare Braktec lever so I'm carrying an AJP lever as a spare.

I don't imagine that a radiatior with two threaded holes and a seperat filler cap and pressure relief valve would be cheaper. I'd guess it's done to keep things compact.

Sorry I don't have any advice for straightening levers, but on a related note, is there a shorty lever option for the TRS front brake? That might contribute to fewer bent levers.

I use the 20K tach here https://www.tinytach.com/handheld-tachometers I'm sure there will be some outrage expressed here, claiming that it's too expensive.

Did they mention what the power requirement of that charger is?

Have you located a canadian dealer to sell you one, or confirmed that EM will ship one to Canada?

Is an Astro easier to find than a Metralla? As I recall, when Pursangs first switched to wrong side shift, the rear brake was moved to the right (or wrong) side of the wheel with a two piece rear hub. I would think you might be able to fit a smaller sprocket to that hub.

https://www.totalmotorcycle.com/2020-yamaha-ty-e-electric-trials-bike/

A new slide will likely fix your idle issue.

They might want access to a 2 stroke engine, and of course the Gas Gas gearbox?.

So I suppose they might revert Gas Gas to a Trials only mfg since they probably don't need a third line of 2T enduro bikes.

After the first loop blasting across those fields in top gear my muffler seemed like it was ready to burst into flames, I slowed down after that.

Too high? The octane i mean. Change the fuel already!

Edit I decided that the 5 turns backed off on the clutch springs was pushing my luck. I was getting a little slipping when kickstarting the bike and just wasn't confident that I wouldn't get some slippage when hot so I went in to turn each spring nut in 1/2 turn. I decided to switch up the plate stack to 5 Barnett and 4 steel plates, this required substantial adjustment at the clutch but not beyond it's operating range. I'm happier to have 5 sets of "ears" driving the aluminum clutch basket than just 4. Pull at the lever is noticeably heavier but I can still one finger it. Now I just have to deal with substantial bruising, from kicking myself for putting up with the stock clutch for all those years.

I put it together today with 4 Barnett and 5 Bultaco steel plates. It needed very little change in the adjustment. I backed the spring adjuster nuts off 5 turns from bottomed and have a nice one finger clutch now, I won't be surprised if I have to go back in and tighten them 1/2 turn but for the short test ride they seem to be holding OK. This has got to be the best $40.00 you can spend on a Sherpa T! The bike is transformed and can be ridden much more like a modern bike. Finding neutral is a very simple task now where before I just about had to kill the engine if i wanted to find neutral while stopped.

Due to mechanical ineptitude I have one warped inner (earless) clutch plate in my original all steel clutch pack. If I order Barnett friction discs are they thick enough that I can discard the one problem inner steel plate or do I need a replacement?